Post pics of how your foxbody currently sits

I love the stance of yours. How much did you lower it?


thanks if i remember it was 1 1/2 lowered .......and to address the hoodpins, i never liked them on foxbodies and until my hood popped off the latch for the third time on highway bumps i decided to do hoodpins. All three times i was lucky enough to see my hood was up only being held by safety... scary sheot!, i would rather take my chances on forgetting to put pins in then ever go without hoodpins again. Whenever i lift my hood i throw the pins on my drivers floormat i always see them there and besides hoodpins have grown on me i like how they look now!!! everybody with aftermarket fiberglass hoods with no hoodpins are crazy without them!!
 
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RIP Had pretty bad rust under the roof skin, no idea it was a common problem on the 4 eyes

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Sharad, will you be going to bradenton next month for NMRA True street? I dont' think i'll be done testing for that but should make Georgia.
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Just finished unstrapping from the Dyno
 
I'm replacing most of the front of the engine. New water pump, new 3G alternator, radiator, e-fan, going with under drive pulleys, and alternator bracket. The cooling system somehow worked, to my astonishment as it never even got over 190 in the Texas heat last year. The fan had a blade broken off, the radiator SOMEHOW didn't leak, and the water pump shaft had walked towards the front somehow about 1/4 inch and thus the WP pulley walked forward and was eating at least 1 rib off the belt. All this was crap that happened before I bought it, and I have no idea what happened to cause this. I also discovered there are NO bars on the front of the heads that were allegedly GT40 heads. I'm kinda glad though, cause now I don't have to settle for them and I can buy TFS heads without feeling like I should stick with the GT40 heads. Also, when I removed the old radiator, I found what's in the last pic between the radiator and the condenser.

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Sharad, will you be going to bradenton next month for NMRA True street? I dont' think i'll be done testing for that but should make Georgia.
Just finished unstrapping from the Dyno

Dangit, ya butthole! :D I was really looking forward to checking your car out next week!!! I read all about it on All Out's FB page. You and I have V E R Y similar combos. Unfortunately, I didn't make as much power as you did on 21psi, despite the fact that I'm running 28psi. We had 16% converter slip on the dyno so the power's just not getting to the tires. I'm planning to make some test hits at Bradenton, but I won't run True Street until the car is 100%.

I should be able to run NM*C*A True Street in Bradenton in three weeks or NMRA True Street in April. It would be cool if we can both race in GA!

What color are you painting yours?
 
i would love to make the florida race, but now way we can have it tested and ready for then. I'll be in georgia for sure. The car is going in black epoxy primer this weekend hopefully and will probably stay that way for a little bit. I'm hoping by the time mir rolls around it will be house of colors lime time green, the same as the cage. There is actually a half as attempt of a rendering on the all out fb page. I'm definitely looking forward to meeting and racing this season.
 
Installed MM caster/camber plates and now in the process of installing energy suspension isolators. My first time removing the cool springs. I don't have gear puller to remove the tie rod End from the spindle. ****!
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Gear puller? Listen- slide the bolts back in to the strut to suspend it , turn the wheel right so the spindle where the tie rod fully exposed. Hit the spindle dead on where the tie rod is in it with a 2lb sledge. It will pop right out .
 
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