?? on the Anderson cams

[Toxic302]

Alright a few of you know im trying to put together a H/C/I swap for my new toy and have been very helpful. Now for the next question..

I "believe" im gonna try the TW 170 cc Aluminum Heads. They are on E bay assembled for like $550, and there is a really good machine shop here by my house. Now for the cam, i have heard nothing but good about the Anderson cams. SO my question is, Whats the difference in the "N" series and the "B" series.?? Im assuming its naturally aspirated and boosted?? I wanna drive this car on the weekends and cruise, but it will see the bottle some as well. And from what i read, using the "B" series cam, you need different pistons... Thoughts please and thanks again!

 

[RangerJoe]

You are correct. N is for naturally aspirated and B is for boost/nitrous. Not all the B series cams require aftermarket pistons. Check out the link below for info on each cam. The AFM are good cams, but are also pricey. You are limited by how radical you go when sticking with stock pistons. I use to run the TFS 1 cam, but swapped over to the N41. No seat of the pants difference. You can pick up a used TFS 1 for a $100 if you shop around. It is even designed to work with the heads you have chose. I'm not trying to turn you away from the AFM, just offer another option.

http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.c...T-/-LX-/-Cobra/Engine/Anderson-Camshafts.html

Joe

 

[HuskerNation]

My vote, get a custom grind cam from Comp Cams based on your complete setup, rather than going with an alphabet cam.

Anderson cams are nice, but there is nothing better than a custom cam for your exact build.

 

[Toxic302]

Yeah but wouldnt a custom grind be more costly? and if i continue to upgrade, wouldnt a custom be pointless. With the shelf cam( either the N41 or the TFS 1) wouldnt i have room to grow a bit?

 

[mikestang63]

Are you planning on keeping the stock pistons? I assume you are going to check PTV. That is going to limit your choices for cams unless you want to notch them for clearance with the TW heads.

It all depends on how much you want to spend. There is nothing wrong with the stock cam- it can easily get you into the 12's or 11's with the right heads, intake, TB, etc and still maintain normal driveability and no surging idle issues. The TFS cam is a decent cam and will give you a good gain in hp and they are cheap.

I agree a custom cam like one from TFI is the best route but not if you plan on changing combos in the near future.

 

[Toxic302]

I wouldnt so much say change combos, but i may do some adding on.

 

[a91what]

That's a really good price on tw heads. Is that for a pair or each?

 

[f8tlfiveo]

That can't be for a pair, if it is I'm buying a set and I don't even need them.

 

[Toxic302]

AHHHHH! You guys were right. I miss read it. That is for a single head. And correct me if Im wrong, but stay away from the ProComps??? And why is that? They are like 650 for the PAIR, and that seems cheap if they work. im on a budget, so its looking more and more likr GT40X's are gonna be my route, with a decent intake and either a Anderson cam, TFS, or an ED Curtis if it will be worth the money to get a custom ground cam with that application.

 

[HuskerNation]

Whats your goal for HP? On a strict budget, you have to have a reasonable goal.

You can find a set of GT40 Heads/Intake for not that much. I bought mine used. I was lucky and found my Heads and Intake Manifold off of a 1998 Mountaineer and got them both for $175 pulled. You also have to remember your accessories can add up too. Like ARP head bolts, with both ARP's applicators. There is another $100, plus fluids. All together, remachined, I should spend around $150 for Valve Springs, $50 ARP Head Bolts, $25 ARP Ultra Torque Assemble Lube, $13 ARP Thread Sealer, $80 in gaskets plus whatever the Machine Shop is going to charge to clean these up and reseat valves if they need it, probably around another $300. I will be around $800 for my complete build, and hopefully a little over 300 RWHP, 315 RWTQ.

 

[Toxic302]

Did you get the aluminum GT40's, or the cast iron ones... and i cant seem to find GT40's anywhere.

 

[f8tlfiveo]

AHHHHH! You guys were right. I miss read it. That is for a single head. And correct me if Im wrong, but stay away from the ProComps??? And why is that? They are like 650 for the PAIR, and that seems cheap if they work. im on a budget, so its looking more and more likr GT40X's are gonna be my route, with a decent intake and either a Anderson cam, TFS, or an ED Curtis if it will be worth the money to get a custom ground cam with that application.

People will talk trash on the procomps, I own a set..for all the trash people talk I was very impressed with the quality of the castings.. I did not buy mine assembled from procomp. Just the castings. Years ago their quality might not have been as good, but I would definitely buy another set. No doubt. Why spend an extra 500$ if you don't have too.

 

[Toxic302]

Thats true. Im just familiar with them. Wish i could find someone selling a nice heads and intake together, but ive had no luck. lol

 

[HuskerNation]

Thats true. Im just familiar with them. Wish i could find someone selling a nice heads and intake together, but ive had no luck. lol

Craigslist is your best bet. Look for Explores and Mountaineers. I was patient and found mine after looking for a few months. I am driving an hour and a half for them, but its well worth $175. Talked to my machine shop, they are going to do the work for $100, which makes me even happier lol.

 

[mikestang63]

There are no less than 3 5.0 explorers at my local U pull it with the correct intakes, heads, and TB. Took me about 2 hours to pull the top end off when I did my swap. Cost me $40 for the intake and $60 for the heads + another $200 for springs, keepers, and seals and clean up at the machine shop. Added the MAF from a 95GT for $40, a 70MM TB and EGR spacer from CL for $75, a Kirban FPR from the Corral for $40 and BBK CAI from CL for $50. Add another $100 for gaskets, RTV, coolant, oil and filter and it was about $600 to swap the whole top end.

Figure I added maybe 40-50 hp also added FMS shorty headers found on CL for $75 and installing a BBK H pipe I got from CL for $80 that is brand new, a set of March U/D pulleys and the Taurus fan with FAL VSC. Hopefully I should be around 280-290 hp after all is done for about a grand in parts. That's the great thing about Fox Body Mustangs. The parts are cheap and plentiful, and since they have been around for 20 years now the go fast recipes are time tested.

Next , it's time to swap out the stock 3.08's for a set of 3.73's and add a silver fox valve body and get rid of the stupid TV cable to wake up the AOD. Should be all set for a while.................. until I find a deal on a used S trim............ and I promised myself 6 months ago when I bought this STOCK I was not going to mod this Stang like I did the other 6. It started with a simple K&N FIPK and went downhill fast from there. Luckily, my wife is very understanding.

And buying her a new 2013 V6 Mustang.

 

[Toxic302]

yeah same here man, the wife is totally cool with it. I had 9 in two years, and after flipping my last one on the bottle at over 100 mph,(two days before my son was born) she was a little hesitant, but knows my love for the Fox's. Told her i wanted another toy, and was tired of wheelers. SO i got the green light.
I have a REALLY good machine shop around here, so im gonna talk to them and see what they can do for me as well, regardless of the heads i get. Whats the deal with the Taurus fan? and what is FAL VSC?

 

[HuskerNation]

Taurus fan is a very good mod if you can find one. A direct fit over your radiator. Basically getting rid of your clutch fan setup and going electric. You will just have to get a few parts, like dual switch relay and sensor. There are a few very good write ups.

FAL VSC= Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Controller

 

[Toxic302]

Good deal, thanks, ima look into that. i have a 3 core aluminum radiator now at the house in a box, and i wanted to do the electric fan.

 

[a91what]

Mishimoto has a nice dual fan setup with an aluminium shroud...

 

[LEEDAY Boss]

I replaced the E303 in the GT-40 crate motor that came with the car when i bought it with and Anderson B-31. It has ported Gt-40X and a T-Moss ported tubular Gt-40 intake. Car was instantly better from the first crank. Really woke up with a tune and a Zex 125 shot. Used a popular tuner here local in SW Ohio. He said that my combo shouldn't be able to make the power it does NA, but it does. I attribute that to the cam being matched closely with the "GT-40 stuff ". Should do better with good heads and a better intake but is nice for a mild combo. 315/328 NA, 412/445 on 125 shot.