I have the worlds slowest fox body

Mine isn't theoretical or hypothetical. It's been done so many times I couldn't count that high. I have seen it done many times with my friends cars and watched them go down the track. If someone bought a tf top end kit brand new for 2500, what are you willing to pay for it used????

I don't even have a wideband or half the **** you guys claim is necessary. How many factory boosted cars do???

My car nor these other cars I've ridden
In, worked on and seem make 12 second passes are bombs or 1/4 mile specific. Read my posts again. They were street trim. As is mine. I have AC, power windows, locks, mirrors etc etc thus showing you I know what street trim is. And for that matter, my 88 GT I bought factory had no AC or power windows, thus also meaning street trim doesn't necessitate those.

Lastly, he's owned 4 stangs. If Hes owned Legos and 4 stangs he has the skills to put a top end kit on. It's not rocket science.
Dude, I wasn't coming at you. If you have personal experience with this subject then I take your word for it. I have personal experience dictating the opposite. If you're saying that you can take a bone stock average condition Fox and go 12s with less than $2,000 then you gets mad respect...from me at least.

And by street legal/streetable/track worthy I'm talking about building a car with creature comforts that will be reliable every day. So I'm sure you can skip out on a FPR or an AFR gauge or a fuel pressure gauge...or have a boosted engine with no vacuum/boost gauge for that matter...still tho, that car will not be the most reliable. I wouldn't drive that car for more than 5 minutes around town. I mean how could you consider a modded forced induction or N/A engine to be reliable when you have no idea how much boost you're making, if there's a vacuum issue, how much pressure you fuel injectors are getting, how lean you're running, etc. You can't just skip out on these things and talk about 12 second passes for less than $2000.

What I'm saying is that your estimate is like when MM&FF says they can build a 600 hp engine for less than x amount of money. They don't factor in a lot of things that quickly add up. Little odds and ends, tools, etc. There are soo many things that can turn a small budget project into a relatively costly one. That's all I'm sayin...but again, I'm not coming at you. Everyone has their own idea of a budget build. I just feel that a budget 12 second budget build should still include everything necessary to make the car reliable and keep you aware of the engines overall condition.
 
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Dude, I wasn't coming at you. If you have personal experience with this subject then I take your word for it. I have personal experience dictating the opposite. If you're saying that you can take a bone stock average condition Fox and go 12s with less than $2,000 then you gets mad respect...from me at least.

And by street legal/streetable/track worthy I'm talking about building a car with creature comforts that will be reliable every day. So I'm sure you can skip out on a FPR or an AFR gauge or a fuel pressure gauge...or have a boosted engine with no vacuum/boost gauge for that matter...still tho, that car will not be the most reliable. I wouldn't drive that car for more than 5 minutes around town. I mean how could you consider a modded forced induction or N/A engine to be reliable when you have no idea how much boost you're making, if there's a vacuum issue, how much pressure you fuel injectors are getting, how lean you're running, etc. You can't just skip out on these things and talk about 12 second passes for less than $2000.

What I'm saying is that your estimate is like when MM&FF says they can build a 600 hp engine for less than x amount of money. They don't factor in a lot of things that quickly add up. Little odds and ends, tools, etc. There are soo many things that can turn a small budget project into a relatively costly one. That's all I'm sayin...but again, I'm not coming at you. Everyone has their own idea of a budget build. I just feel that a budget 12 second budget build should still include everything necessary to make the car reliable and keep you aware of the engines overall condition.
I am not coming at you or anyone else for that matter either. What I am saying is TO THE OP, getting a top end kit used on top of what he has is less than 2k and will warrant 12's all day long. It is situationally specific.

Help me understand something though, are you saying a top end kit makes a car unreliable? :scratch:
 
1. Nobody in this hobby is both broke and skill-less. You don't get to be both and still play. So either let go of the budget argument or the cost of labor argument.

2. You make that car out to be a ticking time bomb, but IIRC he later put an enormous procharger on it and ran 10s. If it did that, 12s were a walk in the park.

3. 12.9 still counts as 12s. When guys in the new Coyotes are running 12.9s, nobody's pissing and moaning "barely".

4. With a calibrated meter you really can get away with a lot without a tune. My car is even an extreme example, and though I do want to tune ot to get the most out of it, I have a few thousand miles on the new motor, a handful of 1/4 mile passes, no tune,and no real significant issues.

FWIW, over the years I have built an entire suspension for my car, transmission, brakes, engine, rear end, etc etc. No welder, no bender, no lift, and a lot of that was done in a 1 car garage. In fact, I rebuilt the rear end and put 3.73s in it literally on a kitchen table. If you guys think what Sharad did to his car was a lot of work, you're crazy.
 
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For the record, my first set of heads was gt40y aluminum heads.
Not the worlds best, but far better than stock.
The guy i sold them to made 274rwhp with an e cam and gt40 intake.
I bought them NIB on the internet, a place where they had 100's of sets, $699.

Gt40x can be had cheap, which was also on a friends lx with an e cam and gt40 tubular intake. Went 11.98@116 full weight.

It only takes about 250rwhp on one of these cars to run 12's, can even be done on a gt40p budget.

Twisted wedges are on sale frequently at $999, so $700 used isn't unreasonable.
I've even turned down sets of gt40x's at $500, because i really didn't have anything to put them on.

About the only set you can't get at a decent price is the afr 165's.
 
A good friend of mine has a 90 lx hatch that runs 12.90's. It has:
a stock 96 explorer motor with a B-cam,
performer efi intake,
explorer TB and 70mm MAF,
BBK longtubes and H-pipe into dumped flowmasters,
T-5 (with 2.95 1st),
3.73 gears with 31 spline trak-lok unit with carbon fiber clutches,
subframe connectors ,
stock rear control arms,
A9L computer

He launches at 4k on 26" slicks and cuts 1.60's 60 ft times and shifts between 5500-6000
runs 12.90's on the slicks and 13.40's on street tires.

I don't know if his car is a freak or what, but it's a relatively simple combo that wasn't expensive and consistently runs 12.90's.

ETA: this is a full weight car with stock seats, A/C, power steering, and all carpet. Only thing removed is the smog pump and related stuff.
 
Help me understand something though, are you saying a top end kit makes a car unreliable? :scratch:
Not saying that at all. I'm just saying that some method of tuning has to be available to me personally. If not then I consider it unreliable. Some people are fine with just buying mods and installing them and driving off. Me, I need to know something about what the engine/ECU is doing...at the very least fuel pressure and vacuum. I mean, how many "HELP" posts are out there concerning fuel or vacuum issues? These kids have all these mods but the engine has a problem and they can't tell you if it's related to fuel pressure, spark, vacuum, or anything. Which is why I say that a set-up with just HCI and stuff is incomplete. I would never run a S/C without a boost gauge. And I would never install aftermarket heads and cams without monitoring and adjusting the fuel trims and spark. And all the more so if the car were my DD or even a second car. I have 3 cars. I barely drive my 95 GT...but if I get in it and the fuel pressure gauge isn't working then I would hesitate to even start the car. God forbid I'm laying into the thing and it decides to go lean on me at WOT. That's just my opinion tho.
 
Guys I don't really care what it takes to get into the 12s. Be had a hci fox before with canfield 190s, e cam and edelbrock intake tht went 12.7s with a slipping clutch an syncos gone in 3rd so I k ow its really not tht hard. Yes I have the knowledge and tools to do just abt anything. I need or want to do. But like I said before I bought this car for a motor swap project. I was just trying to have a little fun till. I start the swap. I'm doin a 5.3 ls swap with a ms3 cam and nitrous.
 
1. Nobody in this hobby is both broke and skill-less. You don't get to be both and still play. So either let go of the budget argument or the cost of labor argument.

2. You make that car out to be a ticking time bomb, but IIRC he later put an enormous procharger on it and ran 10s. If it did that, 12s were a walk in the park.
My bad if I seemed like I was making his car out to be a bomb. Not saying his (or anyone's) car is a bomb. I'm just saying that sometimes people are only interested in running a specific time on a budget and so they don't waste money on certain items. I'm saying that in the case of Sharad, this wasn't his everyday car. There was a specific purpose for that car. The OP (and the majority of others) is in a different boat. Can a Fox run 12s on a stock engine? Sure. For less than $2,000? Sure, if you can do most of the labor and strip a lot of stuff out. Can it do so for less than $2,000 on a stock engine and get you to and from school or work and around town reliably and somewhat comfortably? Well that depends on what your idea of reliability and comfort is. And IMO, I'd say no it can't (as far as my idea of reliability and comfort is concerned)...not for less than $2,000.
 
Hey fellas, how bout this for sad well sadish... We're arguing about a 12 second pass. Damn ford and their low hp motors until recent years. I guess though the old adage still stands true: there's no replacement for displacement. When you're starting from 200 and some odd hp you have a lot of ground to cover. I have one more adage and I'll leave yall with this, "how fast do you wanna go, how much money you got?"
 
as far as getting a Z28, ohh I dunno the '94 and '95 models came stock with like 275 hp at the motor but I bet you couldn't find one that wasn't junked out and the '00's had like 305 hp and they'd be prob be rattle traps too now days . They were fast but uncomfortable as a 'b' with their crap little seats having to look up over the long ass dash. The formulas and TA's were sexy but same kind of ride situation. That being said, they'd be fun to hotrod around but probably tough to live with. Kinda like a supermodel as a girlfriend.
 
01-02 z28 would prolly be the best bang for the buck
. Lid and exhaust would yield 12s with a good driver and oddly enough even at today's prices that's right at an explorer combo and slicks which would put a good driver and a fox into 12s. I used to have an ls1 z28 and it was overall the better car but strictly speaking with a 2k , hell even z 1000 dollar budget thectwo would be damn close in the 1/4.
 
Ford finally got off their ass and made a motor that made some power in the last year or two but you're looking at close to $40k for a gt. Ridiculous
The 11 GTs brand new were around $32K-$35K. The prices now are in the $26K range depending on mileage. Some of the dealerships out there are acting like they're sitting on gold tho. I was shopping for a Coyote about a month ago and found some high mileage cars that the dealers just would not come down on.
 
as far as getting a Z28, ohh I dunno the '94 and '95 models came stock with like 275 hp at the motor but I bet you couldn't find one that wasn't junked out and the '00's had like 305 hp and they'd be prob be rattle traps too now days . They were fast but uncomfortable as a 'b' with their crap little seats having to look up over the long ass dash. The formulas and TA's were sexy but same kind of ride situation. That being said, they'd be fun to hotrod around but probably tough to live with. Kinda like a supermodel as a girlfriend.
Yea they were uncomfortable...even more so for the passenger. The hump in the floor on the passenger side is an unforgiveable sin from Chevy...