Steering box slop

robbz28

Member
Sep 23, 2009
775
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Epps, LA
I have been driving my 67 around for the past couple of months since I got it all back on the road and I didn't spend any time and or money on the steering box (I had plans to put either a borgeson or a rack under it) But my funds have dwindled as they tend to do and I have a good bit of slack in my steering wheel (maybe more). I know that tightening up the mesh on the steering box can help this out, but I also know if you don't adjust that sucker right you can bind the mesh and snap the worm gear. Any advice? Leave it alone? Maybe just tighten on it until I have just a little bit of slack? I Really don't want to spend any money because I am trying to save up to do the steering conversion. (also some of this slack im certain is in the idlers, but I know the box has a significant amount of play in it as well). The rod ends feel tight, I think the PO replaced them not too long ago.
Any help is appreciated..

And PS. to those of yall that read my carburetor tuning issue....it was 90% timing, my dumb-a$$ forgot that I had loosened the distributor to remove my water neck and forgot to set it with a light afterward...runs like a champ now.
 
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fwiw .... I did just that many, many years ago (circa 1975) .... I had excessive "play" in the wheel and tightened up the mesh screw just enough to get most of the slop out -- but not all of it .... improved but not perfect .... lately I've replaced the box and rag joint .... speaking of the rag joint, you may want to look into that for slop ..... if you have one that is .... does this help ??
 
No rag joint, got one of those good old 67's that will stab you in the event of a head on collision. I have had my wrench on the nut to give it a little adjustment, but just wanted to ask some folks first. Thanks
 
I adjusted my 65 box and it`s working pretty good now, that was about 4 years ago. When you tighten after you can almost feel when its far enough, it`ll snug up a little, stop right there.
 
I had the same slop when I bought my '67, had 1" play each direction at the steering wheel. I replaced all the suspension, 1" shelby drop and steering. This took out only 1/4" of play and I was disappointed but then realized that the alignment shop didn't know what they were doing and I didn't get the full benefit of the new parts.

About 6 mos. later I marked the adjustment screw and removed the gearbox cover, cleaned out all the 40+yr. old grease and repacked with fresh Ford spec grease. Reinstalled the cover and made a slght adjustment. This took out 1/2" of play and I think most of it was due to the new grease. I had over adjusted a box on an S10 yrs. ago and it wouldn't return to center after a turn so I learned on that box how to feel the resistance.

I have since had the stock box rebuilt by Stanger as it was in great shape being a PS box. I also had him convert it to a rag joing box with a '69 output shaft and installed a '68 column to get rid of the spear-o-matic. I haven't driven it in 3yrs. due to full rebuild but expect it to be as tight if not tighter than before teardown.
Jon
 
I think before going through a new box and links and whatnot I will probably just convert it to borgeson or a rack (still don't know which one I want to do) But i have that job tied into the t-5 swap I have planned, heck i might put it all off until i can put a hotter engine in it, the 289 is peppy, but will barely make 1 tire fire....but i sure do love it when EVERY time i bump that starter she purrs like a kitten.
 
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