First project car

[Jim Pawloski]

Hello!

Just bought my first project car, a 1965 Mustang with the 289 and auto trans. I have re-built engines before but I've never done more performance upgrades that just cold air intakes, ignition, etc. I want to make this car street legal, but strip worthy. My first question is, after some research, I found that the 289 and the 351 have the same bore (4") the only difference is the stroke of 2.87" for the 289 and 3.5" for the 351. Can I just take the crank and the pistons from a 351? And if I planned on supercharging this engine would it be beneficial or not to stroke it?

Next question is if I bore this engine block 40 over, increase displacement to 355, do I use bigger pistons or just bigger rings?

Thanks for the help,
Jim

 

[bikefreak600]

351 rotating assy is NOT interchangable with 289/302. the reason being the 289/302 has a cylinder deck height of 8.2 inch/ with crank stroke of 3 inches, rod length 5.09inch. the 351 deck height is 9.5 with a stroke of 3.5 inche, rod length 5.9 inch. simpily put....... a 302 block with a 351 rotating assy the pistons would stick out of the block about an inch ! lol

 

[Jim Pawloski]

So I just need to find a stroker kit for that engine. What about that second question about boring?

 

[bikefreak600]

bigger pistons , a stroker kit will come with the correct parts

 

[woodsnake]

327 and 331 both are very popular stroker applications, as well as the 347. Anytime you overbore, you will need new pistons and rings to match. When it comes time for H/C/I heads, cam and intake, keep in mind your rear end gear ratio, and transmission as well. A 3. 89/ 4.11 rear gear, and a three speed auto trans will get old on the highway really quick!

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

If you are going to sink the money to stroke it at the very least go with a roller block out of the 5.0s. They are relatively cheap and easy to find. With a 347 stroker, roller block, and decent heads/cam/intake you can easily get over 400hp without breaking a sweat. You might even be able to get a hold of the drivetrain with the engine as well so you have overdrive. Depends on how fast you want to go and how much you want to spend.

 

[woodsnake]

True, a roller motor and O/D trans should be easy to find locally, just check your craigslist, and see whats what..

 

[Realmongo]

If you get a later Explorer 5.0, you will also get GT40 or GT40P cylinder heads

 

[65 stanger]

i have a 65 coupe had l6 going with a 351w block and 408w stroker kit from coast high (would recomend them) .040 over pistons, rings, rods, bearings, crank. bout $1900 bucks for the bottem end 410w with .040 pistons all in the kit.

 

[Jim Pawloski]

I was able to find a 347 stroker kit for my lil 289 for only 900 bucks on ebay, fully balanced never installed. Going to also go 40 over. Now if I wanted to supercharge this engine, built up to the 347. What compression ratio should I have before I add boost?

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

I was able to find a 347 stroker kit for my lil 289 for only 900 bucks on ebay, fully balanced never installed. Going to also go 40 over. Now if I wanted to supercharge this engine, built up to the 347. What compression ratio should I have before I add boost?

Depends on how much boost you are planning on. 9:1 would be fine for some boost, once you start to get over 400rwhp you are going to have to worry about the block though. I still recommend you find a roller block and throw your goodies on that, you are giving away some easy horsepower and streetability if you stick with the 289 block. If you plan on making big numbers with a stroker and boost you are going to have to pay up and get a dart block anyway.

 

[Falcon79]

Dude, get the roller block, you obviously don't care about keeping it stock, so why leave some good HP on the table. Avoid the GT40-p heads from the explorer 5.0 though, the plugs stick straight out and its a PIA to change them with headers.

 

[Jim Pawloski]

I was just looking to save a bit of money, got a baby on the way. I'm not too familiar with the term roller block. Is that just a newer engine out of the later year mustangs or is that term for a rebuilt block?

 

[Falcon79]

the roller block has a different style camshaft and uses hydraulic roller lifters, whereas your 289 uses flat tappet lifters and camshaft. The roller block is anything post '86...i think. It all boils down to less friction = more HP. I'm sure some of the other guys on the forum can explain it more in depth than me.

Oh, and congrats on the baby!

 

[Monty_Brown]

<--I built this 331 from a 89 5.0 roller block, trick flow heads, and trickflow roller valvetrain....easy power and a crap load of aftermarket parts

 

[bikefreak600]

the roller block has a different style camshaft and uses hydraulic roller lifters, whereas your 289 uses flat tappet lifters and camshaft. The roller block is anything post '86...i think. It all boils down to less friction = more HP. I'm sure some of the other guys on the forum can explain it more in depth than me.

Oh, and congrats on the baby!

a early block with retro fit roller lifters makes more sense.. being he already has the block !

 

[Monty_Brown]

you can buy a complete low milage 5.0 roller motor for the $500 you will have in retro fit roller cam setup.

 

[Monty_Brown]

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

a early block with retro fit roller lifters makes more sense.. being he already has the block !

A retrofit requires either using vertical link lifters like the ones I have, which cost $500 for the lifters alone. Doing a retrofit requires the use of a reduced base circle cam which gets reduces the high ramp rates, an associated benefit with a roller cam. He has to redo the whole bottom end anyway with the 289 so for the same price he will have a roller block and all the associated benefits. He is talking about a 347 with boost though. With plans to make that kind of power he won't be able to use a factory block without risk of splitting the block anyway.

 

[Jim Pawloski]

Would this work for my roller block issue?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91168