Project "true Blues"

[1lugloose]

Welcome and thanks for checking the build thread for my project “True Blues”:
She’s my daily driver with all the hopes of being the ultimate Canyon Crusher and all around Hoonigan’s-best-friend. For right now though, I’m just trying to keep her on the road.

This is a long term project (at least til I get a better job) and I’ll update with pictures/videos as frequently as my budget permits progress updates.

Decent pictures of the car itself can be found in my profile, but for now, there’s not really any significant change to how the car looks from how it does in those pics.

Background:

I picked the car up a year ago with just about all of these mods already installed (some incorrectly) by the previous owner and just under 100k miles on the car. In the past year, I’ve dealt with a blown upper radiator hose, more than one clutch cable install (sadly), a differential fluid change, and standard oil changes. Most recently, after having replaced the oil filter adapter gasket, I needed a tune up so I got me some MSD COP’s, a new thermostat, and new plugs. There’s a thread about the issues that brought up the need for that tune-up, but I’m directing all my future posts and replies to just this one thread.​

Since day one, the car has had some suspension squeaks that later progressed into ridiculous front tire wear and concerning creaks from all over the driver’s side. New Spring Isolators in the rear helped but the creaks still come and go. Those issues and others have been brought up in my tire & suspension thread which I am also abandoning. Just yesterday, that suspension and tire wear issue came to a head, and is finally being dealt with come Monday the 25th.​

Current Status/Issues (112k miles):

• 2 New 245/40/zr18 Fierce Instinct ZR’s up front ($138 a pop and $360 installed with tax)
• Toe reset, but still bad alignment of CC settings (free)
• New COPs and Plugs installed ($490 parts only)
• Service Engine Soon Light still on, codes not scanned yet
  • One plug well was filled with brownish standing water when OEM COP removed
  • Corresponding Plug was covered in oil, guessing it was the dead cylinder
• After light rev to 1K Rpms, car will fall below normal idle and occasionally die and occasionally will still puff out bluish smoke after extended periods of stationary idling on a hot motor. Maybe IAC valve?(6/30/12)
  • Car is otherwise running better than ever

Future Plans (in order of urgency/immediacy):

1. Re install C/C plates and align the car ($150-300) 6/27/12
2. Lug Nut and stud for driver’s front ($50)
3. Steering Re-inforcement/refresh
   1. Maximum Motorsports C/C plates ($210)
   2. Maximum Motorsports Bumpsteer Kit ($140)
   3. Maximum Motorsports Strut Tower Brace ($150)
4. Investigate and solve codes and idle issues.
5. CHEAP used/new rear tire(s) 275-295 width
6. Full EBC Brake job, fluid flush and hopefully SS lines ($650-750)
7. Chassis stiffening ($1,085)
   1. Maximum Motorsports Subframe Connectors ($165)
   2. Kenny Brown Extreme Matrix and Jacking Rails ($270)
   3. Kenny Brown Rear Strut Tower Brace ($150)
8. Race Seats and 1st phase of weight reduction (minimizing interior, maybe Tiger Racing CF hood)
9. Clutch and Flywheel Replacement (Brands undecided)
10. LSD and Gears install (Brands undecided and Gearing TBD)
11. Real Nice Tires x 4 (something like the Michelin Pilot SuperSport)
12. Roll Cage, Non-Airbag* Steering Wheel, Harnesses
13. IRS Swap and Pfitzner Performance TR-3650 Kit
    1. Maybe pair with MasterShift paddle set up
14. 5.0l Aluminator Coyote
    1. Definitely new trans depending on what proves best by that time
15. More Nice Tires x2 (probably)
16. High-End Big Brake Kit (undecided but preferably make an endless kit work somehow)
17. Full Griggs GR-40 catalog
18. Tiger Racing Hood (if not yet already squeezed in)
19. Full Aerodynamics Package using as many High End CF brands as possible.
20. Pfitzner Performance or other reputable brand Sequential Dogbox

Of course at some point, a second vehicle will have to take over the majority of daily driving duties.

 

[1lugloose]

Yesterday, that passenger front tire finally gave up the ghost. Thankfully, the run-flat tires didn't give up before I got my girlfriend/roommate to her unemployment interview. Found a Just Tires nearby and picked up a pair of Fierce Instinct ZR's in 245/40/18, and at $138/tire I can't complain so far.

Because of the K-member, CC plates, and coil-overs, they wouldn't do the alignment but they did check it and came back with some horrific results. The camber on the driver's side is 2.1 deg negative, and 1.5 deg negative on the passenger side. Caster is 4.2 on one side, and 2.1 on the other, and both wheels were about a quarter degree toe'd out. Eek.

So I go to a spot that Just Tires recommended, Bagge and Sons at Washington and Motor, and after having spoken with UPR, I let Paul at Bagge and Sons know that the CC plates were installed incorrectly and that the alignment is totally outta whack. He tells me I can do the CC plate re-install myself and he'll do the alignment after I get the plates re-installed. When you look at the CC plates, you can see that the bean dip who originally installed them put them out of position by 90 deg and on the wrong sides of the car. The adjustment slots should be running the length of the car, not the width.

Come Monday morning, I'll be attempting to flip the CC plates to their correct sides and positioning, then heading to the Bagge & Sons for the alignment at 10am, in hopes of finishing it with enough time left to get me over to work (20 minutes away) not too long after Noon.

Here are some pics of the before:​

​

Passenger Side C/C Plate Drivers Side C/C Plate​

​

Passenger Front Tire Driver Front Tire​

​

 

[Kilgore Trout]

It is actually very common to get water and debris in the plug wells. I rigged up an attachment to my shop vac that ends in a soda straw that i use to vacuum the wells. The wells must be checked every time you wash the engine. Water in there will steam cook and destroy the cop. Debris will fall into the combustion chamber when plugs are pulled. Keep those wells clean and dry FTMFW.

 

[1lugloose]

The new plugs and MSD COPs were installed about a week ago and my service engine soon light is still on. I now have an issue where if I go to give the car a light rev (up to 1200 rpms), like when creeping in traffic, the car falls below normal idle when you lift off and occasionally it will die. Revving to save it generally makes it pop and sound like a misfire until you hold the RPMs up above 2k for a second before lifting off and letting them fall back to normal again. I've tried reseting the computer into it's learn mode by disconnecting the battery, and each time the service engine soon light goes away until I complete the requisite 10 miles plus driving to let it re-learn, then shut it down. As soon as the car is started the next time, the service engine soon light comes on and stays on as it has for a week now.

Additionally, while cruising in 3rd or higher, if the engine speed is between 1750-2500 rpms, and the load on the throttle is very light, the car seems to surge a bit, like an intermittent improvement or loss in power or a throttle input I'm not giving it. Also, when going from coasting down in gear and then re-accelerating, the lightest pedal movement in the first bit of my roll back on to the throttle actually feels like a dead zone, and as soon as I get it responding, it's more than I want and the car feels like it's surging forward more than it should be given the minimal increase in throttle. Do the MSD's respond more sharply and rough-like at low loads? It reminds me of a cheap RC car remote where the throttle trigger is on/off instead of progressive.

 

[1lugloose]

It is actually very common to get water and debris in the plug wells. I rigged up an attachment to my shop vac that ends in a soda straw that i use to vacuum the wells. The wells must be checked every time you wash the engine. Water in there will steam cook and destroy the cop. Debris will fall into the combustion chamber when plugs are pulled. Keep those wells clean and dry FTMFW.

Thanks Kilgore, I fashioned a similar device myself. So do you think it's more than likely just leftovers from an engine wash the previous owner did more than a year ago? I've never sprayed down the engine bay but I did blow the upper radiator hose, so I suppose it could have been from that. I was worried I might have to replace the intake manifold/gasket.

 

[phatboy5015]

What is a NON-ABS steering wheel??

 

[1lugloose]

What is a NON-ABS steering wheel??

LMFAO. Face Palm.

Brain fart. I meant a non-airbag equipped wheel.

 

[phatboy5015]

LMFAO. Face Palm.

Brain fart. I meant a non-airbag equipped wheel.

Oh OK! Cause my car is factory NON-ABS, so I was wondering if I had something special. Lol.

 

[1lugloose]

Oh OK! Cause my car is factory NON-ABS, so I was wondering if I had something special. Lol.

What year is your car? Is it a v6 converted to a V8? Checked your fuses and speed sensors? I really thought all the SN-95's were ABS equipped standard.

 

[phatboy5015]

Mines an 04 GT. All original, with no ABS or traction control.

 

[1lugloose]

Did you ever get the actual CEL code?

Nope, have not yet had them scanned. California law requires service shops to charge you a full hour of labor just to hook up a scanner. My uncle probably has one from when he was a professional mechanic, so I'm gonna see if he can just loan me his.

 

[2000fordstanggt]

buy an x-cal to check DTC's and obviously put a tune on it

 

[1lugloose]

buy an x-cal to check DTC's and obviously put a tune on it

I wish that was in the budget right now.

For the moment, the car is still un-aligned, and I've found a frame and body shop to weld up my cracks for $100 bucks. B & S Auto Body in Venice for my fellow so cal Stangs. That's happening tomorrow at 7 am. Then it'll be back to the alignment shop, Bagge & Sons, for the CC plate re-install and alignment. Tried swapping the plates this morning, but I could not get the big nut off the strut shaft with my only hand tools. Bummer. But at least this should get me rollin right and tight until I can afford to pop the MM 4 bolt CC plates.

 

[007]

You sure you want to dump all that cash into butchering a 112k miles 10 year old Ford? IRS swap and all? Great if you do...but I certainly wouldnt. I'd sell it and buy something that has everything you want to start with. A 2004 BMW M3 for example for 18k ish with the same mileage, great brakes and suspension, more power, paddle shift (SMG) too. You'll do all the work on the stang and be left with an inferior car worth half the value.

Just throwing it out there. I love stangs, but for a well handling car, this platform is just not a great start in my opinion.

Unleash the flamers.

 

[evolucion311]

Mines an 04 GT. All original, with no ABS or traction control.

All GTs came with ABS. Not sure about TC but I am confident they all have antilock brakes.

 

[sneaky98gt]

All GTs came with ABS. Not sure about TC but I am confident they all have antilock brakes.

Nope. It was an option on base models (V6s) and GTs through '04. Neither my 98 GT nor my granddad's '01 GT has ABS. It didn't become standard on the GTs till '05.

 

[Rusty67]

I have a code reader you can use but I wont be back in the valley until the 7th.

 

[1lugloose]

As of this morning, the car is fixed. The welding was completed to the alignment shop's satisfaction yesterday, and the car was aligned to factory specs (-.2 camber, 4.3 positive caster, .1 toe in) today. I was considering going to MM recommended specs across the board, but decided at the last minute to drive the car with the factory specs until I get the MM C/C plates in. When my lady comes back from Japan on the 20th, I'll snap some pics (she's got the camera till then).

Special thanks is due to Kim Strange, an Acura RSX driver who manages a Just Tires at Sepulveda and Jefferson. She made the recommendation to go talk to Paul at Bagge & Sons Alignment Shop. Paul and Tom at Bagge and Sons also deserve a big thanks for not only recomending Bob at B&S Auto Body to weld up my cracks, but for also taking great care of me and my car. All three shops and people were staffed and run by good ol' fashioned red, white, and blue blooded 'Merican Mechanics and they all went out of their way to accommodate my special needs as an enthusiast. 3 other alignment and tire shops refused to work on my car (although all 3 were run by foreigners who do a lot of LA's custom rims...).

The car has settled down so much, I can't believe it's the same car. No more twitchiness when the car is on uneven pavement, quieter and softer over the bumps thanks to the non-run-flat tires, and a much more consistent and confidence inspiring car altogether. The turn-in is definitely slower and heavier as I no longer have a .5 deg toe out, but at least the car rolls a hell of a lot less (thanks to caster settings that are the same on both sides). Surprisingly, the steering is a lot tighter, and I'm not sure who or what to thank for that. Additionally, the majority of the suspension squeak from the front end has been greatly reduced if not eliminated. There's still some chassis flex you can hear, but obviously I have plans on addressing that.

I'm pumped the car is not going to eat its new tires or shoot a strut through the hood, but I haven't yet started to push their limits again. I want to get the lug nut and brakes done before I take it back to canyons. I probably ought to have the rear tire(s) replaced as well before hooning it too hard.

Hopefully I'll have another significant update within the next 2 months. Ideally, the next on the list is a cheap rear tire or two, the lug nut and stud, and the C/C plate, bumpsteer, and ball joint install happening at the same time. Going to fit the resolution of the DTC's in depending on what I find with Rusty67.

Also, I'm considering doing the Steeda X2 balljoints at the same time I have the MM bumpsteer kit and MM C/C plates installed. Has anyone used the Steeda Ball joints? The alignment shop said the stock tie rod ends on the car are holding up fine, with just a little play, and the current ball joints are fine. I'll be replacing them in the name of preventative maintenance/upgrading, as steering is kind of, you know.... important.

You sure you want to dump all that cash into butchering a 112k miles 10 year old Ford? IRS swap and all? Great if you do...but I certainly wouldnt. I'd sell it and buy something that has everything you want to start with...

... and leave Stangnet.com? I don't like bimmer-files: the're too jerseyboy-club-prickish to be of any assistance relative to what we have for our cars. I blame the mind-control hair gel and techno that is mandatory in the sale or resale of any and every BMW M produced since 1996.

All stigma aside, I love the M3 from the E30 to E92, but the parts bills, special tools, and overall headaches that come with any German car, make it more than I know I want to engage myself in, even if I kept the car bone stock and just did regular maintenance (where's the fun in that?). I would but that car is not really in the budget right now.

... A 2004 BMW M3 for example for 18k ish with the same mileage, great brakes and suspension, more power, paddle shift (SMG) too. You'll do all the work on the stang and be left with an inferior car worth half the value.

Just throwing it out there. I love stangs, but for a well handling car, this platform is just not a great start in my opinion.

The IRS swap is the reason I was hell bent on finding an SN-95 New Edge that I could afford at the time I bought this car. Ideally, I would have found a Cobra that wasn't shredded to hell. And honestly, I really don't like a single SMG that I've driven. I contemplate what the MasterShift kit would be like because it's paddles with a clutch pedal. At the end of my build of the stang, I would much rather have a sequential shift dogbox.

More importantly, I probably would still have this stang. It's the best American M3 chaser I can afford. I could have gone for rice, but who wants that? Don't get me wrong, there certainly are a few that I do desire, but they too are out of reach for the moment and again, I'm always going to have an American V8 somewhere in my stable, and it will more than likely be an IRS Mustang.

The plan is to hold onto it and keep it alive for now, and eventually build it up to a track day toy. I know that with what I've experienced with the car in the past year, that I'd be damn lucky to get more than $5 grand for the car if I tried to sell it, and that's hardly enough for an M3. I'm locked in and already submitting to the fact that I'll never get any financial return on my investments, whatsoever. What I will gain is a ton of cheap fun and priceless experience, way sooner and more often than I would if I was saving my pennies to drive an M3.

There was no way for me to afford an M3 or new CTS-V or BRZ (with power add-ons, of course) at the time I bought this stang, and there's definitely no way for me to do anything better in the foreseeable future. So, I'll take my time tinkering and tuning and learning on this car. At least the aftermarket performance parts are generally the same price if not less than OEM.

If anything else, it's a great excuse to dominate the garage and all available space for parts and tool storage.

If you still don't agree, then "beacuse racecar!"

I have a code reader you can use but I wont be back in the valley until the 7th.

Holy hell am I happy you have spoken up. Pleasure to meet you Rusty. Let me know when you're in town and I'll bring by some beer for the favor! I really appreciate the advice you also dropped back in the Suspension and Tire issue thread.

My initial theory: You have a cracked intake manifold with a hairline fracture that only allows the coolant to leak once the temperature and pressure rise enough. This coolant is fouling your COP(s) and causing the cylinders in question to misfire. No spark = no burned fuel = smell of gas coming out.

Do you have catalytic converters on the car? Unburned fuel going into cats will clog and destroy them. Ask me how I know

An alternate theory may be that you have a cracked head or blown gasket. A compression test might help find your problem.

I am subscribing to this thread and will be monitoring your progress. Keep us updated.

I do have cats on the car, and I fear the time spent driving the car before the tune up burned up at least one of my cats. This especially sucks because in california, you have to keep all four. No modification beyond stock replacements is acceptable.

I pray I don't have a compression leak. Reason being, is once I get that, I'll want to rebuild the whole damn thing for safety's sake. Nevertheless, if the codes don't lead to a solution, I'll have to check the cylinders.

If it were valve stems, it would always smoke on start up right? Mine never does.

 

[Rusty67]

Pull the battery cable for 5 minutes to clear all your codes and drive it around for the next few day or so. I'll be off of Wilshire/Western this Saturday morning helping out a friend at an office building. I can bring the code reader with me if I remember.

 

[1lugloose]

Thanks, again Rusty67. Sorry I can't make it over today with work but the car is running better since I reset computer and checked all my connections again.

Seems like I didn't fully click my TPS into it's socket (shameful, right?). Since everything but that was good already, it seems to have fixed the idle issue. 20 miles later and no codes yet.