C-Clips Vs. No C-Clips

[RangerJoe]

Trying to get my rearend built up. I already have a trac-loc 31 spline carrier laying in my garage, FRPP 3.73 gears and FRPP axle girdle . Still have to buy some 31 spline axles. You can see my sig at the bottom. I'm currently estimating 340-350 fwhp and 375-400 fwtq. I will either add a 75-125 shot of nitrous or an aluminum H/C/I upgrade sometime down the road after the rearend and trans upgrades. The car is 99% street driven with about two trips to the track each year. Once upgrades are done, I will be using drag radials. So now you know where I am power wise and usage wise.

Questions are as follows:

1) What are the opinions on eliminating the c-clips for my power levels and goals? Is it really needed?
2) I have read a few different ways to prevent c-clip eliminators from leaking on the street. Has anyone in here had repeated succesful results with preventing leaks? If so, How?
3) If I use c-clip eliminators, or 9 inch ends, can I use regular c-clip axles, or do they requires specific ones?
4) Disc brakes are planned for the future. Are they a legit substitute for eliminators or 9 inch ends?

I have googled this subject to death. I have read different opinions on some of the questions asked, and on others I have found no real answer. So please feel free to give me opinions, but I prefer the be based on actual experiences or first hand knowledge.

Thanks in advance!
Joe

 

[jeffwilson0]

I have c clip eliminators, and only drive it on the street (I bought it that way) and they leaked within a few months of me owning it. I since removed the spool, and replaced it with an frpp center section, new gaskets at the ends of the axle, and now no problems, but it's a sunny day car only for me so it doesn't have lots of miles.

 

[BlackGT89]

The NHRA requires C-Clip Eliminators if your car runs the quarter in under 11 seconds:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/nhra_legal_rules_regulations_time_brackets/
I'm not sure there is a magic HP number. Also if you plan to use your car for some serious corner carving and road courses you should consider them. For a car that is used mostly on the street they sound like more trouble than they are worth, but it in the end it's your call.

 

[Rick 91GT]

If you need axles I'd go 9" ends, it will cost a little bit more up front but it is worth it. The 9" bearing will not leak, c-clip elimin do leak after time no matter how good you are. What you also get is a stronger axle, the 9" end leaves a thicker axle shaft and doesnt neck down at the flange like a c-clip axle will, I can post some pictures if you want to see. The 9" ends now days come with near every pattern so you can use what ever brake system you want, Id do brakes at the same time makes it much much easier. With a 9" end you can narrow the rear up a little as well to add some tire clearance, I reccomend more 9" ends at my shop now for guys who are building the rear for the first time. Its a little extra money but worth every expense.

What ever you do definitly go c-clip elim or 9" ends and prevent the axles from coming out on you if they break, it can do major damage to the car and yourself. If you need some stuff let me know I can save you $$ and supply the right parts.

C-clip axles will work with c-clip elim
non clip axles can work with a c-clip elim IF the right ones are used along with the right eliminator
9" ends have specific axles for the correct set-up.

 

[srtthis]

i agree with what rick says 100% EVERYONE i know running elims has leaks. im going to try and fit having my rear built this winter into my budget and i plan to run 9" ends

 

[RangerJoe]

If you need axles I'd go 9" ends, it will cost a little bit more up front but it is worth it. The 9" bearing will not leak, c-clip elimin do leak after time no matter how good you are. What you also get is a stronger axle, the 9" end leaves a thicker axle shaft and doesnt neck down at the flange like a c-clip axle will, I can post some pictures if you want to see. The 9" ends now days come with near every pattern so you can use what ever brake system you want, Id do brakes at the same time makes it much much easier. With a 9" end you can narrow the rear up a little as well to add some tire clearance, I reccomend more 9" ends at my shop now for guys who are building the rear for the first time. Its a little extra money but worth every expense.

What ever you do definitly go c-clip elim or 9" ends and prevent the axles from coming out on you if they break, it can do major damage to the car and yourself. If you need some stuff let me know I can save you $$ and supply the right parts.

C-clip axles will work with c-clip elim
non clip axles can work with a c-clip elim IF the right ones are used along with the right eliminator
9" ends have specific axles for the correct set-up.

Thanks Rick, and everyone else. Looks like I will go with 9" ends. Rick, it will be a few months before I have all the money, but I will definetly give you a call when it comes time. And thanks for clarifying the special axles needed.

Joe

 

[90lxcoupe]

If you need axles I'd go 9" ends, it will cost a little bit more up front but it is worth it. The 9" bearing will not leak, c-clip elimin do leak after time no matter how good you are. What you also get is a stronger axle, the 9" end leaves a thicker axle shaft and doesnt neck down at the flange like a c-clip axle will, I can post some pictures if you want to see. The 9" ends now days come with near every pattern so you can use what ever brake system you want, Id do brakes at the same time makes it much much easier. With a 9" end you can narrow the rear up a little as well to add some tire clearance, I reccomend more 9" ends at my shop now for guys who are building the rear for the first time. Its a little extra money but worth every expense.

This is definitley the way to go, i did this the second time i did the rear. The first time i bought 31 spline axles, i wasnt very serious about racing the car, and didnt really think much about what would happen if i broke an axle. I went with moser 9'' ends, and narrowed the rear 1/4'' It dosent sound like much but it was just enough to tuck the tire in the wheelwell. Subtle, but really cleans the look up.

Also, if you dont have a set of wheels yet, you could narrow the rear 1-3 inches and buy a 15x10 wheel with less backspacing. The shorter axles will cut down on rotating weight. It wont be a crazy amount, but every little bit adds up. If i didnt already have my wheels i probably would have narrowed the rear 2 1/4'' and run a 15x10 with a 4.5'' backspace.