I have a problem I desperately hope somebody can help me with. Long story short....About a year ago during a storm a 16 year old kid ran me off the road into a large amount of water. It hydrolocked the motor, which the insurance was all to happy to replace since it did no other damage to the car, and it was the first claim i had ever had in 11 years. I was excited about this since i had just caught my wife cheating on me with an ex and had started a nasty divorce. When the dust settled the Stang was all i had left (gotta love alabama laws, as she said, I did nothing wrong...this was just a guy she couldn't get past.) Enough rambling... I decided to go ahead with the new motor instead of totaling it, now i wish i had just taken the money and ran. About 3 months ago i started noticing a loud noise coming from the Trans and come to find out the Ford dealership that did the repairs decided to use the old pilot bearing and when it wouldn't fit correctly they decided to wield it in...The insurance company paid for the second repair, the trans shop (that i chose) said the clutch looked great and the trans was surprisingly in great shape for its age. The only other fix i've had was the pinion seal began to leak while i was on vacation and the car sat for a week. Now that you know the back story, last week i put new tires on the car and the next day I began to notice a whine coming from what i thought was the transmission, the whine got louder. Last night i talked with an ASE mechanic buddy of mine and he told me to check the fluid level because sometimes when they pull the drive shaft some fluid may leak out, checked it and it was at the correct level. Put everything back and torqued to spec. Today on the way home the whine begun to get louder and louder and as i pulled up to my apartment complex i noticed a rythmic banging noise i pressed the clutch in and the noise continued. The clutch pulls as strong as the day i bought the car, and the noise slows down with the rotation of the tires not the RPMs of the motor. I've checked brakes, rotors, the drive shaft and u joints, all seem to be in working order. Is it possible that the new tires caused a problem in the rearend and would i hear it inside the car and feel the same vibration in the sifter handle as the whine in the car. It makes no noise until it is moving and i can hear no typical noises that you would hear from a clutch. Sorry for the long post i just wanted you to have as much detail as possible... The problem i am running into is the shops around me work on either the trans or the rearend but not both, and the ones that do are the most complained on shops i've ever seen one shop i read up on had 46 complaints in the past year for terrible quality of work. Thank you very much in advance.
Cursed Gt
- Thread starter Jrod0985
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This is where the problem is. Somehow someway something got messed up and is causing this.
Jhussey1280
Member
If I had to guess, and it's purely a guess based on what I've read, something happened to the hubs/wheel bearings.
UPDATE....I did make one discovery today, i mounted 2 gopro cameras on the car, one facing the trans, and one facing the rearend, The noise is coming from the rearend but i can't figure out exactly where. It is however doing something strange. When in neutral and rolling forwards it makes this banging sounds and feeling like something is broke in the rearend, but when i put it in reverse and roll backwards...smooth as glass
Honestly, I would recommend getting rid of the car. If you got the car in enough water to hydrolock the engine, then you got enough water to seep into any seal and interfere with electrical connectors. As you can tell, the issues may not be obvious at first, but they will keep coming. You likely got water in the rear end or something, which has now destroyed the bearings. You can usually expect issues with the electrical system too, and good luck tracking those down!
Seriously, I recommend avoiding a water damage car like the plague. You need to make sure the insurance takes care of the issues now, and then unload the car so you don't have to deal with any future issues.
Seriously, I recommend avoiding a water damage car like the plague. You need to make sure the insurance takes care of the issues now, and then unload the car so you don't have to deal with any future issues.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
If you asked for my guess it's either a worn out pinion bearing or during the repair the pinion was not correctly pre-loaded (or both).
It happens only in one direction because of the way the pinion works. If the pinion pre-load is really off you will be able to feel it by pushing the pinion back and forth with your hand (motor not running).
Have you inspected the rear end oil? You would be surprised what a visual inspection will tell you.
In any case, a rear end rebuild done by a shop shouldn't set you back more the 650-800. Much cheaper than a new car. If you do the work yourself, it can be done for $150. Note, a rear end build is not a job for a novice. Do your home work before starting.
OBTW, when I troll for a new project, I look for someone just like you. IE someone pissed off at their car and ready to unload it quick and cheap.
It happens only in one direction because of the way the pinion works. If the pinion pre-load is really off you will be able to feel it by pushing the pinion back and forth with your hand (motor not running).
Have you inspected the rear end oil? You would be surprised what a visual inspection will tell you.
In any case, a rear end rebuild done by a shop shouldn't set you back more the 650-800. Much cheaper than a new car. If you do the work yourself, it can be done for $150. Note, a rear end build is not a job for a novice. Do your home work before starting.
OBTW, when I troll for a new project, I look for someone just like you. IE someone pissed off at their car and ready to unload it quick and cheap.
apats77
Member
I did a total rear end rebuild from American Muscle.
3.73 Gears (FRPP) 139.99
Install Kit (FRPP) 99.99
Limited Slip (FRPP) 179.99
3.73 Gears (FRPP) 139.99
Install Kit (FRPP) 99.99
Limited Slip (FRPP) 179.99
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
rear end is shot, I had one lock up last year. there is probably no fluid in it. Dosent matter now though, its gone if its that loud.
Well, some good new and some bad news, and some costly but is going to be fun news. Talking to a family friend that owns a trans shop (one of the ones that i said doesn't work on rear ends) He informs me that they hired a new Trans Tech and while talking about my buddies Twin Turbo Silverado the tech informs them that he has been building and rebuilding chevy and ford rear ends for about 15 years...Long story short they now offer rear end service haha. Bad news, The rear end is shot, the Preload was off and he said he'll let me know how bad it is once they quit picking teeth and metal out of the rear end. Now the Costly but going to be fun news is, the Trans and clutch got a clean bill of health, so this seemed like a good time to put in that new aluminum drive shaft I just happened to purchase and while they are rebuilding the rear end a set of 4:10's might just happen to be laying next to the parts bench....Costly but as the tech told me (odd statement but just the comic relief needed at the time) when life gives you lemons, don't get mad, consider them ammunition, wrap them in a towel and shoot them back at life with a potato gun...
Jhussey1280
Member
In all honesty that really isnt an expensive repair. Now mind you when I changed my rear gears I didn't destroy the rearend, but the labor was only $150 for the whole job and I paid about as much in parts for my gears. Might want to throw some Strange axles in there too. If you have the money.
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