Need help with speed density!!!!

XXXX_Big_Daddy_XXXX

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Dec 5, 2011
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I was doing some research on my recent purchase and found this site on accident.GREAT find by the way.Any way I bought a 87 gt.I thought I did good but everyone local,that run stangs, say I'm very limited on what I can do engine wise because I bought a "speed density" car.This is the first ford muscle car I've ever owned.I had no clue there were such large differences between mass air and speed density.I really just wanting to get rid of the car now but i think they may be blowing smoke up my butt.What I'm needing help with is what I CAN do to my car to make it run better.I'm only looking to bump the horsepower to around 300-325 but I have no idea how to mix and match parts to get where I want to be.The whole put these heads and those valves mixed with this cam and crank is all kind of Chinese to me.I'm looking for a list of parts I can buy and what I need to tell the machine shop to do.I am on a budget of around $2,000 which I know probably isn't going to do much.I appreciate all the help and advice I can on what to do,Thanks
 
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What your friends probably didn't tell you is that for a couple of hundred bucks you can convert the car to mass air if you needed to.

Do a couple mass air conversion searches all the info is here (somewhere).

Start by telling us what is done to the car already.
 
well so far the car is bone stock.it came with 7.5 rear end so I did invest in the 8.8 with Richmond 4.10 gears.I also recently had the world class 5 speed rebuilt and bought a king cobra clutch,pressure plate and throw out bearing.Thats it!
 
Speed Density uses Manifold vacuum (MAP), Throttle position (TPS) and RPM, Air Charge Temperature (ACT) & Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) to guess how much air the engine is pulling in. Then it uses all of them to calculate the air/fuel mixture. It is dependent on steady manifold vacuum and minimal changes in airflow from the stock engine configuration to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. Change the airflow or vacuum too much and the computer can't compensate for the changes, and does not run well. Forget about putting a supercharger, turbocharger or monster stroker crank in a Speed Density engine, because the stock computer tune won’t handle it. Every time you seriously change the airflow through the engine, you need a new custom burned chip to make the engine run at peak performance. You are limited to changes in the intake manifold and throttle body. Modified or aftermarket heads, and hot cams do not work well with Speed Density cars. It increases the engine airflow to the point that the computer can no longer compensate for the differences between the stock and modified configuration.

Mass Air uses a Mass Air Flow meter (MAF) to actually measure how much air is being pulled in and uses the inputs from the TPS, ACT, ECT, RPM and Barometric Pressure sensor (Baro) to calculate the proper air/fuel ratio. It is very tolerant of changes in airflow, and vacuum and tolerates wild cams, high flowing heads, and changes in displacement with minimal difficulties. Larger injectors can be used with an aftermarket calibrated MAF or a custom dyno tune. This makes it possible to use the stock computer with engine displacements from 302-408 cu in, and make many modifications without a custom dyno tune chip. Put a new intake manifold on your 331 stroker and the computer figures out how much more fuel to deliver without having to have a new chip burned to accommodate the extra airflow.


MASS air conversion instructions from http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html FREE
A9L (5 Speed) computer from junkyard $100-$150
A9P (Auto or in a pinch, it will work in a 5 Speed car) computer from junkyard $100-$150
70MM MAF from 94-95 Mustang GT - $40-$70
MASS Air wiring harness kit $30-$85

The whole thing is probably less than $300 using junkyard parts.

A9L computers are 5 speed only
A9P computers are automatic, but will work with a 5 speed.


The conversion harness seems to work well for most folks. It avoids the compatibility problems in using a harness from the junkyard. Simple and cheap, actually less work that swapping the wiring harness.
Conversion Harness kits & parts
http://www.mass-air.com/
http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=54


If the idea of moving & soldering wires scares you, here's a list of compatible Mass Air wiring harnesses.

Copied from bbunt302
Just for reference, here's a list of all the compatible years:

89 harness should work for 86-89 as long as you're using mass air.
90 harness will only work in a 90. (B/c of air bags and dual dash connectors)
91 through early 92 harnesses should be compatible (single dash connector, fuel pump relay under driver's seat)
Late 92 through 93 harnesses should be compatible (single dash connector, fuel pump relay under the hood)


Larger MAF to go with Mass Air conversion:
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
Try AutoZone and ask for 81413 - Spectre / 3 in. Aluminum Intake Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter at $12.00. You may have to order it online.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,

Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.

Also see www.forfuelinjection.com for help with the harness parts http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=10, and connector pins, http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=11
 
well so far the car is bone stock.it came with 7.5 rear end so I did invest in the 8.8 with Richmond 4.10 gears.I also recently had the world class 5 speed rebuilt and bought a king cobra clutch,pressure plate and throw out bearing.Thats it!
All '87's (all 5.0's) came with 8.8 (not 7.5) rear, none came with WC 5-spd. 4.10's not the best choice for the 5-spd, but it's your choice.

BTW, you also have the option of the Ford Motorsport Mass Air Conversion Kit.
 
well with mine having a 7.5 rear and a wc tells me somebodys been working on it.I agree with the 4.10 is a little much but I got such a good deal on it I couldn't pass it up.Would a 3.73 be more appropriate?
 
until you change the cam, you can change heads and intake. I made 277RWHP/330RWTQ with the SD computer and a stock cam with Explorer intake and heads and would still have that setup if I had not damaged the cam. I now run a Crower 15511 cam and am still SD but have not been back to the dyno yet.
 
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To keep it simple basically I'm asking what parts can I change and what parts should I not or can't change being speed density.I figure most of you guys are very experienced with mustangs and can help me tremendously.For example I get someone telling me I can change the upper and lower intake,throttle body and heads.Well what are good options for these suggestions?Like gt40 heads,upper and lower intake with?like I said before I am on a budget but what parts and brands are decently priced that could get me close to the goal of 300 hp.Thank you very much for all of the advice I've gotten already.
 
the reason for conversion is I've been told by several people that I can't get 300 horse from a speed density 5.0


Hoooooooooooorse Puckey! :)

If you have roller block that is in decent shape, and are willing to supercharge it, you can make over 300 RWHP all day long.

I used to run 24 lb injectors, an FMU, and supercharger setup that I dialed in with an ajustable boost referenced FPR. Peak HP at the wheels was right around 340.

SD loves boost! If you have a way to tune it (i.e. Quarter horse, TwEECer, PMS or whatever), then the sky is the limit because you can then run different cam profiles and much larger injectors. :wink:
 
outstanding....do they make a SD cam that sounds similar to a E303 that I can pickup as well?

The cam change is what SD in finicky about. An E cam will kill the SD driveability. If you want a cam for SD with the possibility of some "lump", get a good cam supplier to make you one - like Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction - but it ain't cheap ($325-$350). Otherwise leave the SD cam in there - it's not a bad cam.
 
tmoss

Holy crap tmoss... I just saw that you're in SL, MO! I might have to get up with you about some port matching since you're so close.


To OP: I've always been partial to the OEM cam out of the 86.
 
You asked for it...

Cylinder head removal & replacement

Revised 23-Aug-2011 to update parts list and head bolt information.

Plan on 3 days to do the job if you haven't done it before.

Day one gets the heads off in 4-6 hours. Remove the A/C compressor mount bolts and move the compressor out of the way. The A/C compressor swings out of the way without disconnecting any of the lines or losing any refrigerant. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them.

Day two gets all the gasket surfaces scraped off extra clean and the heads dropped off at the machine shop if you are going to have them reconditioned. Time here is another 4-6 hours. Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.

Day three starts when you get the heads back from the machine shop. This is the time to pick up all the little odd pieces you found needing replacement on your day two inspection/cleanup. Plan on 6-8 hours to reinstall the heads and reconnect everything. Plan on an additional 2 hours to troubleshoot/adjust everything.

Now for some practical tips:

Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
FordIntakeTorqueSequence.gif


The bolts are torqued down in a 3 step process.
Step 1 8 ft/lbs
Step 2 16 ft/lbs
Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs

You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor. Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Put some motor oil on them when you put the line back together.

The A/C Compressor comes off with lines still connected. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them. If you have a digital camera, take several pictures.

Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.
Put some cardboard in the lifter valley to help catch the gasket scrapings. Have a shop vacuum handy to suck up the scrapings and any coolant that leaked into the lifter valley.

Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out. Be sure to put a rag or cap in the block where you removed the distributor. It will save you trouble if something falls into the empty distributor hole.

My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface, and on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Whoopee! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

Get a tube of anti-seize and coat all the bolt threads and under the bolt heads. That will help insure even torque when you tighten the manifold bolts. Plan on re-torquing them after a week’s worth of driving

The cylinder head bolts are reusable, but some new ARP bolts are a better plan. Be aware that the ARP bolts have a radiused shank under the bolt head. The ARP washers have a matching radius machined into them. Be sure that the machined radius of the washer is fitted next to the machined radius on the ARP bolt heads. Forget this little fact and you will never get the head bolts to torque down properly.

Coat the underside of all bolt heads with anti seize and the threads of the long bolts. The short bolts thread directly into the water jacket and need a different treatment. Use Teflon Pipe dope on the threads of the short head bolts. It will prevent any coolant seepage from around the threads. You can get the Teflon pipe dope from the hardware stores, Home Depot or Lowes.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3-$4 per kit. The pintle caps fit either injectors with a pin sticking out the injector end or 4 with more tiny holes in the injector end. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( BWD - Home ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

Parts Plus - Premium Auto Parts & Accessories or Auto Value / Bumper to Bumper Quality Parts & Service - Home of the Aftermarket Auto Parts Alliance Group or Tires, Auto Parts Stores, Brakes & Automotive Parts | Pep Boys or Federated Auto Parts - Automotive Aftermarket

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.

Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole,
crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer
on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor
to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing. If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car
runs best. Don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT jumper connector when you set the timing, and plug it back
in when you finish.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

attachment.php


Consumable items:
head gaskets or head gasket kit
Rocker cover gaskets
Upper manifold gasket
Fel Pro 1250 or equal lower manifold gasket set.
Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
2 ft 1/2" heater hose
1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
Blue Silicone sealer
Spray can weather strip adhesive to hold manifold gaskets in place
Acetone or MEK to clean gasket surfaces
1 gallon straight antifreeze (same price as 50/50 mix, but a 90 cent gallon of distilled water makes it 2 gallons at a cheaper price)
1 gallon distilled water
ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
Teflon Pipe dope
4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)

Machine shop charges will vary - figure $275-$350 to have heads checked for cracks, cleaned, surfaced, valves ground, valve guides reconditioned, valve springs checked and bad springs replaced.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
 

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I was at Tmoss's place of employment a few weeks ago, its worth the drive to walk around there!
Big_daddy, I know my Cobra intake bolted right on but now im thinking that the last time I had it off I should have added the heads too.