Ok thanks Kurt. Parts aren't selling as fast as they could but ill probably just tap into the savings since I won't find another deal like this one.
Build Thread Finally, My 351w Build Thread!
- Thread starter JonezySN95
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Yes, you can definitely pull a good deal these days. If the transmission is in good shape, that is definately a good deal. The critical thing is the gear condition. If the synchronizers are a little worn, that is fairly cheap to fix later on. There are two sliders that wear that are around $100 each that wear out, and there are a handful of blocker rings that are $15 each.
Also, don't forget you will need a driveshaft spacer in order to install the Tremec. That's not terribly expensive either. I know Steeda sells one.
Kurt
Also, don't forget you will need a driveshaft spacer in order to install the Tremec. That's not terribly expensive either. I know Steeda sells one.
Kurt
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Actually I have a driveshaft spacer I can send along with the rest of the goodies I have for ya for the swap. I've never run a spacer in any of my SN5.0's with Fox length trannies. One was putting down 425 hp to the pavement and the driveshaft never flinched!
You are supposed to run a spacer with a Fox transmission. The TKO is designed for a Fox car, so it is 5/8" shorter than the T5 that goes in an SN95. Whether or not you need one for the T5 will depend on which car it came out of. If it came out of a foxbody, then yes it should have a spacer. The other post is also correct, it will generally work without a spacer, the yolk on the driveshaft just won't be inserted into the tailhousing as far as it is supposed to be. Supposedly this can cause the yolk to wobble a little, but it generally isn't a problem. It depends on a lot of things like suspension height and travel.
Kurt
Kurt
95Vert383AOD
15 Year Member
Hey what upper radiator hose did you use? I'm using a metal flex one on my car but rather use rubber like you have.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
At 140 mph it wasn't "wobbling" at all! It did leak about a drop of tranny fluid a month.
I just used my stock one, but I need to flip my alternator to close the gap because my belt wants to walk off when it's revd up. So when I do I want to do a custom hose so it doesn't look funny sticking way up.
Update:
I just got the tko 600 and he sold it to me for $1,350. It came with an aluminum bell housing, all electrical connectors, and the longer d/s yoke. I did the test with all the gears like Kurt said and its flawless. It is a very clean tranny (looks almost brand new) and he said it only has a few thousand miles on it. Now I have to ship off the intakes to mike and start gathering the parts for the Vic jr and the rest of the tranny swap. It should be drive able if I can figure out the software for the tweecer and get a few things adjusted.
For the most part. It's hard with the wife not working and having 5 kids, but I do what I can when I can.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
I heard that! I can only do major things to my car when Uncle Sam hooks me up once a year.
Yeah unfortunately my decent amount I am getting this year is all going to bills... Story of my life.
questions for you cam experts...
1) Just curiouse, what is the biggest lift cam that will fit into a 71' 351w (valve clearance wise)?
2) I am not sure which pistons I have so I will post the only pics I have. What is the "Estimated" max lift I can get with my setup?
3) guesses on brand/type of pistons these are?
71' 410w
AFR 205 heads (dont know combustion chamber CC's or if its milled any)
Assuming same springs that come on the 205's but not sure
I know the only way to really know is to get it checked at a machine shop but I'm just looking for an estimation. I may consider the trick flow stage 3 but if my limit may be close to .600 lift then I dont want to chance it.
Thanks
1) Just curiouse, what is the biggest lift cam that will fit into a 71' 351w (valve clearance wise)?
2) I am not sure which pistons I have so I will post the only pics I have. What is the "Estimated" max lift I can get with my setup?
3) guesses on brand/type of pistons these are?
71' 410w
AFR 205 heads (dont know combustion chamber CC's or if its milled any)
Assuming same springs that come on the 205's but not sure
I know the only way to really know is to get it checked at a machine shop but I'm just looking for an estimation. I may consider the trick flow stage 3 but if my limit may be close to .600 lift then I dont want to chance it.
Thanks
Not much to update on. Sent off my intake to Mark (BTW when did you change your profile name?) to get polished. In the mean time I have made a gage mount for my AFR and oil pressure where the climate controls once were. I have also pulled the wiring harness to re-wrap it and get rid of every thing I wont be using any more ie egr, cruise control ect. As you may have guessed it turned out to be a PITA! But as far as everything from the windshield forward I think I'm done. I just have to figure out how I will route it now and wrap it up. I'm thinking putting as much of it as possible under my dash to include my outer fuse box and MSD box. Then route my engine harness out of a hole I make in the tranny tunnel and up the back of the motor. Run it under my Vic jr intake to hide most of it. I am also filling holes where the wing, side decals, antenna, heater and a/c were. Next I will be getting rid of my ABS box and hydro booster for my brakes. I'm def pretty busy while I wait for parts and $$$.
Question/opinions good or bad: In my quest to have bare minimum under the hood I had an idea to run an elbow to my fire wall and have my TB, MAF, and air cleaner in cab. I would have to figure something out for the throttle cable but I have ideas. Think this is a good idea?
And does anybody have an answer for my last post?
Question/opinions good or bad: In my quest to have bare minimum under the hood I had an idea to run an elbow to my fire wall and have my TB, MAF, and air cleaner in cab. I would have to figure something out for the throttle cable but I have ideas. Think this is a good idea?
And does anybody have an answer for my last post?
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
BANGERSTANGER76
Member
Jonesy sorry for getting back into this thread so late. I see you are making great progress and have already decided to switch over to a manual. But your AODE problem was more than likely the neutral saftey switch. My car was shifting in and out of overdrive and doing alot of the same things you explained. Changed that switch on the side of the trans and it runs and shifts excellent now. Good luck with the rest of the build.
Banger
Banger
Thanks banger, that actually does help a little because I would like to sell the aode so it's not another car part laying around. I do have one question though. Will over filling it make it have the same issues? I went of what the guy told me at advance auto parts and I swear it was way over filled. I couldn't get a good reading though, but when I drained it to take it out it filled up my drain pan. Guess that's what I get for going off what the part store tells me...
Similar threads
Progress Thread
68 Fastback Build Thread=> Rebuild to Restomod
