i figured before i buy a rack and pinion id ask yall here a few things first im sure the people here can and itd be much appreciated. i have a leaky powersteering system, ive debated about updating for the few years ive had my car. and now its gonna be a dd for me finally so i wanna make it nice. so im wondering ill be honest i dont make enough to put out for a r&p kit only 21. but i can fab just about anything. so im wondering what type r&p could i buy to make a kit for my car. i was thinking about getting a 1980-1993 Mustang Rack & Pinion with a lifetime warranty from ebay and install in my car. i know these specific ones have been used in our style cars. im curios what id need to use this though and or suggestions. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...ord|Model:Mustang&vxp=mtr&hash=item2ea4e1a783
r&p on 65 coupe questions
- Thread starter true65mustang
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If you try to use a late rack on a 65, the steering will be backwards, turn left, you'll go right! Your steering arms are to the rear, the steering linkage is to the rear of the axle. MII and later racks mount to the front of the axle. Your steering and brakes are the most critical components on a car, steering can be fab'd up, but best to leave it to the pro's. There are a number of kits on the market for an early model, but whatever you do, remember there will be issues with headers, clutch linkage and steering columns. If you are dead set against buying a kit, many of the kits are based on a rack used in a GM J code car. Take a look at Randall Racks. Also look at what Unisteer has to offer, but stay away from their early R&P, the steering shaft is a real challenge
PoppyMod
Member
I'll add, there is a "ton" of opinions. Do the research, I did. I'm running a manual R&P, but that's me.
Do The Research!
Do The Research!
i didnt think about that, so your saying that a j code gm r&p would be more what i need to look for to get what i need. im pretty good at fab work, i wanna change my exhaust to as well to a 3" system and new headers as well. i just think 1,400 plus for r&p is stupid yes i know our cars didnt come with them but still a replacment for come cars with a lifetime warantee is only 185 with power
PoppyMod
Member
Yo bud,
So what's up with the 3" exhaust? What engine mods do you have that requires a 3" exhaust. Not to mention a "bunch" of clearance issues. Two point five is about the max for a street warrior.
Happy Trails!
3" exhaust is pretty much overkill on any street driven small block. Regardless of what you believe, have read or someone told you, an engine does need some back pressure or it loses torque. It's been a long time since we bought pump gas that would safely run a 12.5 to 1 engine, and that's what you need, plus big heads and a lot of camshaft before needing 3" exhaust. Today you see lots of new pickups running around with too large of an exhaust system, all they are doing is making lots of noise that, in my opinion sounds bad, doesn't gain a thing in power, usually the opposite.
As far as the R&P it is a lot of work, even if you had a kit. The J car rack is just a start, you still have to locate it exactly so that you don't end up with a bump steer situation. Then believe me, I've done it, the steering shaft from the rack to your column has to snake thru your headers/manifolds and won't fit a standard clutch equalizer bar if you have a stick car, so then you are going to a cable or hydraulic clutch linkage. Your existing p/s pump is a lower pressure system than the rack needs, so you building brackets for a pump that will work, and the list goes on and on. When you are all done, you still have a car with a very antiquated front suspension. The R&P is a neat idea, and the reason it is expensive is that the guy that makes the kit spent a lot of money and many, many hours of R&D before he got it right. As I mentioned, stay clear of the early design Unisteer manual system, they didn't get it right and many that were sold were returned because the steering shaft/u joints wouldn't work out without binding. Flaming Rivers first system had so much bump steer the car was unsafe.
Personally I have installed one manual R&P, at the same time I installed a RRS brand strut suspension, total cost was about $3K! Yes, the car, a 65 convertible, drove and handled better than stock, but wouldn't begin to compete with a new Mustang. Since this was a customer's car, I did what he wanted, I would not do it for myself.
As far as the R&P it is a lot of work, even if you had a kit. The J car rack is just a start, you still have to locate it exactly so that you don't end up with a bump steer situation. Then believe me, I've done it, the steering shaft from the rack to your column has to snake thru your headers/manifolds and won't fit a standard clutch equalizer bar if you have a stick car, so then you are going to a cable or hydraulic clutch linkage. Your existing p/s pump is a lower pressure system than the rack needs, so you building brackets for a pump that will work, and the list goes on and on. When you are all done, you still have a car with a very antiquated front suspension. The R&P is a neat idea, and the reason it is expensive is that the guy that makes the kit spent a lot of money and many, many hours of R&D before he got it right. As I mentioned, stay clear of the early design Unisteer manual system, they didn't get it right and many that were sold were returned because the steering shaft/u joints wouldn't work out without binding. Flaming Rivers first system had so much bump steer the car was unsafe.
Personally I have installed one manual R&P, at the same time I installed a RRS brand strut suspension, total cost was about $3K! Yes, the car, a 65 convertible, drove and handled better than stock, but wouldn't begin to compete with a new Mustang. Since this was a customer's car, I did what he wanted, I would not do it for myself.
65wildstang
Member
Unless your making 600+ hp. The 3" exhaust will compromise the torque of your motor as ihadagt500 quoted. Do some research on the web also for a r&p system and check your options out. The research might give you some ideas you can play around with before you start cutting and welding to try and make something work. Good Luck
ive done 3" a couple times sounds awsome, runs good it has lots power. i dunno why i really need a 3" just been told by mustang ranch people that were at the parts 4 plus car show yesterday that it makes our ponys nice. i have my 64 1/2 coupe stock air and powersteering. it has 289 bored 30+ over stock 351w. has relived stock heads stroked cam performer manifold 750 cfm edelbrock electric choke with a c4 automatic flowmaster 2" system stock exhaust manifold which im upgrading i was told that jba shorties are good any ideas?
65wildstang
Member
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