Help with my slow build.

[striker911]

Had the 86 for almost 10 years now and its time to start thinking about starting from scratch. Second motor is on its last leg now.

I am getting older and more in tune to that age old recommendation of starting with the foundation first. My car is already to fast for the stock brakes and sus anyways.

M plan is to do one big upgrade per year taking about 5 years total. I would love it if I could do the sus work in the first year but with only 3-4 k I have my doubts. Some things will most def need to be second hand and thats fine if I only knew what to look for.

Since second hand parts come and go I dont expect anyone to post links for used parts. I am a tax time buyer and have time to put the first plan into action.

Parts I know I will need.
Full K Member
Shocks, struts, springs, sway bars, 5 lug conversion, bigger brakes/calipers, sub frame connectors, wheels, rear end, upper and lower rear end (?) arms.

What else am I forgetting and can I get some advice on a website with good prices so I can come up with a ball park figure on the high end? Also if somethings I listed are not needed I would like to discuss that as well. Thanks in advance.

 

[striker911]

found this set up. Also see a lot of them that are used for sale as well. Are they any good? http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-series-chrome-moly-k-member-kit-79.html

Also found this place.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/87-93-mustang-springs.html

If anyone knows of cheaper places let me know. :zzz:

Any reason to consider this?
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-heavy-duty-upper-lower-torque-box-kit.html

 

[88LX5.Oh]

Why do you think you need an aftermarket k member? Making the car a dedicated track car? If not, I'd leave the factory one in there.

I see you live in Mountain Home. Nice to see someone close by me here on SN. I live in Harrison

 

[striker911]

Ya it is nice. Especially since this place is to mildly populated.

I really dont have to get anything. Thats part of why I posted. Maybe like minded folks can help me decide what I want per what I have in mind as a whole. I really just want a bad ass car I can call my own. Mustangs are awesome but so many are exactly the same. To a point thats not a huge deal but I also want to explore all options and decide the path to take. Not going to be a race car but thats just how I drive it.

Want a solid car in all areas. I see in the adds for them that they boast about being stronger and with strut bars and things like that, I figure the car would benefit from the K. They dont cost a boat load and every thing else I am going to upgrade up front thats on it now will be taken off anyways. So all I would have to do it support the motor and pull the steering rack off it. They also boast about having space for long headers and bigger oil pans. Not sure if I need the K for long headers. Also the only motors I am considering are a 331 or 408W. Not sure I would need the K for the 408

But im open to conversation about the K. Really the more I save the faster I will get to my goal and be able to enjoy it.

 

[A5literMan]

I'm kinda in the same spot. I just put in a complete eibach springs,struts,shocks suspension in. But I want to do the k member-a arms. I like the eibach stuff. Car sits nice and handles well with a little stiffer ride

 

[striker911]

I'm kinda in the same spot. I just put in a complete eibach springs,struts,shocks suspension in. But I want to do the k member-a arms. I like the eibach stuff. Car sits nice and handles well with a little stiffer ride

I guess the K member is what I should focus on and maybe someone can chime in and let us both know.

Can I put long tube headers in with the stock K member?

With a stronger aftermarket K member is the handling improved enough to justify getting it? Or will things like a strut bar, and better sway bar just cancel out the benefits of the K member handling wise?

 

[MikeH686]

Yes but its a biotch and depending on how big you may have to dent one of the tubes

 

[A5literMan]

From everything I've heard you can put them in. But for better fit an aftermarket kmember is ideal. I'm waiting until I get my 427 done before I worry about it.

 

[88LX5.Oh]

I've got equal length long tubes and had no issues with my k member. Factory k member is about the strongest K member you could ever get. And you can run 7 quart oil pans with the factory K. I had a buddy with a notchback that had a Milodon 7 quart oil pan and the factory k member. And he had BBK long tubes too

Only thing I see good about an aftermarket K member is that with them and the tubular a arms, it moves the tires forward and the engine back. It actually does make the car handle better, though.

 

[RangerJoe]

Most aftermarket kmembers are not really stronger than the factory piece. They are lighter and open up more room for headers, as you already stated. UPR makes one of the lightest kmember packages, and alot of guys use them. If it is going to be a roadrace car or see alot of pothole driving, maximum motorsports sells a more robust version. My car is 98% street, but I went with a tubular kmember because my end goal is a fast street car. Loosing the weight was important for me, although my car is still heavy and has plenty more to lose.

Joe

 

[gearheadboy]

I considered a tubular K as well, just for ease of wrenching and maybe some weight loss. But I have a hard time feeling comfy with a street car and a tubular, only because I know how heavy the factory POS looks.