302 build help

  • Sponsors (?)


Ok, i know its different then before i went up to the local junk yard and found a 1995 ford F150 EFI 5.0 complete everything.. someone took the tranny out and the engine is just sitting in there by the engine mounts and someone took the computer and wire harniss so it will be a snap to pull "they have a tractor with a boom on it and let people use it" its got all acceries still on the motor, but the throttle plate is missing, thats the only thing gone off the engine keeping it from being a runner " I have a 1995 ford f150 efi 5.0 right now so i know what it looks like lol" the engine is clean and has no oil what so ever on it, the valve covers are spotless and look brand new compaired to the ones on my truck altho it dont leak oil either, but after thinking hard about it, i dont want the wiring, i want no computer to mess with so straight carb and a duraspark ignition with a msd box "it is all there right now as far as dizzy" so i want to remove the EFI system and put a intake and carb on ii could use some of the parts on my truck like heads and everything since its the same truck and motor just different paint job.. this truck is red and mine is a dark blue/green the motor is $100. any difference between 95 mustang efi 5.0's and 95 f150 truck efi 5.0's? "i will take it apart and have it machined so i know whats in it and get a good cam and check the lifters, if they are good i'll keep them, but for $100 i dont think i could go wrong with a complete engine
 
Ok, i know its different then before i went up to the local junk yard and found a 1995 ford F150 EFI 5.0 complete everything.. someone took the tranny out and the engine is just sitting in there by the engine mounts and someone took the computer and wire harniss so it will be a snap to pull "they have a tractor with a boom on it and let people use it" its got all acceries still on the motor, but the throttle plate is missing, thats the only thing gone off the engine keeping it from being a runner " I have a 1995 ford f150 efi 5.0 right now so i know what it looks like lol" the engine is clean and has no oil what so ever on it, the valve covers are spotless and look brand new compaired to the ones on my truck altho it dont leak oil either, but after thinking hard about it, i dont want the wiring, i want no computer to mess with so straight carb and a duraspark ignition with a msd box "it is all there right now as far as dizzy" so i want to remove the EFI system and put a intake and carb on ii could use some of the parts on my truck like heads and everything since its the same truck and motor just different paint job.. this truck is red and mine is a dark blue/green the motor is $100. any difference between 95 mustang efi 5.0's and 95 f150 truck efi 5.0's? "i will take it apart and have it machined so i know whats in it and get a good cam and check the lifters, if they are good i'll keep them, but for $100 i dont think i could go wrong with a complete engine

i almost forgot.. yes it is a Roller Motor "same as the one i have in my pickup stated before" and it is the E7TE Heads, are they good to keep if i block the rear exhaust EGR passage?
 
Yeah, they'll be fine to use...they're the same heads as what came on 87-95 mustangs not counting cobras. You mentioned wanting something similar to an RV cam-so you just want a little more torque and basically stock idle?
 
Yeah, they'll be fine to use...they're the same heads as what came on 87-95 mustangs not counting cobras. You mentioned wanting something similar to an RV cam-so you just want a little more torque and basically stock idle?
well i was looking for a little bit of a gas saver... lol my mustang before got around 20 mpg at 70mph on the interstate, i was looking for around 18 mpg atleast but with good low end torque since torque is better fuel mileage, i love that wicked lope but i was told i would want to stay under/around 270 on cam durration for better fuel mileage,?? so not sure but i was thinking maybe a F303 cam since its a roller motor but it will be carburated, and better then a E303, i love the megathumper but i know thats gotta drink up the fuel, i was going dual exhuast with flowmasters super 10 single camber mufflers on each side with a H pipe.. my mustang never had a H or X in the pipe it was just true dual straights and ran awesomely great, is there a big difference in H piping the exhuast or not? i figure $100 for the engine with a rebuild kit, bored 0.30 over with a F303 cam weiand highrise intake with a elderbrock 600-650cfm carb with the msd box duraspark dizzy and a set of headers, and some head work on the E7TE's it should make what.. atleast 375hp maybe? " i really want 400hp lol"
 
My supercharged 5.0 with a Lunati 51014 cam, long tube headers, T-5, and 3.73s made 20-22 on the highway...12-14 in town. The biggest thing that eats the fuel is your right foot. Carbed likely won't get as good mileage on the highway unless you're really good with the tuning. The best I could get out of mine before I went EFI was about 16-17. If you want the mileage to be near 20 or more, then you'll do well to get an overdrive trans. The alphabet cams really aren't that great to be perfectly honest though. If you want 400 flywheel hp (fwhp), and that's your goal, you're gonna have to get some serious work done to those heads (portwork on iron heads is not cheap unless you "know" someone), or just get a set of aftermarket heads...the E7s can be worked, but by the time you spent all the money for portwork and new parts to get them there, you'd spend enough to buy a set of Trick Flow Twisted Wedges which, with the right cam and induction would reach your 400fwhp goal without portwork...but, if you want 400 rwhp, you better start looking toward either a power adder or spinning that sucker near or over 7k...especially if you want to stay 302 cubes. There are other considerations that I'm not taking into account here...like valvetrain-the factory rockers really don't do you any favors...factory exhaust pieces are bulky and restrictive, etc.

H or X pipe will help scavenge the exhaust and give you better balance and torque than straight pipes...and it'll sound different. The Weiand Stealth is a great intake to the best of my knowledge, but if you're looking at getting near 400hp, then you might wanna think about a single plane intake-they typically make more power up top, and don't suffer from the mixture distribution issues that dual planes sometimes do. Edelbrock 600 is a decent carb, but not as tunable as a Holley 4150 series (Edelbrock does not make a 650...only 600, 750, and I believe they make an 800 or 850). Also, it probably wouldn't support your end power goals.

It sounds like you haven't quite nailed down what all you want out of the engine, or out of the car. If you want 20+ mpg, and 400fwhp, I'd really urge you to consider going the EFI route. If you are willing to sacrifice the power goal for the mileage, and keep the carb, then just keep the factory cam, or find something split pattern like the Lunati I mentioned, or something similar. If you could [still] get that Explorer engine you mentioned before, that would be a great way to make some decent power and get good mileage. And, the GT40P heads are significantly better than the E7 heads on that '95 F150.
 
lol true about the heads,, i guess i need to just get the car driving for now and then get a $1200 set of heads :O_o: i thought about the explorer engine but its $600, i can get the 95 roller 302 for $100 and find a set of GT40's on ebay for $200, only be in $350 "$50 for shipping" or just keep looking in the junk yards, they sell it for scrap price not what the name of them are where i am from lol btw,. at the same place i found this 302.. there was another block sitting in a truck just across from it, it was a 95 f250 with a roller motor in it that had the heads and intake missing. i wrote the numbers off the engine down and was a F4TE block with roller lifters in it, "still in the block" and i looked it up, its a 351W roller motor.. is it worth building that? i figure it'd be alot worse on fuel like a chevy 350 would be, any thoughts on that? i can pick the block up for about $75, the pistons look awesome and the cylinder walls look awesome, no marks or wear spots still see the factory hone marks, the lowerend of the motor and timing cover so on is all there even the oil filter, the only thing is the heads and intake are gone. the dizzy is even still there on the fender
 
351W's are great motors. they put down awesome hp/torque and they have been known to last about forever.

If I were in your shoes, I would grab that 351, tear down the bottom end and inspect it (bearings, main caps, rods, piston rings, etc.), throw on a set of Victor Jr's and an Edelbrock 750, slide it all in and peel rubber.

I originally hated the idea of a 351 over a 302 because I thought it weighed tons more.
Come to find out, it's only about 50 lbs. heavier. Relocate the battery to the trunk and a set of aluminum heads in the future, it will feel like a stock 5.0 with alot more grunt to it.

Definately what is happening to mine before too long.
 
oh ok, thats cool. so i might just end up getting both then.. since like i said i have the same motor and year in my 95 pickup i can always take time to rebuild that 302 block and then swap it with the one in my truck so it has no down time because my pickup "95 f150 roller 302 with 255,899 miles on it" 2wd xlt super cab is my daily work truck 200 miles a week, 40 miles perday round trip. btw i get 19-20 mpg right now with this truck driving 60mph and a few small towns to go through it also has the 4W70R i guess its called.. tranny in it. the motor is beginning to smoke and have lifter rattle when started cold, at least i think its lifters lol! anyways i think for $100 i couldnt loose on it, the junk yard man said it would bring $100 in scrap price thats why he was selling me the complete motor for $100. so $175 i could have a 95 roller complete 302 and a 95 shortblock roller 351W,
the 351w heads are bigger aint they? i guess thats something else i need to look into now lol i will pick both up in the morning
 
after thinking about it and looking up engine kits for a shortblock i think i will go the 351w, it would be a more beefy hp torque and sound, but just with fuel mileage in mind.. the car does only weigh 2400-2600lbs so i guess it all depends on the foot too.. i found where i could still use good 302 heads, i could always use the E7TE's to get it going and just upgrade when the money is right
, northern auto parts has a complete engine block rebuild kit and gasketset for $702. and thats with out the engine work,, i need to get the engine's and then just call my machine shop man, cause i can get the 302 worked over and the engine kit plus have the heads worked over for $725-$750 :O_o: so maybe he can work a deal in for the kit and a bore 30 over, how much hp does a 30 bore give and is it worth it? from what i noticed the 351 bores look perfect.. but theres "always" the chance, i guess it should be checked for cracks n so on. ugh, such a busy mind i have so much going on in there i dont know what i really want! lol. i guess if i rebuilt the 351 i'll do more searching,,,
i came across this.... on corral.net

"351w F4TE roller block,crank and rods"

I have a very nice 351w F4TE roller block,crank and rods for sale. All parts are in nice shape. NO SHIPPING on the block or crank! Local pick up only. Asking $500 for everything,or will separate. Thanks.


F4TE '95 351w roller block. Just back from machine shop:hot tanked,honed(standard bore),new cam bearings,new freeze plugs. $350

stock '95 351w crank,just polished(std mains/std rods) $100

stock '95 351w rods,just installed brand new ARP bolts and resized $150

If you buy the complete setup,the factory cast pistons,new main/rod bearings will also be included for the $500 asking price. Will just need a set of rings and oil pump to make a complete shortblock. """


at my junkyard i can get the whole complete short block right now for $75 so i dont think im in bad shape! lol it'd be worth just to get it.
 
man what a bummer, turns out i dont think that short block was a 351w, it looks like a 302.. i took the little metal retainer off the roller lifters and it dont say if its a 302 or a 351, it just says Ford,
any how.. i bought that roller short block and the complete 302 roller motor with a 4r70w tranny that has been rebuilt not long ago "markings inside the bell housing" and has all new control modules on it from the complete 302 motor "its a set" all for $200, i cant be in that bad. :) its a win win still in my book