Whos Carbed And Why? Looking For Input...

And I'd go one better than that, and use a Summit carb @ 279.00. Which will add another 70.00 to the savings bill.
AND
The optional EFI Dyno tune needs to be moved into the "required" column, therefore adding another 400 bones to the pro EFI total.
It's gonna take a while before your gas milage savings equate to that difference, Jrichker.:stick:
 
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This is an open invitaion to do a like comparison. We all would benefit if you can go off and create a Bill of Materials from reilable vendors that shows savings over what was listed. Until that happens, it's just talk...

Do I reeeally need to go that far? I can if you like though, here goes:

Starting with the distributor for a mere $50, lets not forget the marvel that is eBay where i can get an HEI disy and save ANOTHER $100
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-289-30...IRES-6502-R-KIT-/350586740012?forcev4exp=true

Intake for $172, which i'm also certain i've bought for $160 at Advanced Autoparts
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WND-8020/

Carb for $350
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-4776C/
Or if you wanna save ANOTHER $100 off the carb, if this is a street car and you don't need or want a double pumper
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-1850C/


So already, my total saving including doing the tuning myself is:
-$475 for tuning myself
-$200 for the carb (or potentially -$300 for a street carb)
-$80 for the intake
-$120 for the lack of a Duraspark/coil/resistor wire, since you can use the EFI coil with a HEI disy
-$20 because i don't see why removing the wiring harness is going to cost you another $20 in "miscellaneous wiring and connectors"

That's $895-$995 depending on which carb you choose. I'm not gonna bother finding links to all the fuel sump crap because i think i've made my point already. That's using all brand new never used parts.
 
This is an open invitation to do a like comparison. We all would benefit if you can go off and create a Bill of Materials from reliable vendors that shows savings over what was listed. Until that happens, it's just talk...


One thing that puzzles me is that there is a $300 difference between carb and EFI intakes. Granted the EFI intakes use a Tuned Runner design to get more torque, but there isn't $300 more engineering and aluminum in an EFI intake manifold.
I would do it exactly as David has listed. I believe a Stealth to be a better intake for a better price, and I too would use a HEI distributor from either Jegs or Summit as well.
I'd say the reason for the intake expense is that most are two piece designs (Are they not?)
 
It's easier than it sounds, if you tune it yourself and save the $475, the $250 less on a Holley, another $90 off the intake, that's already over $800. Also it's very simple to make your own pickup to replace the EFI pump instead of spending all that cash on a sump. It can be done safely and reliably, or you could just swap the tank out for an '85 spec tank and skip a bunch of those little fees. I'd also opt for a mechanical pump and swap over the timing cover, but that's personal preference. Plus, instead of going the Duraspark route, you could spend $145 on a HEI distributor, which will save you another $35 for the Duraspark and shave a considerable amount off the wiring bill at the same time. So, add all that up and i'd be damn near right at the $1000 mark. :nice:

My son's car was carbed, I bought it as a roller. It's set up using the efi pickup without the efi pump, and a Summit/Holley style pump mounted below the tank already. Not a difficult set up. I could be wrong, but I think they even used the factory fuel lines.. And a decent inline filter can be had at Autozone for $5.00. I bought one a few weeks ago.
 
I'm also of the opinion that it's a bad idea to completely gut the EFI wiring harness. I'm not a complete EFI hater, and i like the option of changing your mind someday down the road, so leaving all that stuff in there and maybe tucking it behind a fender is a good idea.
 
Long about now I feel a little like the first mammal to tell the dinosaurs that there would come a time when they would be extinct...

The dinosaurs are laughing at me...all the time while they are typing away on their smart phones, Ipads, tablets and computers... How ironic....
 
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Long about now I feel a little like the first mammal to tell the dinosaurs that there would come a time when they would be extinct...

The dinosaurs are laughing at me...all the time while they are typing away on their smart phones, Ipads, tablets and computers... How ironic....


But see, here's the real irony. I'll sit here and tell you that EFI is superior in every way except 1) price and 2) user friendliness, whereas of course #2 is highly subjective and with the glory of handheld tuners and laptop tuning and such, EFI is probably easier than a carb no matter how much carb tuning experience you have. My point is simply that carbs may be obsolete, but they still work, and they work quite well if you know what you're doing, and unless you're climbing Pike's Peak or you live in a frozen tundra, there's no reason you can't have a car that gets good mileage, has good driveability, makes awesome power, and is reliable all at the same time.

For me though, it really just comes down to two basic arguments: NA vs. power adders. For an NA build, i'm carb all day everyday, but for a power adder i'd prefer to stick with EFI except maybe for nitrous. Blowers and turbos just need EFI in my opinion, especially for a street driven car.
 
But see, here's the real irony. I'll sit here and tell you that EFI is superior in every way except 1) price and 2) user friendliness, whereas of course #2 is highly subjective and with the glory of handheld tuners and laptop tuning and such, EFI is probably easier than a carb no matter how much carb tuning experience you have. My point is simply that carbs may be obsolete, but they still work, and they work quite well if you know what you're doing, and unless you're climbing Pike's Peak or you live in a frozen tundra, there's no reason you can't have a car that gets good mileage, has good driveability, makes awesome power, and is reliable all at the same time.

For me though, it really just comes down to two basic arguments: NA vs. power adders. For an NA build, i'm carb all day everyday, but for a power adder i'd prefer to stick with EFI except maybe for nitrous. Blowers and turbos just need EFI in my opinion, especially for a street driven car.

Again^^ I don't need to add anything.
 
No way I'd take a perfectly running EFI fox mustang and switch it to carb. However, if it was chronically problematic, I could see why some, especially if they're familiar with carbonated engines would consider it.
 
No way I'd take a perfectly running EFI fox mustang and switch it to carb. However, if it was chronically problematic, I could see why some, especially if they're familiar with carbonated engines would consider it.

But that wasn't the question. It was never about swapping over a perfectly running efi system and swapping over to carb. Op was asking for opinions on why people use a carb.
 
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Face you carb haters, carbs are here to stay and will never go away. When digital watches came around, people thought the old analog watches were dinosaurs. It's not always about performance, even though IMO you really aren't giving up any with a carb. Sometimes it's about simplicity and doing things yourself.
 
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Face you carb haters, carbs are here to stay and will never go away. When digital watches came around, people thought the old analog watches were dinosaurs. It's not always about performance, even though IMO you really aren't giving up any with a carb. Sometimes it's about simplicity and doing things yourself.
This is why points ignition systems rule!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They are simple and you can adjust them yourself. No need to mess with all of them electronicals when a perfectly good points distributor will get the job done right? They are cheap and reliable and that is why points distributors will never go away!:rolleyes:
 
This is why points ignition systems rule!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They are simple and you can adjust them yourself. No need to mess with all of them electronicals when a perfectly good points distributor will get the job done right? They are cheap and reliable and that is why points distributors will never go away!:rolleyes:

LOL, we can split this hair as many ways as you want, but the reality is EFI has been around for at least 50 years and yet carbs are still here aren't they? Guys will be running and WINNING with carbs for as long as the EPA allows it.
 
LOL, we can split this hair as many ways as you want, but the reality is EFI has been around for at least 50 years and yet carbs are still here aren't they? Guys will be running and WINNING with carbs for as long as the EPA allows it.
EFI has been around for "at least 50 years" wow, I am 52 and I do not remember EFI back in the day. Now Bosh mechanical fuel injection has been around a hell of a long time, but EFI, don't think so, at least not 50 plus years.
 
EFI has been around for "at least 50 years" wow, I am 52 and I do not remember EFI back in the day. Now Bosh mechanical fuel injection has been around a hell of a long time, but EFI, don't think so, at least not 50 plus years.

My mistake. I was referring to the '50s Bel Airs that were available with mechanical fuel injection, but i guess technically the concept has been around closer to 90 years. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_injection#History_and_development

Even if we just say EFI has been around since the early '80s, that's 30 flippin years. That's long enough. Hell, gunpowder and guns have been around for how long now? People still hunt with bows, because they work. They might be more challenging to some people who don't care to learn or do things themselves, but that doesn't change the fact that they're effective and get the job done.

Carbs will be here until the EPA outlaws them, or until there's no gas left.