i have a 68 coupe with 302 block with edelbrock 321/347 package. Auto trans, ps, pb, a/c. Dual flowmaster exhaust fairly new. One of my cast iron headers is cracked plus i feel they are obstructing the exhaust and i'm not getting the most from my engine. I thought about shorty headers but would like hear what some of you have used and would suggest for the least amount of modification and long lasting. All ideas appreciated.
68 Coupe 302 Need Header Ideas
- Thread starter jerthemost
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horse sence
15 Year Member
i have had very good luck with headman headers,easy to install with no
clearance probs,didnt even have to make a dent and the price was right
depends on cerma chrome finnish or regular finnish.
clearance probs,didnt even have to make a dent and the price was right
depends on cerma chrome finnish or regular finnish.
what style? shorty long tube or what? do you have a part number of what you used?
horse sence
15 Year Member
long tube 3" collector -88300 got them through mustangs unlimited
around $200 with shipping .they have the ceramic as well for $450
that was to much for me black was just fine
around $200 with shipping .they have the ceramic as well for $450
that was to much for me black was just fine
Falcon79
Active Member
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
With longtubes you'll need to use a drop bracket for the power steering slave cylinder and welding it on the frame is generally preferred over bolts. I have the regular Hooker Comp longtubes with no PS and I think I had to dent one primary for the scattershield.
I may eventually put PS back in my car and don't like the idea of a drop bracket at all, so the obvious option is shorty headers. JBA has been around for along time making good Fox3 (shorty) headers in stainless. BBK is also a popular brand, although I always heard a lot about the flanges warping. I used Flowtechs when I had an '89 GT and won't do that again, although they did look crummy enough to slip through a CA smog check.
I may eventually put PS back in my car and don't like the idea of a drop bracket at all, so the obvious option is shorty headers. JBA has been around for along time making good Fox3 (shorty) headers in stainless. BBK is also a popular brand, although I always heard a lot about the flanges warping. I used Flowtechs when I had an '89 GT and won't do that again, although they did look crummy enough to slip through a CA smog check.
horse sence
15 Year Member
the long tube headers create more power they flow beter than the shorties
not to mention sound beter,seal the collectors with high heat red silicone
and a good set of gaskets they wont leak. the long power steer bracket is not a problem
use grade 8 bolts with lock nuts and a crimp nut on the long bolt, cant tell you how many times i have had to cut loose a power steer bracket some one welded on,what a pain in the butt,you can gain a lot with a good set of headers ,intake ,carb and a good
cam. and its easy to go play should you want to drop the exhaust.down side is rear
tires dont last to long
not to mention sound beter,seal the collectors with high heat red silicone
and a good set of gaskets they wont leak. the long power steer bracket is not a problem
use grade 8 bolts with lock nuts and a crimp nut on the long bolt, cant tell you how many times i have had to cut loose a power steer bracket some one welded on,what a pain in the butt,you can gain a lot with a good set of headers ,intake ,carb and a good
cam. and its easy to go play should you want to drop the exhaust.down side is rear
tires dont last to long
Hwyman
Member
I am using Sanderson. Excellent fit. 66 w/302, Borgeson pwr steering, AOD trans. On their web site in the tech department, they have some actual numbers testing engines with shorties vs. long tubes. Since I'm not not a racer, the difference didn't off set any potential install problems. See the numbers here http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Lets-Get-Technical.html.
horse sence
15 Year Member
hey hwyman ,just a stones throw away i am in lindsay, i have heard good things
about sanderson never tried them but i know people who have and they are happy
with them, i have looked at them and they are well made
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
Longtubes have a longer "tuned" length that lends itself to the rpm ranges that most street engines see. Using the same diameter primaries, shorty headers are only behind longtubes in single-digit percentages....kind of like the gain of an x-pipe over an h-pipe.
I like the ceramic coatings, but I would recommend ordering your headers plain, install, and see what hits what. once you have the steering and bellhousing cleared, then send the headers in to be coated.
I paid for ceramic headers, had to cut and reweld one pipe, then pay to recoat one header again. save the money and do it in the right order.
I paid for ceramic headers, had to cut and reweld one pipe, then pay to recoat one header again. save the money and do it in the right order.
bartl
Active Member
Replacing your cast HiPo manifold - easy, everything fits. They are made in reproduction and you don't give up that much over a shorty header. Less underhood heat, less prone to leaks.
With shorty's you'll give up some torque over long tubes but they are a cleaner install, especially the ball & socket flanges and provide better ground clearance. I'm going this route with JBA 1650-S's (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JBA-1650S/) over my existing Tri-Y's. In your application you'll have to replace your H-pipe (time for an X-pipe anyway, right?).
Long tubes will usually give the best performance. All the regular header issues apply including ground clearance at the collector flanges.
PS: A good welding shop can probably fix that crack.
With shorty's you'll give up some torque over long tubes but they are a cleaner install, especially the ball & socket flanges and provide better ground clearance. I'm going this route with JBA 1650-S's (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JBA-1650S/) over my existing Tri-Y's. In your application you'll have to replace your H-pipe (time for an X-pipe anyway, right?).
Long tubes will usually give the best performance. All the regular header issues apply including ground clearance at the collector flanges.
PS: A good welding shop can probably fix that crack.
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