- Mar 31, 2012
- 8
- 0
- 2
88 Mustang 5.0 LX No Spark No fuel
Bought car with a smashed up ignition housing, key cylinder, stolen radio, battery, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, coil, stereo etc. Although I bought the car in a no run state body and interior are excellent condition with tonnes of new parts. Anyways here we go.
Put on a new rotor, cap plug wires, coil wire, coil, ignition housing, key cylinder etc. After this stuff was all installed it was time to crank the engine over to see if she would start. Well the engine would crank over but would not start. No spark at the plugs, no spark with the coil wire. First thought was bad coil so that has been replaced, with the key on there is power on both wires are the harness for the coil.
Fuel pump does not prime. Schrader valve only released droplets of fuel not a stream of pressurized gas. There is ignition power at the red wires at the injectors. Inertia switch has power on both sides with the key on. Fuel pump relay?????? Ok well I do not hear the relay kick in with the key turned on. Checked for constant power and it is there. When I touch a tester from tan/blue ( Could be wrong on the colors) to ground the relay kicks in but I don’t here the pump turn on. To me this means the relay is not getting the grounding signal from the EEC. So I checked the eec relay, it has power to at least three wires and it can be heard kicking in when the key is turned. All accessories of the car appear to work, 5 fuselinks by the battery were tested and all good, one on passenger side good aswell, all fuses in fuse box test good, and one fuse under the hood tests good too.
Ignition switch has been tested and all appears to be good with one exception, the neutral safety switch out on the switch does not light up when tested. Could this be why I have no spark or fuel? Car cranks though! As previously stated about stolen parts, the distributor has been exposed to weather with the cap off but hood closed. Could the PIP sensor or TFI/ignition module cause these problems?
What is the easiest way to test the fuel pump by passing the relay? Run a wire right from the battery to the pink and black wire at the fuel pump relay or right to the wire in the trunk?
Been reading the forum a lot and have tested so many wires etc I’m kinda at a loss. Looking at buying a new distributor to avoid the hassle of removing the pip sensor and module cause others say it’s a pain in the butt to remove and reinstall. I am use to GM not so much fords, Investing money into parts is not an issue I just dont want to be replacing good parts for no reason.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, this is my weekend project car that I hope to have up and running for May when the race track opens. Got along ways to go but it would sure help if the car was running lol, thanks in advance
Bought car with a smashed up ignition housing, key cylinder, stolen radio, battery, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, coil, stereo etc. Although I bought the car in a no run state body and interior are excellent condition with tonnes of new parts. Anyways here we go.
Put on a new rotor, cap plug wires, coil wire, coil, ignition housing, key cylinder etc. After this stuff was all installed it was time to crank the engine over to see if she would start. Well the engine would crank over but would not start. No spark at the plugs, no spark with the coil wire. First thought was bad coil so that has been replaced, with the key on there is power on both wires are the harness for the coil.
Fuel pump does not prime. Schrader valve only released droplets of fuel not a stream of pressurized gas. There is ignition power at the red wires at the injectors. Inertia switch has power on both sides with the key on. Fuel pump relay?????? Ok well I do not hear the relay kick in with the key turned on. Checked for constant power and it is there. When I touch a tester from tan/blue ( Could be wrong on the colors) to ground the relay kicks in but I don’t here the pump turn on. To me this means the relay is not getting the grounding signal from the EEC. So I checked the eec relay, it has power to at least three wires and it can be heard kicking in when the key is turned. All accessories of the car appear to work, 5 fuselinks by the battery were tested and all good, one on passenger side good aswell, all fuses in fuse box test good, and one fuse under the hood tests good too.
Ignition switch has been tested and all appears to be good with one exception, the neutral safety switch out on the switch does not light up when tested. Could this be why I have no spark or fuel? Car cranks though! As previously stated about stolen parts, the distributor has been exposed to weather with the cap off but hood closed. Could the PIP sensor or TFI/ignition module cause these problems?
What is the easiest way to test the fuel pump by passing the relay? Run a wire right from the battery to the pink and black wire at the fuel pump relay or right to the wire in the trunk?
Been reading the forum a lot and have tested so many wires etc I’m kinda at a loss. Looking at buying a new distributor to avoid the hassle of removing the pip sensor and module cause others say it’s a pain in the butt to remove and reinstall. I am use to GM not so much fords, Investing money into parts is not an issue I just dont want to be replacing good parts for no reason.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, this is my weekend project car that I hope to have up and running for May when the race track opens. Got along ways to go but it would sure help if the car was running lol, thanks in advance