what gear w these cam specs?

[gearheadboy]

My question is: Is it a roller cam now? Are you using a the proper firing order? When you say a carb cam what do you mean? The the distributor could be wired for the wrong firing order HO and non are different. There are a lot of questions here. How bout some pics?

 

[jka]

Is your cam a holley street avenger roller cam? It that's your cam...it's design for use with a carb..but it can be tune to run with EFI it has a 351w firing order. So it will work your car will run rich without a tune.

 

[90lxwhite]

Question for you: You said he put a carb. cam in the car, with a different firing order. Is this cam a flat tappet cam? Not saying flat tappet cams don't make power, but not having a roller could cost you some power. Also, it has always been my understanding and experience that the more radical a cam gets, the better lower (numerically higher) gears are for drive ability. I would really have a difficult time thinking that a 2.73 would be more driveable then a 3.73. Sure, it will let you stay in one gear longer, but you will accelerate slower.

Joe

nah its comp hydro roller 35-440-8.

 

[90lxwhite]

And it has been tuned, $500 day at the dyno fresh from the shop, they got the firing order straightened out etc and used sct chip. It doesn't run horribly rough, just a lot of shifting and drone. Bucks sum below 100o rpm. If the car had more horsepower I think there'd be a more tolerable speed to gear ratio. Now it's kinda like driving a tractor

 

[f8tlfiveo]

I am not sure what this thread is even about... Kinda confusing..is your timing set properly?

 

[TOOLOW91]

• Lift: .512"/.512"
• Duration: 281°/281°
• Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
• RPM Range: 2000-5500

I cant see where this cam is going to have street manners .... The cam is too radical for what your looking for just because max lift is small means nothing its even in the description of the cam- "Magnum camshafts are very aggressive and specifically designed for the street enthusiast looking for more power with that Pro Street sound. Intended for performance oriented vehicles that will see little street use. The idle characteristics of your engine will change due to the increased duration and overlap of the Comp Cams Magnum Cam Series. The hydraulic roller cams do dramatically decrease friction, as well as lifter wear. As far as power, the roller profile allows the design of more lift, and a greater area under the curve giving much better top end power without sacrificing bottom end. You will notice a racey idle with the 280-grind while the 292 and 305-grinds will produce a rough or ''rumbly'' idle. Stock components are incompatible. Changes are needed in rear end gear ratios, headers and the torque converter. Magnum Cams will affect your power accessories to a certain extent. The 280 and 292-grinds are the biggest cams that should be used with power assisted brakes, air conditioning, etc. You should remember that the bigger the engine is, the less the cam will affect the vacuum which affects your power accessories. The smaller your engine is, the more the Magnum Camshaft will affect your power accessories. Most late model vehicles have a vacuum canister. If your vehicle does not have a vacuum canister, it may be necessary to add one."

 

[2000xp8]

I am not sure what this thread is even about... Kinda confusing..is your timing set properly?

Ya seriously, quite a bit of nonsense written, sounds like a misdiagnosed problem, then a bunch of poor advice on how to fix it.

 

[86bluecobra]

The other thing to consider is there were two t-5 transmission gear ratio's. If you have a t-5 with a 3.35 first gear then 1st is going to be gone very quickly. It shouldn't feel like your towing a piano though. I believe the other t-5 has a 2.97 or 2.95 1st gear. That 2,95 transmission would give you a bit more speed in 1st gear it also gives a smoother 1st to 2nd gear.

As for your bucking issue does it feel like its in the drivetrain? The reason I ask is if you have aftermarket upper and lower rear control arms they can bind and cause a little bit of bucking. Usually at cruising speed in 5th gear at lower rpm is where they could be an issue. Just curious if that is adding to your issues.

 

[90lxwhite]

• Lift: .512"/.512"
• Duration: 281°/281°
• Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
• RPM Range: 2000-5500

I cant see where this cam is going to have street manners .... The cam is too radical for what your looking for just because max lift is small means nothing its even in the description of the cam- "Magnum camshafts are very aggressive and specifically designed for the street enthusiast looking for more power with that Pro Street sound. Intended for performance oriented vehicles that will see little street use. The idle characteristics of your engine will change due to the increased duration and overlap of the Comp Cams Magnum Cam Series. The hydraulic roller cams do dramatically decrease friction, as well as lifter wear. As far as power, the roller profile allows the design of more lift, and a greater area under the curve giving much better top end power without sacrificing bottom end. You will notice a racey idle with the 280-grind while the 292 and 305-grinds will produce a rough or ''rumbly'' idle. Stock components are incompatible. Changes are needed in rear end gear ratios, headers and the torque converter. Magnum Cams will affect your power accessories to a certain extent. The 280 and 292-grinds are the biggest cams that should be used with power assisted brakes, air conditioning, etc. You should remember that the bigger the engine is, the less the cam will affect the vacuum which affects your power accessories. The smaller your engine is, the more the Magnum Camshaft will affect your power accessories. Most late model vehicles have a vacuum canister. If your vehicle does not have a vacuum canister, it may be necessary to add one."

HYDRAULIC ROLLER − Great in street
machines. Best power above 3500 rpm
but still good torque. Mild rough idle.
Largest for stock heads and intake.
2000+ stall recommended. That's from the comp cam catalog, and no I didn't pick the cam the damn old ass builder did. And as to where this thread is leading, or what it pertains to I guess I was just stating that I wasn't happy w/ the 3.73 gears, car runs ok but doesn't have enough hp to justify the 3.73 gears I guess, 4th gear on surface streets and 2500-2700 rpm drone on the highway. I mean yeah, it'll hit redline real fast but still a slow car. So, what I was wondering and asking is, would 3.27 or 3.55 be a better gear to go with and would it work ok with said cam. As far as the bucking, it wants to stall unless its above a certain rpm as where as before the rebuild you could just ease off the clutch and pseudo coast in 1st gear, that was when totally stock besides flowmasters and when it had the 2.73 rear. After the build it would do the said bucking and chugging when under 1100 rpm or so but seemed to buck less since the addition of the 3.73 gear. I assume it bucks less w/ the 3.73 since its not below 1100 or so as long.


Oh yeah PS stock rear suspension components for whoever was asking.

 

[90lxwhite]

PS: 3.73 best bang for the buck mod my ass. If you don't have the horsepower to go with it you're just wasting gas.

 

[TOOLOW91]

HYDRAULIC ROLLER − Great in street
machines. Best power above 3500 rpm
but still good torque. Mild rough idle.
Largest for stock heads and intake.
2000+ stall recommended. That's from the comp cam catalog, and no I didn't pick the cam the damn old ass builder did. And as to where this thread is leading, or what it pertains to I guess I was just stating that I wasn't happy w/ the 3.73 gears, car runs ok but doesn't have enough hp to justify the 3.73 gears I guess, 4th gear on surface streets and 2500-2700 rpm drone on the highway. I mean yeah, it'll hit redline real fast but still a slow car. So, what I was wondering and asking is, would 3.27 or 3.55 be a better gear to go with and would it work ok with said cam. As far as the bucking, it wants to stall unless its above a certain rpm as where as before the rebuild you could just ease off the clutch and pseudo coast in 1st gear, that was when totally stock besides flowmasters and when it had the 2.73 rear. After the build it would do the said bucking and chugging when under 1100 rpm or so but seemed to buck less since the addition of the 3.73 gear. I assume it bucks less w/ the 3.73 since its not below 1100 or so as long.


Oh yeah PS stock rear suspension components for whoever was asking.

373 is keeping your cam happy.... and like many others i guess i misunderstood you original post.

 

[90lxwhite]

got ya

 

[86bluecobra]

PS: 3.73 best bang for the buck mod my ass. If you don't have the horsepower to go with it you're just wasting gas.

I would think a bit different then you. The 3.73 gears act as a higher torque multiplier. This gives you quicker launches then say a stock 2.73 gear will give you. I'm not sure the extra fuel cost will off set the extra joy in seat of the pants performance. Just how I felt going from 2.73's to 3.73's.

 

[90lxwhite]

I would think a bit different then you. The 3.73 gears act as a higher torque multiplier. This gives you quicker launches then say a stock 2.73 gear will give you. I'm not sure the extra fuel cost will off set the extra joy in seat of the pants performance. Just how I felt going from 2.73's to 3.73's.

I wasn't that serious bout the gas thing b/c who cares its a hotrod but w/ out much hp infront of the gear youre still not movin that fast it just feels like it

 

[86bluecobra]

I wasn't that serious bout the gas thing b/c who cares its a hotrod but w/ out much hp infront of the gear youre still not movin that fast it just feels like it

That might be true. That's why I referred to seat of pants performance. I would rather feel like I am going fast with 3.73's then know I am going nowhere with 2.73's.

My car hated the 2.73's after I modified it. I had plenty of hp but the 2.73 gear kept the rpm's so low that my car would kinds buck and surge. 5th gear was almost useless. Even at 50mph (80kmph) the car didn't like 5th. The 3.73's brought the rpm's up to where the cam and intake were happy. It is much more drivable with the 3.73's. Sounds to me like your new combo reacted the same as my combo did with 2.73's.

 

[Maryland Stang]

At 209 HP I'm guessing that something is just not right in the initial engine setup. The 281 HR is not that much cam. Even Comp says that it is compatible with the stock intake and heads. The 3.73 gears are fine with this cam. If you change to less gear, like 3.31 or 3.55, you'll only make the problems worse.

Part of the problem is you've had a bunch of people working on it and you don't really know what any of them did. I have questions that I know you can't answer like what is the cam timing and what is the fuel pressure. What did the shop do with the SCT chip? Is it a switch chip?

There are so many things that could be wrong that it's difficult to know where to start. I'm really thinking that I would start with the basics and confirm that the engine tune is correct. Check the TPS, base idle, timing, fuel pressure and see if it has any codes stored.

 

[90lxwhite]

Yeah hear ya.. Switch chip??? After the lower intake gets back from tmoss and I get it back on the car I think I'm going to take it to the tune shop so maybe that'll give some clarity.

 

[88gt373]

i have 373's in my rear and my car loves it.. when i had my 3.35 T5 first gear went by fast.. after going to a tko3550 w/ a 3.27 first and .68 5th, freeway rpm was better and first gear was better... so.. 373's is prolly not a huge part of your issue..

• Lift: .512"/.512"
• Duration: 281°/281°
• Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
• RPM Range: 2000-5500

this cam is not a dd cam and flows way more than stocks heads should have.. if you have this cam under better heads i dont think you would have a problem..
BUT as far as gears for a DD.. i wish i went with 355's... spends more time in each gear and lower freeway rpm..

id get better heads, or smaller cam.. thats IF there is not an issue with your clutch or any other crap.

 

[Maryland Stang]

Lift: .512"/.512"

• Duration: 281°/281°
• Lobe Separation Angle: 110°
• RPM Range: 2000-5500

this cam is not a dd cam and flows way more than stocks heads should have.. if you have this cam under better heads i dont think you would have a problem..

BUT as far as gears for a DD.. i wish i went with 355's... spends more time in each gear and lower freeway rpm..

id get better heads, or smaller cam.. thats IF there is not an issue with your clutch or any other crap.

I'll tell you why this cam is no big deal. The B cam with 1.7 rockers has almost the same lift (.510), way more duration at .050" lift and more duration up top. And people constantly say the B cam is mild. How can this Comp cam be radical and the B cam is not? Even without the 1.7 rockers the B cam still has more duration at .050" and at the top.

 

[Rick 91GT]

That cam is not radical but wouldn't be my first choice with that set-up, seems like there are some other possible issues. I would have went with a wider LSA for a broader power range, and with no gear in the car it will be a little last down low IMO.

What is the complete combo? I see mentions of a carb but it was tuned SCT chip so I assume its EFI?