1961Mustang
Banned
I'm not as optimistic as the other guys. Here's how I see it:
190-200 rwhp stock
+ 1.bbk shorty headers = 200-210
+ 2.f303 cam = 205-220
+ 3.gt40 upper & lower intake = 215-235
+ 4.cold air intake = 220-240
+ 5.73mm c&l maf = 225-245
+ 6.msd coil = -
+ 7.msd cap = -
+ 8.underdrive pulleys = 235-255
+ 9.shorty shifter = -
+ 10.3.73 gears = -
+ 11.worked e7 heads = (without details, this is meaningless... My biggest questions would be what size are the valves, and how much compression, unless you have actual flow charts for the heads)
+ 12.stage 3 clutch = -
+ 13.65mm throttle body = 240-260
+ 14.rebuilt motor = -
So there you have it, 240-260 rwhp. Honestly, I would lean towards the low end unless the worked heads are a real performance improvement. Oh yeah, and 110mph in the 1/4 is bull. It's possible to do with those heads, but not unless you're sandbagging and know a hell of a lot more than you're letting on. Where is that number coming from, a G-tech pro or something the previous owner told you? If that's a spec stage 3 clutch, it's serious over kill on your combo. Someone probably wouldn't put a clutch like that on your car unless they were running a decent shot of nitrous, or were planning to do a lot more to the car in the future.
Fast driver, you are right on the money. I had a car with the exact same mods, only difference was I had stock heads milled a bit for higher compression, and a custom tune from Paul's in Jackson mi. It made 279 rwhp on his dyno. I believe if you took your car and got a nice tune, you would get pretty close to 300 rwhp. Keep in mind factory figures are taken from an engine dyno, and depending on transmission and driveline components, you'll lose anywhere between 40-75 horsepower.