Proper Dianosis Of A Possible Bad Distributor

[99FiveOh]

A dyno tune will usually yield more accurate results because no two motors are exactly the same. However, when you're running a N/A combo there's no worries about blown head gaskets from too much timing or melting pistons from detonation. From what I read in this thread you have changed the parts since your chip was burnt. So the tune will be off now.

So for your combo, if you really don't care what the numbers are, a mail order tune will be perfect. Call Don and talk to him, he is very knowledgeable.

 

[from6to8]

Tell you what, give Don a call over at Lasotaracing. He can set you up with a mail order tune for under 200 bucks and I guarantee it will be spot on. This guy KNOWS his 94/95 5.0's and you won't find anyone who can do it better. http://www.lasotaracing.com/MOCHIPS.html#anchor

just called him and he said they no longer do the mail orders for 88-95's. He said it was just a PITA with the back and forth of sending chips out and changing stuff. He said only option for me would be the QH which would end up being around same price as a dyno tune probably but the full control would be nice. Also would need someone who knows how to do it for me as I aint messing with it not knowing what I'm doing lol. So yeah i guess I have some decisions to make

 

[99FiveOh]

Hmm that's odd since this page said they do: http://www.lasotaracing.com/MOCHIPS.html#anchor

You could try these guys: http://www.jmschip.com/

 

[from6to8]

A dyno tune will usually yield more accurate results because no two motors are exactly the same. However, when you're running a N/A combo there's no worries about blown head gaskets from too much timing or melting pistons from detonation. From what I read in this thread you have changed the parts since your chip was burnt. So the tune will be off now.

So for your combo, if you really don't care what the numbers are, a mail order tune will be perfect. Call Don and talk to him, he is very knowledgeable.

No, only thing I have did was swap out the fp regulator with the stock one to see if it would solve any of my issues but didnt so i put the other back on. Everything in my sig was there when the tune was done.

 

[from6to8]

Hmm that's odd since this page said they do: http://www.lasotaracing.com/MOCHIPS.html#anchor

You could try these guys: http://www.jmschip.com/

unless they recently just stopped

 

[99FiveOh]

No, only thing I have did was swap out the fp regulator with the stock one to see if it would solve any of my issues but didnt so i put the other back on. Everything in my sig was there when the tune was done.

That's odd then. Was it ever running correctly since you got it tuned?

 

[from6to8]

Hmm that's odd since this page said they do: http://www.lasotaracing.com/MOCHIPS.html#anchor

You could try these guys: http://www.jmschip.com/

he said single burns are 275 and multiple 325. Any changes later will be 80 bucks. So gotta think about that

 

[from6to8]

That's odd then. Was it ever running correctly since you got it tuned?

it ran pretty good after the tune but i think i always had that 8o degree and above and humid weather where it would cut off if i didnt give it gas after cutting it off. Once i took off it was fine. I think it could of been better though

 

[99FiveOh]

it ran pretty good after the tune but i think i always had that 8o degree and above and humid weather where it would cut off if i didnt give it gas after cutting it off. Once i took off it was fine. I think it could of been better though

Sounds like the classic "tuner doesn't know crap about 94/95's" problem. Not every tuner who can work magic with 87-93 Mustangs can successfully tune our cars.

 

[from6to8]

Sounds like the classic "tuner doesn't know crap about 94/95's" problem. Not every tuner who can work magic with 87-93 Mustangs can successfully tune our cars.

i have heard that as well lol. I remember the guy scratching his head some during my tune. I was a noob back then too and didnt really know everything to ask and stuff. I will call a few tuners and see what the cost will be in case yrs down the road I go with a 331 or something and see how much it would be to retune the car. So that vs just getting a QH and getting someone off one of the forums who will do my car for me and knows what they are doing. I might want to go with the QH and at least won't have to spend any money ever again possibly

 

[Don 95Vert]

Our website does say we do chips, but ONLY for 100% factory stock cars - no power adders.
The best option for anybody with a 1988-1995 is to tune it yourself. It is not brain surgery and once you 'get it' you will be forever free of dynotune costs. 99% of the tuners out there are average intelligence - and some shops also perpetuated the myth that that tuning is a secret arcane art - it's not. On a mechanically sound car it's not too difficult. Another myth is 1994-95 cars are real finicky and difficult to tune - they are just like anything esle, more complicated than a Fox body, but compared to 05+ with drive by wire, caveman simple. I sell a LOT of packages and people pick it up really fast and are much happier tuning themselves. Our just released Ultimate Tuning Guide walks you through the basics and advanced tuning. The package is cheaper than a lot of dynotunes but YOU keep control of your own car. You do need a wideband for a power adder car and should check it at a dyno for an NA car to make sure it's right. Something to consider!
Don

 

[99FiveOh]

True 94/95's aren't difficult to tune but they are different animals. And only being built for 2 years many tuners will skip over them and not even take the time to learn them since they make up such a small percentage of their customer base. What I said is that the stock 94/95 CABAZA strategy doesn't like people messing with it too much under the hood. It has a very narrow window of understanding on how to adapt to aftermarket parts, most notably camshafts.

I too want to go with a QH but am a little confused as to exacty what I need to get up and tuning myself. I hear different things from different people. Perhaps you Don could shed some light on this for us. What exactly do we need to buy in order to begin tuning. To my knowledge all one needs is the QH hardware and Binary Editor software. But then people talk about a dongle and talk about definitions, etc etc.

 

[from6to8]

True 94/95's aren't difficult to tune but they are different animals. And only being built for 2 years many tuners will skip over them and not even take the time to learn them since they make up such a small percentage of their customer base. What I said is that the stock 94/95 CABAZA strategy doesn't like people messing with it too much under the hood. It has a very narrow window of understanding on how to adapt to aftermarket parts, most notably camshafts.

I too want to go with a QH but am a little confused as to exacty what I need to get up and tuning myself. I hear different things from different people. Perhaps you Don could shed some light on this for us. What exactly do we need to buy in order to begin tuning. To my knowledge all one needs is the QH hardware and Binary Editor software. But then people talk about a dongle and talk about definitions, etc etc.

I forgot to mention that my car had lately started to seem like when cranking up, it doesn't crank up as powerful sounding. Seems like it takes just a split second longer , if that even sounds like it makes a difference. I just notice it in how it sounds and cranks. Almost like maybe a little flooding or something but I have diagnosed for a leaky injector and possible bad regulator and they check out fine. I think someone on another forum said could be a module problem and thats where earlier in this thread I said I was going to try a new module. Matter of fact, get 2 from autozone and try both. I can take back if no changes.

Called Don back and we talked bout 10 mins. What I learned was that with the chip and a base tune, 90 % of the tune would be done and that with the instructions and just reading, he said he has only had a few guys out of the many many he has sell and sells per day tht didnt get it. He said it's really not hard at all. He said, if i remember correctly its $325 for the chip or 289 for the chip, and for something else he said it would be $394. That is without the binary editor which he doesnt sell but I would have to get directly from , I forgot where he said and he said its about $89-100 for that and the editor is what allows you to make changes.

 

[from6to8]

Our website does say we do chips, but ONLY for 100% factory stock cars - no power adders.
The best option for anybody with a 1988-1995 is to tune it yourself. It is not brain surgery and once you 'get it' you will be forever free of dynotune costs. 99% of the tuners out there are average intelligence - and some shops also perpetuated the myth that that tuning is a secret arcane art - it's not. On a mechanically sound car it's not too difficult. Another myth is 1994-95 cars are real finicky and difficult to tune - they are just like anything esle, more complicated than a Fox body, but compared to 05+ with drive by wire, caveman simple. I sell a LOT of packages and people pick it up really fast and are much happier tuning themselves. Our just released Ultimate Tuning Guide walks you through the basics and advanced tuning. The package is cheaper than a lot of dynotunes but YOU keep control of your own car. You do need a wideband for a power adder car and should check it at a dyno for an NA car to make sure it's right. Something to consider!
Don

just called to see how much a wideband check is and one place said 60 and another said 65 for a NA car

 

[from6to8]

I tried a new module and still the same thing going on with it seeming like even upon intial cranking, it seems as it is not crank like its supposed to but it does crank. Almost seems like its flooding, sounds like its flooding and my car never did that before. Only time it has done that is in 80 degree or above temps when it is humid. And then it didnt do it when the car was completely cold, only if i cut off and go to crank it back.

 

[Don 95Vert]

Any tuner who is tuning >1995 cars should be able to handle 94-95's if not look for another shop. From someone who has tuned thousands of cars, including many 94-95's, including our own - they are just not difficult to tune. You need the right tuning tools is all. All the SCT dealers we have trained have no issue with them. This is an old myth that started right when there was a transition from Fox bodies to 94's - they were way different back then. They are mod friendly too - our old 95 started as an NA car running 13.4's with H/I/Gears (it's a heavy convertible), transitioned to a KB blower on a stock 302, except for heads that went 11.2/123, the quickest KB around on drag radials back then, then it transitioned to a 351 with an 88mm turbo - made over 700 through a C4. Currently it's NA 420+ motor that has gone mid tens. Next season a Dart block goes in it with a 250 shot and better heads. It had been tuned with SCT initially, now it has a QH - OH, and it currently runs E85...

To use a QH, you need the QH ($249) and Binary Editor - the latest version comes with a dongle rather than the old software 'key' based security. These are sold right from the EEC Edtor/Binary Editor website For an NA car this may be all you need - for a power adder car, you also need a good wideband, one that does A/F, Lambda (all fuels have alcohol and you need Lambda readings and also MAF Volts - necessary for tuning. One of the tuner tools I previously referred to is the Zeitronix wideband - it does all that, plus one additional 0-5v logging source, TPS%, RPM and you can get a boost sensor and EGT sensor if you like. This and the QH make is EASY to tune any car - good data = good tune.

The Ultimate Tuning Guide walks you through setting up the tune, logging and applying the logs to the tune. And what to do if you have 'issues'. This book has been gobbled up by many shops,some of the biggest most popular use it and the others in the series, but it is simple enough for the novice.

Hope this helps!

 

[from6to8]

Any tuner who is tuning >1995 cars should be able to handle 94-95's if not look for another shop. From someone who has tuned thousands of cars, including many 94-95's, including our own - they are just not difficult to tune. You need the right tuning tools is all. All the SCT dealers we have trained have no issue with them. This is an old myth that started right when there was a transition from Fox bodies to 94's - they were way different back then. They are mod friendly too - our old 95 started as an NA car running 13.4's with H/I/Gears (it's a heavy convertible), transitioned to a KB blower on a stock 302, except for heads that went 11.2/123, the quickest KB around on drag radials back then, then it transitioned to a 351 with an 88mm turbo - made over 700 through a C4. Currently it's NA 420+ motor that has gone mid tens. Next season a Dart block goes in it with a 250 shot and better heads. It had been tuned with SCT initially, now it has a QH - OH, and it currently runs E85...

To use a QH, you need the QH ($249) and Binary Editor - the latest version comes with a dongle rather than the old software 'key' based security. These are sold right from the EEC Edtor/Binary Editor website For an NA car this may be all you need - for a power adder car, you also need a good wideband, one that does A/F, Lambda (all fuels have alcohol and you need Lambda readings and also MAF Volts - necessary for tuning. One of the tuner tools I previously referred to is the Zeitronix wideband - it does all that, plus one additional 0-5v logging source, TPS%, RPM and you can get a boost sensor and EGT sensor if you like. This and the QH make is EASY to tune any car - good data = good tune.

The Ultimate Tuning Guide walks you through setting up the tune, logging and applying the logs to the tune. And what to do if you have 'issues'. This book has been gobbled up by many shops,some of the biggest most popular use it and the others in the series, but it is simple enough for the novice.

Hope this helps!

This mechanic that used to work on aircraft mechanics is pretty good and though he is over 60 now and has a bad back, I think he will want to tackle something like this so I will talk to him about it and he can read up on it, and decide if he things he wants to do it for me, and teach me some things along the way. If not him, I know a few other guys that will probably be willing to help me out also.

 

[from6to8]

This mechanic that used to work on aircraft mechanics is pretty good and though he is over 60 now and has a bad back, I think he will want to tackle something like this so I will talk to him about it and he can read up on it, and decide if he things he wants to do it for me, and teach me some things along the way. If not him, I know a few other guys that will probably be willing to help me out also.

I've been reading some stuff on fuel filters and I did change mine about 8-10k miles ago and usually don't change till at about 12-15, somewhere in that range or maybe a little over. Anyway it seems as if if the actual fuel filter was clogged, it would be more of a car sputtering, loss of power at normal or higher speeds. My issue seems to be the low rpm bucking/jerking and even starting when cold and how it starts up and sounds like it's sort of skipping to crank. My car used to fire right up with no hesitations. NOt really a hesiation now , or rather I should say its a slight hesitation and almost sounds like its a slight flood to crank but it does crank. I was also reading something about the filter or screen in the fuel tank and that it can cause an issue. I have put on about 2 or 3 feul pumps since 02, I think it was 2, but I never remember seeing any screen thing in the tank itself. Thoughts on this guys????

 

[from6to8]

on edit: I just got TDC and the rotor button is aligned with the no. 1 plug just as I had it set before today. I just took out the dizzy to check and I stopped cause I wanted to ask about the PIP's plug and the plug off the harness. I notice that there are only 7 pin connectors and also only 7 spots in the pip's connector that has a sleeve. Is that how it's suppose to be? Keep in mind my car is a 95. Also, my no. 1 plug is at the 11 o clock position and that's where the rotor is pointing.

 

[Yellow302]

Tell you what, give Don a call over at Lasotaracing. He can set you up with a mail order tune for under 200 bucks and I guarantee it will be spot on. This guy KNOWS his 94/95 5.0's and you won't find anyone who can do it better. http://www.lasotaracing.com/MOCHIPS.html#anchor

Don's great made a chip for me back in 2007