289 Start But Will Not Run

[65driver289]

65 coupe 289, afr aluminum heads, 600 cfm edelbrock, tri-Y headers, accel distributor.
a few weeks ago I notice after the engine got hot if I shut the car off and tried to start it within a few hours it would not start. cap and rotor are less than 6 months old. I notice that one of the leads on the control unit in the distributor was broken on one side so I am guessing the cracked side would expand when it got hot then would not make a good conection till the distributor cooled down. I discovered this at work and sodered it back together and was able to get home although it ran rough. I ordered a new control unit, instaled it and now this is the situation....
1.pump the gas once and turn the key. it will start and run for 3 to 10 seconds then shut off.
2.Hold the gas down turn the key then it will start and run as long as I keep it over 2K RPM.
once you get close to 1K RPM is cuts off.
3. try to start it without pumping or anything and it may start, it may not and a few time it will blow gas back throught the carb.
I bought a second control unit but was planing on sending it back if I do not need it. 90$ refund would be nice.

searched posts already all the similar post the replies are fuel filters or bad gas. I checked the filter and it this was the issue I would not think it would run at 2K.

Any ideas whould be appreciated.

 

[horse sence]

did you by any chance switch any plug wires on the cap or at the plugs
or knock loose a ground connection? or possibly turn the distributor while working on it?

 

[rbohm]

sounds to me like your timing is off by about one tooth.

 

[65driver289]

I though it may be the timming too so I have moved the distributor 20 degrees in both directions with wores results. It starts fine where its at but shuts off after 5 to 10 seconds. and over 1000 rpm it runs really smoth thats is the frustrating thing.

 

[woodsnake]

How old is the timing gear set?

 

[horse sence]

do you have one of those porcelain resistors hooked to the dist.? it may be bad.
also if it back fired check your vacume lines it may have blown one off ,especialy the pvc hose. and check the pvc valve as well . make sure it rattles or it may be stuck open

 

[mike warlen]

Vacuum line disconnected, maybe?

 

[Hack]

So you say that if you run it until it gets hot and then try to restart it within a few hours it doesn't run well.

What if you keep running it? If you start it cold can you cruise around indefinitely with no symptoms and no problems? Any problems with it sitting at a light and then cruising away? Any problems under hard acceleration?

If everything works great when the car is started cold and no problems come up as the car gets warm - your only problems are after a warm restart, that sounds like a fuel line or the carb is getting hot and you are vapor locking. If the ignition components were causing a problem the problem would occur every time the car got warm, not only on a warm restart. It is also possible a clogged filter or crushed fuel line could cause a gas starvation problem, but that will occur on heavy acceleration, not just on a warm restart. Unless your original problem statement is incomplete or incorrect you need to route the fuel lines away from heat sources and possibly insulate them. Maybe a phenolic spacer under the carb will help keep the heat from the engine from boiling the fuel out of the carb bowls.

By the way on timing - buy a timing light! Come on, they are cheap and you need to know what your timing is. If you are swinging the dizzy back and forth randomly - who knows what your timing is. Incorrect timing will accentuate other problems. What you need to be able to do is step through logically checking components and eliminating them as the cause. You also need a timing light to set your carb properly.