Turbo wastegate and bov problems

[SonicStangGT]

Ok, been a long summer for me, got my on3 turbo kit this summer, but been so busy havent had time time to install till now. Got a few problems that I hope someone can assit me with. I have a appt. woth Piedmont Custom Motorsports Thrusday morning for a dyno tune but Like i said theres a few issues.
My wastegate stays cracked at idle and never closes all the way. I have installed the fire ring the right way and have even bought a new wastegste(OBX). The one that came with the Kit and the new one act the same, cracked at idle. Ok, started off using vacuum sorce from the line that used to go to EGR, boost gauge never moved. Ran this to my wastegate, bov and boost gauge and nothing. SO then I taped the plate where the EGR used to be and installed a brass adt. to hook vacuum line too. Got lots of VAC on boost gauge but wastegate staying cracked and the bov are staying open.

So now I have welded a bug into the coldside pipe that hooks to the turbo and tapped that to reference vacuum line to waste gate and boost gauge, still stays cracked, never build any boost and gauge moves a little. BOV still open all the time, if you loosen vacuum line going to it, it will close. Cant seem to figure out what my problem is, how I could I have 2 wastegates that are different but act the same. Any help would be great because it will save me time at dyno if I have this worked out before, so they dont have to figure it out. THANKS

 

[trinity_gt]

Are these single or dual port wastegates? If so, are you sure you've got the line running to the correct port?

What does the WG do when there is no vacuum line connection at all? What does it do with the engine off?

The BOV will be open at idle (high manifold vacuum) but should close momentarily, for example, if you crack the throttle hard (as in stabbing the throttle for a second...)

 

[SonicStangGT]

Single port wastegate, has a bottom port and a top port. If you hook vacuum to top port wastegate opens all the way, if you unhook vacuum it does nothing. it always stays the same, always cracked at idle, when car is off or idleing. Both the wastegates act the same. Thanks for your help. Ive serched everywhere on how to hook wastegate up and Ive tried everything that i can think of.

 

[trinity_gt]

Single port wastegate, has a bottom port and a top port. If you hook vacuum to top port wastegate opens all the way, if you unhook vacuum it does nothing. it always stays the same, always cracked at idle, when car is off or idleing. Both the wastegates act the same. Thanks for your help. Ive serched everywhere on how to hook wastegate up and Ive tried everything that i can think of.

BTW, the BOV being open at idle is "normal" but not what you want on a MAF car. You need for a stiffer spring in that unit.

The wastegate is really weird. WGs operate on pressure, not vacuum. The spring in the WG should be holding it closed (not to mention the engine vacuum). It should take 5-10 (or whatever the WG is calibrated for) psi for the WG to start opening.

Do you have access to one of these:

(that is, a hand pump to generate pressure) that you can tie to the WG and test its operation separate from the engine/vacuum etc?

 

[SonicStangGT]

I will ask my dad if he has anything like that, bov is closing once you rev it up and then blows off. I can see Probly 1-4 psi on boost gauge when revved up. I agree on the wastegate. It should be closed till it sees pressure that's enough to open it. My luck is there both trash and I need another one.

 

[SonicStangGT]

Ok, my dad and I found the problem with my wastegates. There not sealing against the fire ring. You can see a little light coming through both of them. So I guess there both trash. I should have just stepped up when the first didnt work out and got a Presion, Tial, or a turbonetics. So now I got 2 wastegates that are paper weights. We did check them with pressure as you suggested and thats how we found out that they wera not closing all the way. Also in the wastegate that came with kit the valve seat is not even in the center of the flange, so it will never seal like that. Thanks again and I will update once I get the new wastegate on and tuned. Sucks I got to call and cancel my appt thrusday with the dyno, was really looking foward to seeing what it would make.

 

[trinity_gt]

As much of a bummer as it is to cancel the dyno it's good that you're making sure your 's right before attempting any hard pulls with it.

BTW, what was the brand of the WGs you have that are crap?

 

[SonicStangGT]

Well one is the one that came with the On3 Performance turbo kit, which I wouldnt recommend to anybody. The other is a OBX-R that I got off ebay. Ive decided to go with the Precision 46mm v band wastegate. The kit is not to bad, but I had to modify alot of stuff to make it work. Its not a bolt on kit, and most of the parts a cheap ebay parts. I had to buy a new oil filter relocation kit because the one in the kit was a cheesy jegs universal kit with hose clamps and I dont trust that with my oil. So I stepped up and got the maximun motorsports kit, which was really nice. I wish I would have just bought the Hellion kit, got turbonetics turbo and wastegate and a quality kit that would bolt on. Also I have to mod the hot pipe that runs from the pass side header to the merge pipe for the turbo because when you let the car down on the ground it touchs the control arm. It was a nightmare putting this kit on. It was one thing after another. I know some love the kit and didnt have many problems, but mine was horrible. Had to have the dump tube modded because it dumped right on the lower right side of the radiator support and radiator, it now exits towards the ground. Also have to install a adjustable bumpsteer kit to get more clearance for the tie rod ends. Some say my car is to low, but its really not that low. Thanks again for the info.