i have ran a cylinder balance test on more then one occassion thus far and has passed everytime with a code of 90. if its not a stuck valve or lifter, what is the possibility of a vacumn leak causing this? i am honestly at a loss right now and cant figure out whats going on to cause this, ive tried to go over all of the houses and vacuum lines and check for leakes, but so far have yet to have found anything. I am going to try using a can throttle body cleaner this weekend on a cold start and see if it sucks in any of the cleaner and changes the rpm at all on all of the connections and gasket points
Multiple Issues With 93 Mustang
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Using highly flammable liquid or gas to find leaks isn't a good plan. The best tool is squirt can of motor oil. It is a little messy, but it won't flash fire and burn your eyebrows off...
If the car idles well enough to do a cylinder balance test, you may not have vacuum problems. A vacuum gauge is the best tool to find low vacuum. You should see 16.5"-18" at 650-750 RPM and 18"-20" at 1000 RPM.
If the car idles well enough to do a cylinder balance test, you may not have vacuum problems. A vacuum gauge is the best tool to find low vacuum. You should see 16.5"-18" at 650-750 RPM and 18"-20" at 1000 RPM.
i have not been able to run it yet, i was just curious if there was any other suspected reasons. But I wont be able to test it until probably this weekend, came home to water on my counter from around an electrical oulet from this rain we have been getting and been trying to get it fixed by base housing. oh joy...
i found that the air injection tube that goes to the line that runs down ot the exhaust was burnt through form a header so i fixed that and got it to where it mounted properly away from the header now. just to make sure im doing this correctly, how do i run a compression test on the car? so far ive done it on 2 cylinders but i think i might have done it wrong, since i got a reading of 120, and then a reading of 150? i disconnected the coil wire so the car doesnt start and cranked it over 5 times to build up the compression with the compression test hooked up to one spark plug port at a time with all of the other spark plugs still in
just ran a compression test, not to sure if the numbers are good or bad though.
cylinder 1 = 170
cylinder 2 = 150
clyinder 3 = 150
cylinder 4 = 135
cylinder 5 = 140
cylinder 6 = 140
cylinder 7 = 140
cylinder 8 = 135
i ran the test with no spark plugs in and the motor has also sat since yesterday with out being run
cylinder 1 = 170
cylinder 2 = 150
clyinder 3 = 150
cylinder 4 = 135
cylinder 5 = 140
cylinder 6 = 140
cylinder 7 = 140
cylinder 8 = 135
i ran the test with no spark plugs in and the motor has also sat since yesterday with out being run
Those numbers seem really high. While doing the compression test, did you have the throttle blade opened up? (I've always been told that to do a proper compression test, the throttle needs to be opened up) If not, do the test over again with it opened up and see if your numbers drop down. On a good motor I would really only expect them to be around 120.
Edit: Also, I would just jump the solenoid with the key off. This way you won't be pumping in excess amounts of fuel while the throttle is opened up all the way.
Edit: Also, I would just jump the solenoid with the key off. This way you won't be pumping in excess amounts of fuel while the throttle is opened up all the way.
when i ran the test the throttle blade was closed so ill have to try it again with it open and see how it goes as well as jumping the solenoid with the key off and see if it makes any difference. i appreciate the help! think the numbers could have anything to do with the car sitting for a year and half straight and then sitting on and off for the last 2-3 years only being started once a month or every couple of months until recently?
The compression test numbers you got are good enough for the car to run without major problems. How does the engine respond when you drive the car? Will not move under its own power? Missing at high or low speeds? Surge or bucking at some speeds?
Did you test the voltage coming off the O2 sensors?
I did not see if your H pipe had cats or not. No cats would account for the stinky gas smell in the exhaust.
You may want to list or restate the problems you are still having since this post has gotten past the 1 page mark. It' hard to remember what problems you are still having since you have been busy fixing things.
Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge & use a tee fitting to plumb it in with the existing oil pressure gauge. You can get a pressure gauge from Ace Hardware or some other home supply store and mount it under the hood if all you want to to is verify the function and accuracy of the stock gauge.
Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation..
1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light blue/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light blue/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light blue/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.
How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection » How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.
Be sure to use a gauge restrictor fitting in the pressure line going to the gauge. The restrictor will prevent all of the engine's oil supply from ending up on the pavement before you can stop it if the gauge line fails. I had a gauge line rupture, and the restrictor fitting saved my engine from serious damage.
Did you test the voltage coming off the O2 sensors?
I did not see if your H pipe had cats or not. No cats would account for the stinky gas smell in the exhaust.
You may want to list or restate the problems you are still having since this post has gotten past the 1 page mark. It' hard to remember what problems you are still having since you have been busy fixing things.
Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge & use a tee fitting to plumb it in with the existing oil pressure gauge. You can get a pressure gauge from Ace Hardware or some other home supply store and mount it under the hood if all you want to to is verify the function and accuracy of the stock gauge.
Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation..
1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light blue/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light blue/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light blue/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.
How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection » How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.
Be sure to use a gauge restrictor fitting in the pressure line going to the gauge. The restrictor will prevent all of the engine's oil supply from ending up on the pavement before you can stop it if the gauge line fails. I had a gauge line rupture, and the restrictor fitting saved my engine from serious damage.
well sadly the car does not have tags on it so at this time i am not able to drive it, im trying to get it road worthy before i get tags on since i have my truck im driving currently and would be trying to turn the mustang into a daily driver run then my truck that gets 10mpg.
i did not check the 02 sensors with a voltage meter, when i used the code reader the codes i recieved where for the 02 sensors so i went ahead and changed them out and yes i have high flow cats on my h-pipe.
i will be retyping the problems i am having with the car shortly after i run some errands and price the oil pressure gauge in order for me to verify the gauge that is currently in the car at this time
i did not check the 02 sensors with a voltage meter, when i used the code reader the codes i recieved where for the 02 sensors so i went ahead and changed them out and yes i have high flow cats on my h-pipe.
i will be retyping the problems i am having with the car shortly after i run some errands and price the oil pressure gauge in order for me to verify the gauge that is currently in the car at this time
First of all, start your own thread. It's bad manners to highjack someone else's thread. When someone posts a reply, it's hard to tell if it applies to you or the person who originally started the thread.
There is a 94-95 specific tech section where your post needs to be.
i havent had a chance to work on the car lately, but hopefully ill be able to soon.
Currently, i added marvel mystery oil to the mtor which seemed to help a little bit, but the car has a shake around 1,000 rpms and if its above that or below it it smooths out. The car is overheating still, even after replacing the radiator and adding a 160 degree thermostat. I replaced the air injection hose that goes to the tube that runs down to the catalytic convertors, and pulled off the tube that runs between the heads and cleaned that out real well. The big things right now are the oil pressure gauge fluxuating ( havent had a chance to get an oil pressure gauge so i can tap in to verify if its just a guage or the motor itself), the car overheating, the slight shake, and even after replacing the O2 sensors, the car still has a smell to it as though its running lean. Not sure if any of these issues could be related to clogged catalytic converstors or not, but it had been mentioned to me by a guy who ended up replacing his motor just to find out the cats were clogged all to hell and the motor was in fact good.
Currently, i added marvel mystery oil to the mtor which seemed to help a little bit, but the car has a shake around 1,000 rpms and if its above that or below it it smooths out. The car is overheating still, even after replacing the radiator and adding a 160 degree thermostat. I replaced the air injection hose that goes to the tube that runs down to the catalytic convertors, and pulled off the tube that runs between the heads and cleaned that out real well. The big things right now are the oil pressure gauge fluxuating ( havent had a chance to get an oil pressure gauge so i can tap in to verify if its just a guage or the motor itself), the car overheating, the slight shake, and even after replacing the O2 sensors, the car still has a smell to it as though its running lean. Not sure if any of these issues could be related to clogged catalytic converstors or not, but it had been mentioned to me by a guy who ended up replacing his motor just to find out the cats were clogged all to hell and the motor was in fact good.
Check that the fan clutch is still good and put a new radiator cap on it if you didn't when you installed the new radiator.
how would i check the fan clutch to make sure its still good? i pulled it off the fan the other day and sprayed it with wd-40 but besides that im not really sure how to make sure it really works... and im going to buy a new radiator cap this weekend, im using the old one off the fluidyne radiator i had.
currently i have a set of high flow cats, or what one of the previous owners told me was high flow cats on the car built into the h pipe
thank you again for all of the help, i greatly appreciate it, im really hoping that ill be able to get this car road worthy again soon!
currently i have a set of high flow cats, or what one of the previous owners told me was high flow cats on the car built into the h pipe
thank you again for all of the help, i greatly appreciate it, im really hoping that ill be able to get this car road worthy again soon!
i looked around and i think it should be a thermal fan clutch on the car. If that's the case from what i have been able to find so far, it should not be spinning when i first start up the car until it gets to the operating temperature and engages, but the clutch is engaged as soon as the car starts up. I just wanted to make sure that it is a thermal fan clutch before i change it out and find out i was wrong and it was good the whole time.
If that is the case, could that explain the shakes the car has at around 1,000 rpms at idle?
If that is the case, could that explain the shakes the car has at around 1,000 rpms at idle?
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