Another Intake Victim

Here's a more complete answer. The most common issue is the plastic coolant crossover cracking, which Ford was sued for. The fix is to use the later, 2001 and up intake with the aluminum crossover. Unfortunately, these plastic intakes are also known to crack at the rear, where the heater hose attaches. There is no "fix" for that issue, other than buying an aftermarket all-aluminum intake manifold.
 
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Well that's awesome. If I get this new intake on and it cracks in the back, I'll probably drop the motor and chuck it into the ocean*.















*with all environmentally harmful fluids drained, within EPA compliance and certification for an artificial reef.
 
Took the car out for the first time today. Been working a little bit at a time over the past week, as school and work leave no time for anything. Snapped an intake bolt off in the head, had to pull it all back off and extract the bolt (thankfully it was just above the head surface), and buttoned it all back up.

I forgot how fun the car was to drive. Before this all happened, it just felt old, loose, and slow to me. But I made sure I ran it in "right", did some nice cornering, WOT on motor and spray... ohhhh, the spray... how I forgot about that feeling. Basically, it's like driving the car for the first time!

Next up when I get time is upping the jets. Going to do some plug reading on the 100 shot (plugs looked GREAT when I took them out) and if all is well, try the 125...
 
My 99 GT...aka Bumbles, showed some coolant coming from the thermostat housing area :nonono:. I followed RedDaemon's wonderful procedure:nice: (btw...Thanks, awesome write-up:hail2: ). Turned out to be the gasket cracked/broke at the coolant passage. Since, I had it all apart and I figured I was on borrowed time anyway at 11 yrs and 110k miles, I went ahead and got the FRPP intake. I also went ahead and changed all the injector orings and pintle caps as one cap was cracked. Took me the whole weekend (took my time as I didn't want to mess anything up) but saved a bunch, learned alot. Got it all buttoned up and "Bumbles" is back to life. :banana:
 
My 99 GT...aka Bumbles, showed some coolant coming from the thermostat housing area :nonono:. I followed RedDaemon's wonderful procedure:nice: (btw...Thanks, awesome write-up:hail2: ). Turned out to be the gasket cracked/broke at the coolant passage. Since, I had it all apart and I figured I was on borrowed time anyway at 11 yrs and 110k miles, I went ahead and got the FRPP intake. I also went ahead and changed all the injector orings and pintle caps as one cap was cracked. Took me the whole weekend (took my time as I didn't want to mess anything up) but saved a bunch, learned alot. Got it all buttoned up and "Bumbles" is back to life. :banana:

Sounds like you got it all taken care of, congrats.

dont torque the bolts on the plastic intakes more than 18ftlb and there is a sequence of torqueing thoes nine bolts, be carefull or u will be buying a new intake

Torque specs I saw called for 22 ft lb. I tightened them to 15-18 or so initially, went back and re-torqued to 22 ft lb.
 
Took the car out for the first time today. Been working a little bit at a time over the past week, as school and work leave no time for anything. Snapped an intake bolt off in the head, had to pull it all back off and extract the bolt (thankfully it was just above the head surface), and buttoned it all back up.

I forgot how fun the car was to drive. Before this all happened, it just felt old, loose, and slow to me. But I made sure I ran it in "right", did some nice cornering, WOT on motor and spray... ohhhh, the spray... how I forgot about that feeling. Basically, it's like driving the car for the first time!

Next up when I get time is upping the jets. Going to do some plug reading on the 100 shot (plugs looked GREAT when I took them out) and if all is well, try the 125...

Congrats that its back up and running! Sorry about the mishap thou but its good that it wasn't a disaster :nice:

My 99 GT...aka Bumbles, showed some coolant coming from the thermostat housing area :nonono:. I followed RedDaemon's wonderful procedure:nice: (btw...Thanks, awesome write-up:hail2: ).

AWESOME! I have been waiting for someone to comment on the writeup who has followed it. I am glad that it was useful. i hope it was accurate. i would love to hear feedback from you (PMs) to make the writeup better :nice:

dont torque the bolts on the plastic intakes more than 18ftlb and there is a sequence of torqueing thoes nine bolts, be carefull or u will be buying a new intake

mine is holding up fine at 23 ft/lbs:shrug:
 
First of all, congrats on the purchase.

The years affected by the cracking intake are from 1996-mid 2001.

If your car hasn't had it replaced, it'll be hit or miss. Mine lasted until 147,000 miles then it split.

To tell if you have the crack-proned one, pop the hood and find the alternator (it's at the top of the serpentine-belt drive. Now look directly behind that, and the very front-most runner on the intake manifold will be the coolant crossover. If it's black plastic, like the rest of the intake, that's the factory intake that's prone to cracking. If that area is metal, not plastic, it's already been replaced.


If it hasn't been replaced, don't panic. Sometimes it starts out slow, so just keep an eye on your coolant level. If you notice it starts to drain over time, chances are you have a small leak and it's going to get worse over time. With the lower mileage, I wouldn't be too concerned with it at this point.
My 2000 GT just started leaking...just noticed it, has 135K on it. The leak is just below the therm cap, is there an epoxy that will seal the crack?
 
My 2000 GT just started leaking...just noticed it, has 135K on it. The leak is just below the therm cap, is there an epoxy that will seal the crack?

People have used epoxy but it doesn't seem to be a long standing repair. Too much pressure and heat to keep it from ruining the epoxy.

:*( This thread is not selling me on spraying the car as much as I'd like. Throws me in for a good mix of things beings I purchased a trickflow throttlebody/plenum kinda throws the edelbrock intake manifold out the window.

What's wrong with the Edelbrock intake?

Spray didn't cause my intake to originally fail.
 
People have used epoxy but it doesn't seem to be a long standing repair. Too much pressure and heat to keep it from ruining the epoxy.



What's wrong with the Edelbrock intake?

Spray didn't cause my intake to originally fail.

Nothing wrong with the Edelbrock intake but, Wouldnt I have to swap my tb/ and plenum because you need Edelbrocks low pro plenum to fix clearance issues after installing their intake?
 
I think MMR makes an adapter for the stock plenum (and TB) to fit under a stock hood. It's about $60, if I recall.

However, you still need the Edelbrock fuel lines or just need to modify the factory lines, which I've heard isn't that hard.

If I popped my intake again, I'd go Edelbrock. I didn't the first time because it had just came out and I was too hesitant to be a guinea pig for it.
 
The Edelbrock plenum adapter is $70. If you get the $100 Edelbrock fuel rails, you'll need the fuel rail pressure sensor adapter; which is $50.

You'll also need new bolts for most everything, new fuel hoses and connections, and delete the EGR most likely.

Oh, and modify your alternator mount. If you do it cheap, you're going to run about $680. Including the Edelbrock Manifold and Fuel Rails.

If you do it right, with good AN fuel line fittings and braided lines; you're looking to triple the cost of that stuff.

Also the 6061 upper intake that fits this manifold without an adapter is $235, plus $200 for a 75mm throttlebody, and maybe $180 for a cold air kit to go to the 75mm.