Wanna know how much horsepower I have

I'm not as optimistic as the other guys. Here's how I see it:

190-200 rwhp stock
+ 1.bbk shorty headers = 200-210
+ 2.f303 cam = 205-220
+ 3.gt40 upper & lower intake = 215-235
+ 4.cold air intake = 220-240
+ 5.73mm c&l maf = 225-245
+ 6.msd coil = -
+ 7.msd cap = -
+ 8.underdrive pulleys = 235-255
+ 9.shorty shifter = -
+ 10.3.73 gears = -
+ 11.worked e7 heads = (without details, this is meaningless... My biggest questions would be what size are the valves, and how much compression, unless you have actual flow charts for the heads)
+ 12.stage 3 clutch = -
+ 13.65mm throttle body = 240-260
+ 14.rebuilt motor = -

So there you have it, 240-260 rwhp. Honestly, I would lean towards the low end unless the worked heads are a real performance improvement. Oh yeah, and 110mph in the 1/4 is bull. It's possible to do with those heads, but not unless you're sandbagging and know a hell of a lot more than you're letting on. Where is that number coming from, a G-tech pro or something the previous owner told you? If that's a spec stage 3 clutch, it's serious over kill on your combo. Someone probably wouldn't put a clutch like that on your car unless they were running a decent shot of nitrous, or were planning to do a lot more to the car in the future.


Fast driver, you are right on the money. I had a car with the exact same mods, only difference was I had stock heads milled a bit for higher compression, and a custom tune from Paul's in Jackson mi. It made 279 rwhp on his dyno. I believe if you took your car and got a nice tune, you would get pretty close to 300 rwhp. Keep in mind factory figures are taken from an engine dyno, and depending on transmission and driveline components, you'll lose anywhere between 40-75 horsepower.
 
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Wait... your car made 279rwhp or 279 hp? Big difference... If the former, then I don't get your post, because you said that I was right on the money, and then said that he should pull 40 rwhp more than my high end estimate.
 
Yeah, exactly what I said is right, your estimate was 240-260. A tune will net anywhere from 30-50 MORE horsepower, so, without a tune, your estimate is, as I said, right on. It is truly night and day difference after you get your car tuned. All those changes he made will make a lot more power over stock, but a custom tune, plus maybe a reflashed air meter if he puts bigger injectors and to maximize the bigger maf, will really wake his motor up. However, a tune is not REQUIRED, and it will run strong as is. I was just confirming your estimate because according to my test dyno sheets, before the tune, I was right at about 245 rwhp, and after the tune, got it up to almos 280 rwhp. and since we had almost the same mods, save for the shaved heads (which MIGHT equate the porting work he did, but I'm not sure since we don't know the specs), I think you are right on as far as your estimate. I'm just saying a tune would really get everything working together and maximize the modifications.
 
A tune will net anywhere from 30-50 MORE horsepower, so, without a tune, your estimate is, as I said, right on.
Oh man, if only that were true. Sorry to say dude, but the average person isn't picking up 30-50hp with a few basic bolt ons and a tune....especially with stock heads. Even blown guys aren't picking up that kind of power. In N/A form, with those mods you'd be lucky to see 5-15hp on a good day. Some people pick up less than that and only improve drivability.
 
Agree with you, Brian. Although I did go from 255 rwhp and then ended with 311, but that was due to backing the fuel pressure off of my street tune and it went extremely lean. I ended up with the same fuel pressure and timing I found worked best at the track. Back then, I didn't bother with a chip. I might have picked up a little under the curve, but not much.... certainly nothing at peak.
 
Well, I had a70mm tb, 24lb injectors, gt40 upper and lower, reflashed mam, and an msd digital ignition, shaved gt40 heads, and it made 243 rwhp prior to the tune, and 279 rwhp after on premium fuel with an upgraded fuel pump. I will rummage around to find my dyno sheet (I sold that car) if you don't believe me, or you can ask Paul's High Perfomance about the little purple notchback that could. Even the crew there said 279 rwhp was "respectable for a N/A car". These are the facts. Actually, I was hoping with all the money I had put into THAT motor at the time, I would have at least cracked 300 rwhp, but this is what I got. I won't chime in here anymore till I find my dyno sheets, but I've got no reason to make it up, if I was gonna make up anything I would LIKE to tell you that all that $$$ into my motor got me more than it did, but...
 
Well, I had a70mm tb, 24lb injectors, gt40 upper and lower, reflashed mam, and an msd digital ignition, shaved gt40 heads, and it made 243 rwhp prior to the tune, and 279 rwhp after on premium fuel with an upgraded fuel pump. I will rummage around to find my dyno sheet (I sold that car) if you don't believe me, or you can ask Paul's High Perfomance about the little purple notchback that could. Even the crew there said 279 rwhp was "respectable for a N/A car". These are the facts. Actually, I was hoping with all the money I had put into THAT motor at the time, I would have at least cracked 300 rwhp, but this is what I got. I won't chime in here anymore till I find my dyno sheets, but I've got no reason to make it up, if I was gonna make up anything I would LIKE to tell you that all that $$$ into my motor got me more than it did, but...

Don't get worked up man. What I'm saying to you, is that 30-50hp is not a typical increase for most N/A dyno tunes. Especially ones with just bolt ons and such entry level top ends. You replaced a fuel pump and went from premium to regular fuel between dyno pulls. For all you know, your previous pump could have been what was holding you back...and the high test fuel would allow you to run a measurable amount more timing. Had you upgraded your fuel pump and filled the tank with premium and adjust the timing accordingly prior to your first dyno pull....then there's a good bet that the horsepower differences between the two may have not been quite so dramatic.

You stating that a tune will net someone 30-50hp more, is a little misleading...as most aren't seen anywhere close to those increases.

Also, it's not uncommon for a dyno operator to "manipulated" the parameters of the program to show in increased measure in performance from one pull to the next. Customers tend to walk away happier when they see big increases after spending hundreds of dollars on their dyno tune, than the ones who don't. ;)
 
Another point worth emphasizing is that you were running GT40s, not the "stock heads" you originally mentioned. GT40s aren't going to set the world on fire, but they are good for 30+ hp more than E7s are in stock form with the right supporting parts. The only mustangs those heads came "stock" on were cobras.
 
Fast driver, you are right on the money. I had a car with the exact same mods, only difference was I had stock heads milled a bit for higher compression, and a custom tune from Paul's in Jackson mi.

Well, I had a70mm tb, 24lb injectors, gt40 upper and lower, reflashed mam, and an msd digital ignition, shaved gt40 heads, and it made 243 rwhp prior to the tune, and 279 rwhp after on premium fuel with an upgraded fuel pump.
So which is it...stock heads, or GT40? Because your car didn't come stock with GT40's. And like Chris stated...the GT40's are good for about 30hp over the stock E7TE's your car came with.