Front End And Disc Brakes

You can get a set of Moog innet tie rods and then get a set of Baer bump steer outer tie rods if you want to go fancy. If you want to stay in the more budget area get a set of Moog outer tie rods. Check out Opentracker racing for a roller idler arm.
 
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Wilwood pads are available from Summit, Jegs and a bunch of other large parts warehouses in various compounds. Many hot rod shops keep them on the shelf too.

In my personal opinion, I wouldn't even consider an OEM based brake kit unless you are trying to keep your car factory appearing or period correct. For a couple hundred bucks extra you can get something that is substantially better and that is engineered and manufactured in Southern California.

Whether you purchased them from us or not, I would say the same thing.

~Carl
 
You can get a set of Moog inner tie rods and then get a set of Baer bump steer outer tie rods if you want to go fancy. If you want to stay in the more budget area get a set of Moog outer tie rods. Check out Opentracker racing for a roller idler arm.
Exactly. We make a bump steer outer too. The thing to remember is a bump steer kit isn't just a bolt it on and drive part. You need to graph the suspension for it to be installed correctly otherwise the car will handle worse. Its about a five hour process. :eek:
 
Carl, CSRP stuff is USA made. Also, the factory reproduction 65-67 brakes are K/H type 4 piston callipers with an 11" rotor and will clear the factory 14" steel wheels. It is actually a very good braking system. If he was going to get the 68 and later single piston floating caliper I would agree with you but the earlier 4 piston setup is just fine for most cars. The Willwood stuff is great but he may not want to spend the extra money on it. What size is the rotor on the Willwood kit you are talking about, 11" or 12" ?

As far as bump steer setup, you can just setup the kit to be the same as the factory tie rod and go from there. It doesn't have to be a 5 hour process, you can get it quite close by eyeballing it. To get it perfect definately requires some fine tuning and it can take an afternoon to complete especially if you have never done it before.

You can just install it yourself and have a good shop knock it out in about 2 hours when you have it alligned.
 
Sorry, I wasn't trying to insinuate that the CSRP kits are made outside the US. I was trying to highlight that Wilwood designs and manufactures everything in house. I'm sure the CSRP kit is great and I don't want to say anything bad about them as a company either.

There are a lot of brake options out there. Any sort of upgrade to the factory stoppers on the classic cars is money well spent. But, to me, it's the last place to cut corners.

The kit I have been referencing is fairly recent. It's an 11" rotor. It used to be 11-3/4 but now with the smaller rotor it maintains the stock hub width +.09" instead of +.75" per side. Details HERE.
 
My rims are not the stock 14", I am actually running the Edelbrock 454 rims, that sort of look like the Eleanor rims. They are 17" rims if I remember correctly. And actually, I have to do some adjustments because my front left tire just barely touches the fender at the 9 o'clock position on the wheel when turning. The right side is fine. But as I do all of this work, I figure I should be able to adjust that somehow.

As long as the kit is pretty much bolt on to my stock spindle, as I didn't want to swap that. I want to say right now it is 8" manual drum brake system? I don't remember exactly. And I have the 8-inch rear end. And my car is currently automatic, but I have everything needed to swap the tranny for a T-5. That is the other part of the project, but like I said, already have everything for that. I believe that some of the brake kits have issues with manual transmissions, but I don't know if that is only for stock manual transmissions, or any/all manual even if it is a conversion. Most of the parts I purchased were from Modern Driveline.
 
I do have a brake booster, so I will have to figure that one out.

Looking at Wilwood, the SRP rotors are all black. How are these coated, and does the part that the brake pad rides just polish the surface? I wouldn't mind having a rotor that doesn't rust as I don't like the rusty drums showing through the rim right now.​
 
Both the CSRP and SSBC kits using the OE K-H 4-piston calipers are no-brainers as it's what was on there originally and work great. If you need more aggressive pads you can go with Porterfield R4S's. I'd stick with drums on the rear - you can go 10" x 2.5" shoes which is what Shelby did on the "R" model GT-350's; plenty of swept area there.

FYI - I have the OE long shaft 16:1 steering box with Shelby Quick-Steer Pitman and Idler arms and the response is immediate with fantastic road feel. If you get your box rebuilt right it will feel like a new car.