So how does this get removed, I have taken off the Bezel and undone all the screws around the Sub, yet feels like its still bolted on.. If there another bolt or something holding it on?
Door Subwoofer.... Removal
- Thread starter Vegas
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well that sucks.... thanks.. i was afraid of that,
can i assume its not needed to re install? or it will rattle without the bolt..
Funny everyone on the web never mentions the bolt, I figured there was one, but wanted to make sure...
can i assume its not needed to re install? or it will rattle without the bolt..
Funny everyone on the web never mentions the bolt, I figured there was one, but wanted to make sure...
You can certainly put it back in place without it, but it's quite a bit of weight so I imagine Ford designed it that way to keep that puppy from coming free. And, yes, I imagine it will create resonant noises if it isn't bolted down. Regardless, the door panel is one of the easiest I've ever removed.
I replaced mine with my own adapters so I could install 6.5" Polk Momo component drivers and put tweeters and crossovers (on the back side) in the 4X6 space where the full range speaker was located above the woofers. The sound difference was like night and day.
I replaced mine with my own adapters so I could install 6.5" Polk Momo component drivers and put tweeters and crossovers (on the back side) in the 4X6 space where the full range speaker was located above the woofers. The sound difference was like night and day.
Total system replacement - Clarion DVD/NAV head unit, Infinity amps, Polk speakers all around and RF Punch 12" sub in a custom fiberglass enclosure I made to fit in the driver's side trunk corner near the tail light. Hung the amps from the package shelf inside the trunk to conserve space.
well I have like 8 Amps, but none are small enough to fit in the kick panels. So I assume I got to run 100 miles of wire...
I was going to use a custom speaker in the trunk myself but was considering keeping stock amps in kick panels. Just swap out the Subs, but the ohms are so low it wont work out. My Sub I have is 1 ohm, 2000 watts, and I have a 1800 wall Kenwood mono for the base, but the Door subs seemed ok, just a little sloppy..
I was going to use a custom speaker in the trunk myself but was considering keeping stock amps in kick panels. Just swap out the Subs, but the ohms are so low it wont work out. My Sub I have is 1 ohm, 2000 watts, and I have a 1800 wall Kenwood mono for the base, but the Door subs seemed ok, just a little sloppy..
Ah. Well, sloppy lows are a problem. I like a clean hard bass hit - as I listen to many different styles of music.
Not a good picture but here's how I hung mine (this is still during the install so the siring wasn't yet cleaned up and I had crappy RCA cables...)
(the mounting posts are straight - it's the camera perspective)
(the subwoofer enclosure wasn't yet properly finished - my steed isn't green but Vapor Metallic)
Not a good picture but here's how I hung mine (this is still during the install so the siring wasn't yet cleaned up and I had crappy RCA cables...)
(the mounting posts are straight - it's the camera perspective)
(the subwoofer enclosure wasn't yet properly finished - my steed isn't green but Vapor Metallic)
That could be true depending on the design of the driver. Mine is sealed; tuned to 28 Hz. I've designed and used similar enclosures for many years. Excellent response, amazing SPL and compact. Not a good solution for boom and drone though and there are a lot of folks out there that want boom and drone.
