Drivetrain 5.0 in 67
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the engine is basically the same as a 289/302 that came in vintage cars with minor changes. for instance the timing cover and oil pans have a few differences. some timing covers from that time were cast without the fuel pump mount as EFI engines used electric pumps. some oil pans have relocated sumps that wont fit your early chassis. another issue with timing covers is that some either had the dipstick hole blocked off, or eliminated entirely. later blocks had provision for dipstick openings on the drivers side about halfway to the back of the block to work with the relocated oil pans.
there are other issues as well like some 5.0s from that time had a different balance factor, 50oz as opposed to the earlier 28oz. and of course there is the EFI system. some later engines had distributors where the advance system was completely locked out, you couldnt even change the initial timing as that was all controlled by the computer.
none of these and other minor issues are insurmountable though, for instance, you just need to change the oil pan to the earlier front sump style if yours is the rear sump pan. as for the timing cover, examine the one you have now as you might be able to use it. for instance the dipstick hole on a late model timing cover i am going to use on my 289 was plugged with a little freeze plug that popped out easily. you might also be able to drill a new hole as well.
engine mounts are going to be the same as the ones for the early chassis. wiring the EFI if you want to keep that isnt that difficult, and there are aftermarket harnesses just for that. or you can swap to a carb intake and earlier distributor if you want as they swap in place with no issues.
as long as you are using the whole engine and transmission, the balance factor is not an issue except when buying parts, so know which balance factor you have.
the rest is detail stuff that like any engine swap you have to deal with, throttle linkage, etc.
there are other issues as well like some 5.0s from that time had a different balance factor, 50oz as opposed to the earlier 28oz. and of course there is the EFI system. some later engines had distributors where the advance system was completely locked out, you couldnt even change the initial timing as that was all controlled by the computer.
none of these and other minor issues are insurmountable though, for instance, you just need to change the oil pan to the earlier front sump style if yours is the rear sump pan. as for the timing cover, examine the one you have now as you might be able to use it. for instance the dipstick hole on a late model timing cover i am going to use on my 289 was plugged with a little freeze plug that popped out easily. you might also be able to drill a new hole as well.
engine mounts are going to be the same as the ones for the early chassis. wiring the EFI if you want to keep that isnt that difficult, and there are aftermarket harnesses just for that. or you can swap to a carb intake and earlier distributor if you want as they swap in place with no issues.
as long as you are using the whole engine and transmission, the balance factor is not an issue except when buying parts, so know which balance factor you have.
the rest is detail stuff that like any engine swap you have to deal with, throttle linkage, etc.
Thank you for the info I am plaining on keeping the fuel injection system, I have the entire towncar so any sensors i need i could salvage out of it. I am also going to use the trans and computer. I am concerned about useing the computer as far as mounting it.
woodsnake
15 Year Member
331efiblue66
Member
Just a guess here-but I think in 88 the town car was a speed density computer-not mass air. Not the most desirable efi conversion...
the best way to mount to computer is in the cabin behind the glove box on early cars. you will have to build a bracket to mount the computer, and you should probably use something to minimize vibrations as well. mounting the computer in rubber is a good way to do this.
woodsnake
15 Year Member
An overdrive trans in an old car is one of the best upgrades a guy can do! BUT you need to get the kick down right,
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=KD2A+01
and the shifter linkage right, otherwise the O/D trans will go up in smoke, really quickly.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=53104+01
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=KD2A+01
and the shifter linkage right, otherwise the O/D trans will go up in smoke, really quickly.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=53104+01
66Coupe289POWER
Member
Keep in mind the town car 302 is only rated at 150hp and has the crappy lo-po intake and e6 heads. I have the same setup going into my 66 and will upgrade the intake, heads, and cam when its time to build the engine. The wiring is not that hard just find a ford EVTM for the town car and you will need to rewire some of the PCM pins b/c the town car PCM has cruise control integrated into it. I incorporated the fuel injection wiring into the main dash harness and mounted the PCM above the heater box. I used a MAF Mustang diagram as a guide. Here is a very good site for Mustang diagrams http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ I would not use the town car PCM. You dont want a Mustang that performs like a Town Car. The AOD should be ok just make absolutely sure you get the TV linkage set correctly or it wont live long.
Mr67Stang
Active Member
What is being refered to as a "kick down cable" is actually a "throttle valve" cable that controls the fluid flow in the transmission. They are finicky little boogers that when incorrectly adjusted will destroy a perfectly good transmission. I recomend removing the "TV" cable at the transmission and remove it from the throttle body without removing the adjustor clip.
Additionally, I live about 3 1/2 hours northeast of you in Raeford, NC. I have a bunch of 5.0 stuff such as stock intakes w/throttle bodies, E7 heads, even a mild hyd roller 302 w/ .040 oversized pistons. If you need something and it's worth you driving time, drop me an email.
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