First off, is the dizzy just short for the distributor? I thought it was but someone said they thought it was an actual part of the distributor. If you take the cap off of the dizzy and you try and turn the dizzy and it moves some, is that a sign that the gears are worn and/or the dizzy is in need of changing? Mine isn't doing that but I had a mechanic tell me that he believes that that might be a sign of one being or going bad. So to you guys who actually should know alot about stangs just wondering what you have noticed with the dizzy actually starting to or going bad?
Proper Dianosis Of A Possible Bad Distributor
- Thread starter from6to8
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Hef5.0weisen
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Dizzy refers to the distributor.
Pretty simple piece, not much to go wrong with it. Wear parts are the cap and rotor, cheap and easy to replace.
Common cause for replacing a dizzy is the PIP sensor going out. Little sensor that tells the computer where the rotor is to reference the firing order and pulse the fuel injectors. That sensor can be replaced fairly easily as well, but often the entire unit is replaced.
You can pull the whole thing out easily and inspect the gear....my only concern would be a chunk of tooth missing or serious gouging on the face of the gear. Are you turning the rotor??? There is usually some slop in it as it's plastic (rotor) sitting on metal (shaft) with only one spline.
Good Luck!
Pretty simple piece, not much to go wrong with it. Wear parts are the cap and rotor, cheap and easy to replace.
Common cause for replacing a dizzy is the PIP sensor going out. Little sensor that tells the computer where the rotor is to reference the firing order and pulse the fuel injectors. That sensor can be replaced fairly easily as well, but often the entire unit is replaced.
You can pull the whole thing out easily and inspect the gear....my only concern would be a chunk of tooth missing or serious gouging on the face of the gear. Are you turning the rotor??? There is usually some slop in it as it's plastic (rotor) sitting on metal (shaft) with only one spline.
Good Luck!
im gona try a new tfi module and see if that helps. I've heard they can make a car buck, jerk at low rpms
Before throwing parts at it either read up on pulling codes like this or for $25 buy a code reader like this one. You will save big $$$ with a bit of diagnostic help.
Now, I'm puzzled. You started off asking about the distributor then go on to say you want to replace the TFI module because you heard that they can make the car buck and jerk at low rpms. I personally would look elsewhere. For example, when was the MAF sensor last cleaned or the air and fuel filters changed. Tested the fuel pressure? The point is there are many possible causes and the notion of just buying parts in the "hope" it will fix the problem can be a very costly approach to fixing what otherwise might be very easy and perhaps close to free.
Now, I'm puzzled. You started off asking about the distributor then go on to say you want to replace the TFI module because you heard that they can make the car buck and jerk at low rpms. I personally would look elsewhere. For example, when was the MAF sensor last cleaned or the air and fuel filters changed. Tested the fuel pressure? The point is there are many possible causes and the notion of just buying parts in the "hope" it will fix the problem can be a very costly approach to fixing what otherwise might be very easy and perhaps close to free.
recently cleaned maf, fuel filter changed about 5-8k miles or so ago, KnN filter cleaned, tested fuel pressure, tried stock fuel pressure on to see if would make a difference. Smelled the vacuum line and didnt smell fuel with either regulator. I know for a fact I can take the module back to autozone if it doesn't solve my problem so that's my piece of mind with trying it out to see it helps. Matter of fact i will get 2 from them and try both it neccessary. The pip was also changed on the dizzy and any issues I have had related to it when I changed it , it always fixed the issue so I'm sure the dizzy is fine. Also cleaned IAC. "When car is running and I unplug the IAC, the car wants to cut off. But yeah i i will also pull codes again with the koeo and koer tests.
Hef5.0weisen
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Well, that was my .02 on a distributor.
However, looking at your sig and now that you mention bucking at low RPM, I imagine your issues are developing from the cam, Maf/injectors. May be an issue with the parts not wanting to play nice together...
However, looking at your sig and now that you mention bucking at low RPM, I imagine your issues are developing from the cam, Maf/injectors. May be an issue with the parts not wanting to play nice together...
Possibly from the things i have read regarding alphabet cams, 94-95 computers, ect.
earlier you said am I turning the rotor? You mean trying to turn it as I turn the dizzy to see if the dizzy freely moves? Only time I have noticed the rotor will turn is if I was restabbing the dizzy
Hef5.0weisen
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
To clarify, I meant...with the distributor installed, bolted down and tight, cap off, are you trying to turn the rotor? Hence the plastic part (rotor) sitting on a metal shaft with only one spline engaging the two....and yes there will be some wiggle room in it.
Frankly I wouldn't worry about the ignition stuff, it's all relable. Might think about some method of altering the computer to work nice with all the aftermarket parts....self tuner, dyno tune, mail order chip etc.
again, Good Luck!
Frankly I wouldn't worry about the ignition stuff, it's all relable. Might think about some method of altering the computer to work nice with all the aftermarket parts....self tuner, dyno tune, mail order chip etc.
again, Good Luck!
yeah the guy who told me if the dizzy doesn't move as in how you were saying, i guess he was saying it shouldnt have any play bolted down. And i guess that includes the rotor also. Maybe he means it shouldnt be sloppily moving. Car was tuned back in 05 in Greensboro NC but the guy passed away in 2008. I wish he was still living cause I have some questions and stuff i wanted to ask. But talking to alot of guys about my situation it appears overall the tune should of been fine . It was an autologic 2000 chip though and noone does them anymore
Are these the mods that required the tuner chip in 2005 and has anything been done since then? Is the problem the low rpm bucking and jerking? How does the car run otherwise and are there any starting and idling problems? IIRC the Autologic chips were an off the shelf one size fits all item. I'm thinking that the Autologic chip needs to be tossed and a tuned SCT chip for your car installed.
yes these are the mods that the chip was done for. Yes the problems are the low rpm buck and jerk and it hasnt always been that bad. Car idles fine for the most part. I have however had issues with in 80 degree or above weather when humid, upon cranking up after I stop to a gas station or whatever, when i crank back up it would want to cut off it i didnt give it gas. Once I took off, it was fine until I stopped again and cut off then crank back up. This problem only persisted in summer or when weather was 80 above and humid. Seems whenever my car would buck and jerk in previous years, it wasnt as bad as it is now. I might just reset the idle over and this time set it with the idle bypass screw not turned out as much. In the instructions it said you shouldnt have to turn the screw pass 2 full turns which I didnt, but I'm thinking maybe a little adjustment in would help. So I might just try the whole procedure again and see if it helps. It wont hurt nothing.
Car feels pretty fine overall but maybe the tune could be better with another chip. I'm just gona do these few things and try some other stuff, to which I can take the parts back if it doesnt solve the issue. If those all doesn't work I will just get a new tune one day
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
I think a mail order tune would fix you right up. What you are describing are problems 94/95's seem to be plagued with. I know most of mine have had the issues you speak of. A proper tune will eliminate all those issues AND will uncover hidden horsepower as well!
did you do a mail order tune and how much was it?
I sure don't want to spend 500 bucks again which was why i havent gotten another dyno tune yet. I mean i was leaning toward it though just to get the numbers and let them tweak stuff right there while they work on it.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
I would never use a mail tune for forced induction. The initial tune is what costs the most. After that most dyno shops charge less to make small changes for parts you add later.
forced induction is a SC or turbo right? If not, is that what u just said would fix me up lol?
yeah trouble is with mine the guy who did mine passed away in 08 and was only one working there so no wonder when i was calling phone just rang and rang. Google the business and didnt find anything so I guess it was closed down. Also it was an autologic 2000 and noone does those anymore so yes i would have to pay for a new tune which I really didnt and dont wana do.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Yeah, SC or turbo. For boost I recommend getting a dyno tune so everything can be monitored. With N/A there's more room for error and those errors won't grenade your engine!
so are you saying alot of guys with NA's go with mail orders because there's not much tweaking anyway that can be done with NA cars? Some guys replied to one of my threads about tuning and was saying anyway there wouldnt be much done except tweak fp and something else they said but for that much money I was like man I sure don't wana spend 500 bucks just for a few adjustments. Now I understand a new tune might completely solve my problem but I guess I just seem to fathom having spent 500 back in 05 though it was back then, then having to spend that again. So I was almost to where I wanted to get it tune done but if I can do so for a few hundred bucks and be maybe the same or 90-95 % of what a dyno tune would do, I would be all for that.
Pro dyno in Charlotte NC said if they did my car and I wasnt satisfied, they would only charge me for dyno time and they would take the chip back. So that peace of mind would be nice but still would be 500 bucks if satistfied lol
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Here's the issue. You have one of the most picky computers Ford ever designed in your car. It was designed with BRAND NEW SELECT parts in mind. Meaning what they installed on that engine from the factory is all the computer is designed to run. As the car ages it actually falls out of the set parameters the computer is designed to run in. So even bone stock high mileage 94/95s have idle and drivability issues because the factory tune just can't cope with it any more. So you get a tune to fix all the shortcomings of the factory EEC.
Now, you have a modified engine with a lot of goodies on it. The computer is confused as hell right now and is doing all it can just to start and run the car. When you get a tune, mail order or otherwise, it will tell the computer what to do with all those parts you added. It's like learning a new language. Those new parts are speaking gibberish to you computer right now, you need something to teach it to understand. That's what a chip does.
Also, there are many functions in the stock EEC tune that hinder performance. There are strategies that pull timing between shifts to save on drivetrain parts. Your fuel and spark curves are far from optimum. Stock tunes tend to be overly rich in my experiences.
Then you have things like fan operation. A tune can make the fans come on sooner to keep your engine cooler. The stock tune has it coming on WAYY to late. They do this so the engine will be more EPA compliant since it burns more hydrocarbons when it's hot. But heat costs performance. A tune will fix this issue as well.
So you see, there is FAR FAR more to tuning an EFI car than timing and fuel pressure. A tune for a car as modified as yours is absolutely crucial! I have a feeling you'll gain so much power and drivability with a tune that it will be hard to keep a smile off your face when you drive the car!!!
Now, you have a modified engine with a lot of goodies on it. The computer is confused as hell right now and is doing all it can just to start and run the car. When you get a tune, mail order or otherwise, it will tell the computer what to do with all those parts you added. It's like learning a new language. Those new parts are speaking gibberish to you computer right now, you need something to teach it to understand. That's what a chip does.
Also, there are many functions in the stock EEC tune that hinder performance. There are strategies that pull timing between shifts to save on drivetrain parts. Your fuel and spark curves are far from optimum. Stock tunes tend to be overly rich in my experiences.
Then you have things like fan operation. A tune can make the fans come on sooner to keep your engine cooler. The stock tune has it coming on WAYY to late. They do this so the engine will be more EPA compliant since it burns more hydrocarbons when it's hot. But heat costs performance. A tune will fix this issue as well.
So you see, there is FAR FAR more to tuning an EFI car than timing and fuel pressure. A tune for a car as modified as yours is absolutely crucial! I have a feeling you'll gain so much power and drivability with a tune that it will be hard to keep a smile off your face when you drive the car!!!
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Tell you what, give Don a call over at Lasotaracing. He can set you up with a mail order tune for under 200 bucks and I guarantee it will be spot on. This guy KNOWS his 94/95 5.0's and you won't find anyone who can do it better. http://www.lasotaracing.com/MOCHIPS.html#anchor
yeah even with the autologic tune i have now he fixed it where the fan comes on sooner, deleted CEL for egr, ect. So from what you just said, are you saying a mail order will be just as effective as a tune or that an actual tune would be sort of night and day from mail order to dyno tune?
Similar threads
