Engine removal help please

[flashback87]

i am planning on removing my engine this week. my car is a 5 speed. i am planning on getting an explorer motor. the haynbes manual says to detach the engine from the tranny and just remoe the engine.
i have been researching this site anbd other sites and a lot of posts say it is easier to do with the tranny still attached. if i do remove the engine witht he tranny, i am coonfused how i will take the tranny off the engine when it is out of the car and then put it on the explore engine. Can someone explain how this is done?
also, if i remove the engine and tranny together do i only have to remove the drive shaft fromt he tranny or is there other stuff that needs to be removed?
one moe question, i got a hoist but i need to get chains. where do you guys get your chains and what length should i get?
oh, one more sorry, is it really that hard to remove and install the motor without the tranny?

thanks for all the help, this is my first real in depth project on my car and i want to make sure i am well prepared before i do it.

 

[Noobz347]

Whether you pull the motor with or without the tranny is a matter of personal preference mixed with what task(s) you need to do.

Since you're pulling motor and replacing it, I would also imagine you're going to replace the clutch, TOB, and have the flywheel resurfaced... Kinda foolish not to at this point.

If you're pulling the tranny, it goes something like this:

Remove your shifter from inside the car
Set the parking brake
Brake as many drive shaft bolts as you can get too
Jack the back of the car and rotate the wheels so you can to the other drive shaft bolts
Remove Exhaust (except for headers)
Remove the drive shaft
Either Drain or cap the tranny trail so that the fluid doesn't spill all over the damned place (you can use a drive shaft yoke for this... also a good time to replace drive shaft U-Joints if you've never done it)
Disconnect your clutch cable
Disconnect ALL tranny electrical connectors
Disconnect speedo cable
--Pull your motor after doing all necessary prep work

Get some chain from your local hardware store. Ensure that it is both heavy enough to do the job, and not so heavy that you can't the appropriate bolts and hardware through the links to attach to the motor. You might also want a couple chain hooks if you plan to use the OEM engine hangers (I usually just use bolts and washers but it's up to you).

As for chain length... get more than you need. Nothing says you have to put the bolts through the link at the end. Having a little extra length and leaving yourself some options is always a good idea. 3 to 4 feet of chain should be plenty.

If you're not then:

The only portion of installing the motor without the tranny attached that's any harder is just getting the input shaft to align through the clutch and flywheel (which is attached to the motor, of course). Not a biggie HOWEVER... if you installed the clutch and flywheel correctly, using the correct clutch alignment tool then this usually isn't a big hassle. A jack under the tranny to help raise/lower it to help it align usually makes it cake.

If you choose to leave the tranny in the car then BY FAR the easiest way to do this is to remove the 4 tranny bolts that connect it to the bell housing and leave the bell housing attached to the motor for removal. Leave the transmission cross member installed. It can help to loosen the vertical cross member bolts for reinstall. Put the bell housing back on the motor before reinstall (don't forget to replace that Throw Out Bearing, resurface the flywheel, and replace the clutch unless it's like... BRAND NEW).

If you've never done this before, place careful attention to how the TOB is aligned on the clutch fork when you take it apart. This extra 30 seconds to examine the orientation will save you having to create a WTF thread later.

Don't forget that even if you're leaving the tranny in the car, that the clutch cable sill needs to be removed since the bell housing is going with the motor.

Might be a great time to replace the clutch cable if it's never been done. I recommend a 94/95 cable for the extra length. I'll also add that there is NO SUCH THING as a GOOD clutch cable that isn't FORD OEM. Some may argue, but it's been proven time and again that they are smoother, and last longer.

A firewall adjuster and quadrant would be sweet too. You can get the whole kit, cable and all from Maximum Motorsports if you choose to replace those items.

Now... if your transmission is BONE STOCK... then this would be great time to replace INPUT BEARING RETAINER

The OEM retainer is aluminum and is crap.

I think I about covered it. If I missed something, I'm sure someone will come along and add.

 

[ID89GT]

I always leave the trans in. Why go through all the hassle of disconnecting everything off the trans if you dont have to..

 

[flashback87]

Whether you pull the motor with or without the tranny is a matter of personal preference mixed with what task(s) you need to do.

Since you're pulling motor and replacing it, I would also imagine you're going to replace the clutch, TOB, and have the flywheel resurfaced... Kinda foolish not to at this point.

If you're pulling the tranny, it goes something like this:

Remove your shifter from inside the car
Set the parking brake
Brake as many drive shaft bolts as you can get too
Jack the back of the car and rotate the wheels so you can to the other drive shaft bolts
Remove Exhaust (except for headers)
Remove the drive shaft
Either Drain or cap the tranny trail so that the fluid doesn't spill all over the damned place (you can use a drive shaft yoke for this... also a good time to replace drive shaft U-Joints if you've never done it)
Disconnect your clutch cable
Disconnect ALL tranny electrical connectors
Disconnect speedo cable
--Pull your motor after doing all necessary prep work

Get some chain from your local hardware store. Ensure that it is both heavy enough to do the job, and not so heavy that you can't the appropriate bolts and hardware through the links to attach to the motor. You might also want a couple chain hooks if you plan to use the OEM engine hangers (I usually just use bolts and washers but it's up to you).

As for chain length... get more than you need. Nothing says you have to put the bolts through the link at the end. Having a little extra length and leaving yourself some options is always a good idea. 3 to 4 feet of chain should be plenty.

If you're not then:

The only portion of installing the motor without the tranny attached that's any harder is just getting the input shaft to align through the clutch and flywheel (which is attached to the motor, of course). Not a biggie HOWEVER... if you installed the clutch and flywheel correctly, using the correct clutch alignment tool then this usually isn't a big hassle. A jack under the tranny to help raise/lower it to help it align usually makes it cake.

If you choose to leave the tranny in the car then BY FAR the easiest way to do this is to remove the 4 tranny bolts that connect it to the bell housing and leave the bell housing attached to the motor for removal. Leave the transmission cross member installed. It can help to loosen the vertical cross member bolts for reinstall. Put the bell housing back on the motor before reinstall (don't forget to replace that Throw Out Bearing, resurface the flywheel, and replace the clutch unless it's like... BRAND NEW).

If you've never done this before, place careful attention to how the TOB is aligned on the clutch fork when you take it apart. This extra 30 seconds to examine the orientation will save you having to create a WTF thread later.

Don't forget that even if you're leaving the tranny in the car, that the clutch cable sill needs to be removed since the bell housing is going with the motor.

Might be a great time to replace the clutch cable if it's never been done. I recommend a 94/95 cable for the extra length. I'll also add that there is NO SUCH THING as a GOOD clutch cable that isn't FORD OEM. Some may argue, but it's been proven time and again that they are smoother, and last longer.

A firewall adjuster and quadrant would be sweet too. You can get the whole kit, cable and all from Maximum Motorsports if you choose to replace those items.

Now... if your transmission is BONE STOCK... then this would be great time to replace INPUT BEARING RETAINER

The OEM retainer is aluminum and is crap.

I think I about covered it. If I missed something, I'm sure someone will come along and add.

great info, thanks!!!!!! i think as of now i am going to just leave the tranny in the car. i am hoping you can clarify removing the bellhousing with the motor. my haynes manual says to remove the tranny to engine block bolts and then remove the engine. can you please explain the difference between what the haynes manual says and removing the engine with the bellhousing?

thanks a lot! i'm glad this is just a hobby/toy just in case i ruin something

 

[ID89GT]

Removing the bell housing is easy because you only have 4 bolts and they are fairly easy to get to. I've never done it that way myself, would be more trouble then its worth tryin to get the input shaft through the throw out bearing and the pilot bearing at the same time..

 

[stdyhand]

If it were me I'd leave the transmission attached. No matter what your plans are with the transmission, it would be a good time to inspect things while the transmission is out. I'll be pulling my engine and tranny in a month or two. I need to rebuild my transmission and I am wanting to shave the engine bay while I'm at it and hide some wires.

You might consider hiding some wires while the engine is out. It's much easier to do with the engine out.

 

[Noobz347]

great info, thanks!!!!!! i think as of now i am going to just leave the tranny in the car. i am hoping you can clarify removing the bellhousing with the motor. my haynes manual says to remove the tranny to engine block bolts and then remove the engine. can you please explain the difference between what the haynes manual says and removing the engine with the bellhousing?

thanks a lot! i'm glad this is just a hobby/toy just in case i ruin something

Removing the bell housing is easy because you only have 4 bolts and they are fairly easy to get to. I've never done it that way myself, would be more trouble then its worth tryin to get the input shaft through the throw out bearing and the pilot bearing at the same time..

ID98GT is correct.... I'll explain:

When removing the motor from the car, there are only 4 easy access bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing. Remove those 4 bolts and leave the bell housing attached to the motor when you pull it.

Now... there's two ways to put it back together. You can bolt the bell housing to the transmission then reinstall the motor

--or--

You can bolt the bell housing back to the motor and feed the motor and bell housing over the input shaft splines of the transmission (this is the method I prefer).
Care has to be taken when you do it this way because the throwout bearing and clutch fork are already installed in the bell housing. This is why I use a jack under the tranny, to get it aligned. You have to feed the tranny splines through the throwout bearing and then through the clutch plate and flywheel.

The reason I prefer this method is because you don't have to bent, twist, and hold your tongue just right to get the top bolts of the bell housing reinstalled. With the motor in the way, they are partially concealed between the motor and firewall. It can be done though. Last time I installed this way, I used some really long 3/8 in extensions and a swivel socket to get to them.

I've found that if you are patient when lining up the motor to the tranny (bell housing already installed on the motor) that once it's lined up, you have just those 4 tranny bolts to fasten it all together.


When you go to take the motor apart/out, get a good look at the bell housing bolts and form your plan for how you want to put it back together. Neither method is incorrect and both take some finesse. I use blue loctite on damned near everything and it's a lot easier to get the loctite onto bolts that you can see when you put them in... so I normally attach the bell housing to the motor first.

If you choose this method then DON'T FORGET: Apply a light... VERY LIGHT coat of high temp bearing grease to the input bearing shaft before trying to line it all up for install.

IF you happen to knock the TOB off the fork during the install, then you'll have to back the motor out, reseat the bearing, and start over.

 

[trbkrb]

Good write ups guys! I will be pulling my motor for the first time next year and also probably replacing it with an Explorer motor. Coincidentally, I need to replace my clutch too as it started slipping before I blew the motor. I've replaced the clutch a good 5 or 6 times over my 306,000 miles, so I know that part pretty well, but the additional info is helpful. One thing I can add, if you don't pull the trans too, make sure you have the splines lined up and that the input shaft is sliding in fairly easily, don't force the trans onto the bellhousing with just the 4 bolts as some have broken off the tabs because it did not slide on easily.

Good luck with it.

 

[flashback87]

thanks guys, great info. i think i changed my mind and i'm going to pull the tranny too but i have a quick question. i had the front of my car jacked up, shifter was in 2nd gear, and i had bricks behind the rear tires. when i drained the transmission fluid i forgot the put the car in neutral so i took it out of 2nd and into neutral when the tranny fluid was out of the transmission.

do you think this damaged the tranny or am i just worrying?

thanks for all the help.

 

[jrichker]

Engine removal tips:
The engine will come out, and that is the easy part. It becomes obvious if you need to disconnect or move something. Putting it back together three weeks or three months later is a different story. You will have forgotten many small but important details.

A word of wisdom: tag every wire you disconnect and tag the place you disconnected it from with an identical tag. If you take the time to note the wire colors on the tags for the body mounted items, it will be a foolproof method of keeping track of what plugs into what. Number the tags so that you know if one is missing. Do the same thing for the vacuum lines.

Put all the bolts from each item you remove (starter, alternator, smog pump, etc.) in a separate zip bag and put a piece of paper inside the bag with the number of bolts, their sizes and the item they went to. Then you can throw the zip bagged bolts in a 5 gallon plastic pail and still keep up with them. Zip bag each of the small items and put a piece of paper inside identifying the item and where it goes.

Some removal tips...
Unbolt the headers from the engine, but keep the funny looking plates bolted to the head exhaust flanges. They are useful as lifting ears to attach the hoist chain. Do not use bolts threaded into the aluminum intake manifold to lift the engine

You will need to disconnect the headers from the H pipe and the H pipe from the mufflers. This will be one of your big challenges. The bolts are usually rusted enough to require application of PB Blaster and extreme force. Soak the bolts with PB Blaster and let them sit overnight if possible. Buy a thick walled 6 point socket to attack the header and H pipe bolts. Depending on who was the last person to remove the nuts and bolts, they are either 11/16" or 5/8" heads. Be prepared to apply a propane torch to the nuts if they threaten to round off even with a 6 point socket.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. This will prevent sparks and short circuit damage if you ground out something electrical while removing it.
Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.


5 speed transmission cars:
Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.

Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle

Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 86-95 5.0 Mustang wiring
Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 5.0 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg[/url] Vacuum Diagram 87-93 Mustangs The diagram says 88 Mustang, but except for the vacuum line connected to the MAP/Baro sensor, it is the same for all 5.0 Mustangs from 87-93. The 89-93 Mustangs vent the MAP/Baro sensor to open air. http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88Stang5.0Vacuum.gif HVAC vacuum diagram http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif TFI module differences & pinout http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif Fuse box layout http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif[/url][/COLOR][/FONT][/FONT][/COLOR]