Does anyone remember this D-bag?

  • Thread starter Deleted member 38176
  • Start date
Status
Not open for further replies.
Good news is if an srt8 dodge rolls up on you, you wont have to worry about it on motor as long as its not a 2012...

I dynod about 16 dodges in a row one sat for a dodge club and the highest horespowrr of the day was a bolt on, long tube equipped and tuned srt8 charger and it only put down 327 to the wheels....so when it comes to srt8, dont be scurred

LOL I used the SRT8 analogy because there's a guy who lives a block away from me with one (non 2012) and we run into each other quite a bit. He always tries to mess with me and I gave in once, running him from about 15-60 or so. I had a car on him to about 55 when he started to slowly reel me in (which is why I shut down lol). It wasn't very impressive.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


It's ok to fix up a gt like that. I personally like it since you can see different parts that really accentuate the mustang exterior. I understand when you can't afford a cobra, but when you drop over 4k in paint alone and talk about painting it again, just buy a cobra or be happy with what you have. Changing parts with labor and paint, and wheels around constantly is very expensive.
 
I wonder how I would be treated if I took my 01' V-6 and made it look like a Cobra? :shrug:

Not that I would do such a thing:rolleyes:

Buddy of mine in our home town here has done just that with all oem parts. Only thing is, he wanted to go a different route and it's a fully built, forged and stroked 4.3. He also has a SC sittin on the shelf. People won't know what hit em as hell be about even with a fully bolt on slowbra and be about 500 lbs lighter.....

Different strokes.
 
Amy other options? Bottle warmer? Window switch? What kind of tune did you run?

I ran a MSD digital window switch, NX purge, Dyno Tune bottle heater, Autometer electric bottle pressure gauge, and a Speed of Sound cup holder switch panel.

As for the tune, I was pulling 2 degree's out of the STOCK tune for a 150 shot, and ran the stock tune on a 100 shot, running 93 octane in the tank. I can not emphasize enough that you must run/pull timing out of the stock 87 octane tune and not the 93 octane tune.

Lastly, put drag radials on your car. My car would blow the tires off in 2nd gear at any rpm. Once I put the 4.10's in, it would spin pretty good in 3rd gear. Once I put DR's on it tho, it was game time.
 
As for the tune, I was pulling 2 degree's out of the STOCK tune for a 150 shot, and ran the stock tune on a 100 shot, running 93 octane in the tank. I can not emphasize enough that you must run/pull timing out of the stock 87 octane tune and not the 93 octane tune.

How did you run your tunes? I'm assuming that you only sprayed at the track and therefor tuned the car with a handheld befor heading out or did you run the nitrous tune all the time?
 
I kept it on the nitrous tune all the time. I sprayed mine a lot on the streets and knew I would forget the N/A tune was in it if I left it in there. And yes I had a hand held.

Your car with a 125-150 shot and a 2800-3200 converter would be nasty. Easy mid 11 second car on slicks.
 
I kept it on the nitrous tune all the time. I sprayed mine a lot on the streets and knew I would forget the N/A tune was in it if I left it in there. And yes I had a hand held.

Your car with a 125-150 shot and a 2800-3200 converter would be nasty. Easy mid 11 second car on slicks.

Am I researching right in that I can get a hand held tuner and have various tunes in it? I would like street, n/a strip tune, and nitrous tune. I don't plan on spraying on the street. I am in my mid 30's, spent my twenties messing around on the street and got in lots of trouble. It sucks when you live in an area where the cops just go to your house and wait lol.

Also, I am trying to pull a second set of rear rims and tires for the track. I still have my 18x9 bullits. How would those work, or should I stay with a 10.5?
 
Lol, yeah that would definitely suck for them to know where you live.

I don't think you can store various tunes in a tuner. If your getting it dyno tuned, just get a flip chip and have the numerous tunes made. If you are running base tunes out of your hand held, just add/subtract fuel/timing thru it when you want to switch it up.

If your wanting some track only wheels, you really need to get some 15x3.5 or 15x4's up front and 15x8 or 15x10's out back with a 26" slick or 275/50/15 drag radial. For track wheels, you want a lightweight wheel. Also, you want something with a good size sidewall. A 18" wheel will work, but if you put a set of lightweight 15" wheels on it, it would be significantly faster.

Here is a little food for thought. 1 pound of rolling weight is equal to 4 pounds of "dead" weight. In other words, if your race wheels and tires were a total of 10 pounds lighter than your other wheels, that would be the equivalent of shedding 40 pounds out of your car. The general rule is 100 pounds will shave off 1 tenth off your quarter mile. My full set of Bogart wheels with tires was lighter than 2 of my stock 17" bullets with tires. Just something to think about.
 
Exactly. It's not hard to outrun 03/04 cobra's. My black nitrous 2v would have walked my supercharged 96 cobra like a dog. In my black 02, it had gears, good suspension, a little weight reduction, a little nitrous, and I could drive the **** out of it. I walked every ported/pullied eaton around my town. I've seen my buddy Jerry (ARCANGL) walk a pullied cobra with him on motor.

Doesn't matter how much hp you make if you can't drive. Lotta those guys don't understand that.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.