whats a good K Member?

The truth is that good/strong K-members are not cheap, and cheap K-members are not strong. Some allow the use of stock control arms and springs but most don't. At any rate I'm all about cheap and good looks but blasting and painting or powder coating your stock part may be the best bang for your buck in the long run.
 
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Couldn't you even go beyond just cleaning and painting/coating the stock member?
Seems to me you could do something akin to deburring a block or smoothing an engine bay?
Use a grinder to remove any extra bits that mean nothing structurally, clean up sharp edges, radiusing curves, and even cleaning up factory welds, all before doing a paint/coating.

Just a thought..
 
theres no reason to be an ass im just asking if there was a good K Member i didnt know all that work was needed to put on it i though you could just swap one over didnt know you needed all that other ****.

People told you that in several replies what to do. There is no reason to swap out the stock K member if you plan on keeping the rest of the front end stock and/or don't have any clearance issues and/or are not planning on autocross or drag racing but it's money. No reason to get all pissy, especially when you don't know what is needed. MFE knows more than 99% of the people about suspensions. You have vendors asking HIM for advice.

Here's my 2 cents. Paint your stock K member body color unless you want to invest the money in a MM K member, A arms, and a good set of coil overs.
 
im only looking for a K Member i looked on their site they want $1,000 thats not cheap in my books, im a junkyard/swap meet guy i dont like paying the new price unless i have to.

UPR does offer the k-member itself for $369. (If you're interested, I can PM you a discount code for that) UPR's tubular Chrome Moly k-member is Made in America and it carries a Lifetime Guarantee. It is the best in the business for street/strip applications.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-series-chrome-moly-k-member-79.html
 
UPR does offer the k-member itself for $369. (If you're interested, I can PM you a discount code for that) UPR's tubular Chrome Moly k-member is Made in America and it carries a Lifetime Guarantee. It is the best in the business for street/strip applications.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-series-chrome-moly-k-member-79.html


Sharad,

Does UPR recommend a customer stick with the stock control arms and struts/springs with your K members? Does that K member change any of the stock geometry or wheel placement. Does it require CC plates or any other mods? What is the benefit of swapping out the K member and keeping the rest of the front end components stock. What is the durability of your $369 K member and has it been tested vs. the stock K member for strength and longevity. Thanks in advance for your answers.
 
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UPR does offer the k-member itself for $369. (If you're interested, I can PM you a discount code for that) UPR's tubular Chrome Moly k-member is Made in America and it carries a Lifetime Guarantee. It is the best in the business for street/strip applications.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-pro-series-chrome-moly-k-member-79.html

Does the Lifetime Guarantee cover manufacturer defects? I have a UPR k-member and the motor position isn't correct. I confirmed this by calling UPR and getting dimensions from them on a 87-93 5.0 k-member they had in the warehouse, the motor mount pad dimensions i was given dont match whats on my car. I asked them what they could do about it, they said they would call me back with a solution. I never heard back, I called back a few times, sent emails with pictures, and kept getting the run around so i gave up. This was about a year ago. I'd still like to see you guys make this right.
 
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Does the Lifetime Guarantee cover manufacturer defects? I have a UPR k-member and the motor position isn't correct. I confirmed this by calling UPR and getting dimensions from them on a 87-93 5.0 k-member they had in the warehouse, the motor mount pad dimensions i was given dont match whats on my car. I asked them what they could do about it, they said they would call me back with a solution. I never heard back, I called back a few times, sent emails with pictures, and kept getting the run around so i gave up. This was about a year ago. I'd still like to see you guys make this right.

Sounds just about the same as how i was treated by AJE, they know there was a problem, i knew there was a problem, yet no replacement could be acquired. I'd assume it doesn't take too much time and money to make a customer happy with a replacement, but that's not the route AJE took with me (i did purchase it new from jegs, but because of cost of the whole build i didn't install it right away), you can bet i cost them wayyyyyyyy more than it would have taken to replace mine with bad reviews and comments.

This is why i tell people to economize with the best, ya it's more money, but it's less headaches. MM and griggs have great reputations, and they prefer to keep it that way.
 
Sounds just about the same as how i was treated by AJE, they know there was a problem, i knew there was a problem, yet no replacement could be acquired. I'd assume it doesn't take too much time and money to make a customer happy with a replacement, but that's not the route AJE took with me (i did purchase it new from jegs, but because of cost of the whole build i didn't install it right away), you can bet i cost them wayyyyyyyy more than it would have taken to replace mine with bad reviews and comments.

This is why i tell people to economize with the best, ya it's more money, but it's less headaches. MM and griggs have great reputations, and they prefer to keep it that way.

I agree 100%, till this issue is resolved I'll just keep bringing it up in every k-member thread, if they dont fix the problem, its my loss, and their loss. I lose because the geometry isnt right, and they lose because i keep telling everyone about it, when someone comes up to me at a car show, or the track and says what brand K-member is that, and how do you like it, I tell them the whole story, and they learn something.
 
Sharad,

Does UPR recommend a customer stick with the stock control arms and struts/springs with your K members? Does that K member change any of the stock geometry or wheel placement. Does it require CC plates or any other mods? What is the benefit of swapping out the K member and keeping the rest of the front end components stock. What is the durability of your $369 K member and has it been tested vs. the stock K member for strength and longevity. Thanks in advance for your answers.


Sharad, would you please respond?
 
Hey guys- sorry for the delay. I'm not able to post on Stangnet every day. Of course, our sales/tech associates are available 14 hours a day, 7 days a week at 561.588.6630 so if you need an immediate answer, please contact us there.



Sharad,

Does UPR recommend a customer stick with the stock control arms and struts/springs with your K members? Does that K member change any of the stock geometry or wheel placement. Does it require CC plates or any other mods? What is the benefit of swapping out the K member and keeping the rest of the front end components stock. What is the durability of your $369 K member and has it been tested vs. the stock K member for strength and longevity. Thanks in advance for your answers.

I wouldn't say we "recommend" for a customer to stick with the stock control arms, but it is an option. The factory a-arms can be used with stock style springs if you choose our k-member kit which includes upper spring perches. In fact, the factory a-arms, springs, struts, steering rack, and cc-plates can be used with UPR's tubular k-member. That said, our complete k-member kit with tubular a-arms, and coilovers, used with quality struts and UPR cc-plates is a great and versatile setup. It's been used on everything from 7-second drag cars to high mileage street cars. In terms of durability, we've sold thousands of these k-members and haven't had a single failure.

And from a personal perspective, although people like to take shots at UPR's reputation for whatever reason, I can tell you this- I have UPR tubular k-members in all three of my Mustangs. My babies ride in my cars. I can assure you that NO job is worth risking my kids' lives just to please my boss. I use UPR Products on my own vehicles because they work well, reliably.


Does the Lifetime Guarantee cover manufacturer defects? I have a UPR k-member and the motor position isn't correct. I confirmed this by calling UPR and getting dimensions from them on a 87-93 5.0 k-member they had in the warehouse, the motor mount pad dimensions i was given dont match whats on my car. I asked them what they could do about it, they said they would call me back with a solution. I never heard back, I called back a few times, sent emails with pictures, and kept getting the run around so i gave up. This was about a year ago. I'd still like to see you guys make this right.

My boss's name is Jeremy Martorella. He can be reached at 561.588.6630. I would urge you to contact him right away.
 
Hey guys- sorry for the delay. I'm not able to post on Stangnet every day. Of course, our sales/tech associates are available 14 hours a day, 7 days a week at 561.588.6630 so if you need an immediate answer, please contact us there.





I wouldn't say we "recommend" for a customer to stick with the stock control arms, but it is an option. The factory a-arms can be used with stock style springs if you choose our k-member kit which includes upper spring perches. In fact, the factory a-arms, springs, struts, steering rack, and cc-plates can be used with UPR's tubular k-member. That said, our complete k-member kit with tubular a-arms, and coilovers, used with quality struts and UPR cc-plates is a great and versatile setup. It's been used on everything from 7-second drag cars to high mileage street cars. In terms of durability, we've sold thousands of these k-members and haven't had a single failure.

And from a personal perspective, although people like to take shots at UPR's reputation for whatever reason, I can tell you this- I have UPR tubular k-members in all three of my Mustangs. My babies ride in my cars. I can assure you that NO job is worth risking my kids' lives just to please my boss. I use UPR Products on my own vehicles because they work well, reliably.




My boss's name is Jeremy Martorella. He can be reached at 561.588.6630. I would urge you to contact him right away.


Thanks Sharad for the response. Could you please tell me if the UPR K member still keeps the same stock wheel location and geometry, and what the cost is for the complete kit vs. just the K member?
 
Thanks Sharad for the response. Could you please tell me if the UPR K member still keeps the same stock wheel location and geometry, and what the cost is for the complete kit vs. just the K member?

No problem.

The K-member has all factory mounting points. (no altered geometry)

The k-member itself, WITH spring cups for use with the factory a-arms is $399. The complete kit is $699. But we offer Stangnet members a discount. You can PM me for the code if you'd like.

A little bit of breaking news on the k-member topic- my boss just emailed me a new blog to post. UPR has begun producing mild steel k-members, and the target price for the mild steel UPR k-member kit complete with a-arms and coilovers is $599, so that's a decent drop below the price of our chrome-moly k-member kit.