70 mustang 351W build.

[Jaryd]

hmmmmm. How does one ID these?? the mustang is fixing to be moved off of my friends yard. to my grandparents house so i can really start working on it. where its at now its pretty much impossible for me to go over and work on it cause he's never home so i can never work on it. so as soon as its there. I'll be doing everything. I think I've changed my plans for fixing it up from the get go. I think I'll get it there clean the roof up and prim it. and prim any rust spots i see. then throw it all back together. Update the brakes a bit. to make sure they still work. throw new glass in it. and drive. I start school to be a mech in ether may or sept. So I can fix it up slowly at school. that means lifts and all sorts of goodies but i can only work on cars that run at school so i gotta be able to drive it there. the restore of the body and such can wait till i grad and have a good job. and all that. for now i just wanna be able to get it perfect mechanically. and when that happens I can just strip it and take it to a shop sand blast it fix whatever i gotta fix then paint. then throw back together. Does anyone see a prob with my plan???

 

[woodsnake]

Here is how to ID the transmission in the car.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/transID-auto.htm
Machine work, and parts, plus buying speed parts can get very expensive. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go? In order to use roller rocker arms, you will need to either buy heads that are drilled for an adjustable valve train, or get yours done. Machine work will add up, but can be managed. Shop your local Craigslist for a lot of these parts. KNOW what you are looking for, and what you are looking at! A basic rebuild on a 351 can be done for around 1500 dollars in new parts, plus machine work. Summit racing has complete engine kits that include pistons, rings, bearings and gaskets for around 450 dollars. You will need a cam kit, and ignition, exhaust, etc...Lots of this won't change. What ever you build will require similar expense. By sticking with the block that came with the car, you will minimize fabrication costs, and be able to use off the shelf items.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-mhp176-311/overview/make/ford
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k35-242-3/overview/make/ford
See if this guy will sell the intake and carb by itself:
http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/pts/3536080643.html
You can buy a duraspark distributor and module for cheap at the local junk yard or new at the parts store.
Roller rockers?
http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/pts/3669455714.html
Plus headers, mufflers, rear gears to match cam, plus torque converter. And then don't forget normal stuff, like a new heater core, carpet, plugs and wires, etc....
When I went to auto tech school, they only let me work on my car only during "shop" time, and about an hour and a half, after class.

 

[Jaryd]

good info.... Now if i rebuild the engine 351. will it really need to go to mech shop? and why do i need to get a cam to start with is the one in it no good??? I'm confused. I figured on rebuild kit with flat tops. headers, dist and all that. But wasn't thinking would need to cam right away. and Can you not do a budget rebuild for around 800?? :/ I'm still jobless But i wanna atleast get this thing driving again. its a shame to let her sit and never move. I've already got everything for rebuilding the old drum brakes. Picked up all four for 100 bucks. off of a guy here who has a 70's mustang and just swapped to disk. Theyre off of a running driving car.

 

[woodsnake]

I was merely giving you some options for the build. I didn't know if the engine was running in the car now, or not. Is it a 2V engine? 4V? What do you think it is missing, that is keeping it from running now? It's way easier to stay motivated about a car that does run, rather than a big paper weight in the yard..

 

[Jaryd]

well not sure on valve. But i know it was a running engine 4 years ago. and we turned the crank many many times and it felt really good not to hard to turn and not to easy. the oil in it still looks brand new and the coolent looks brand new. SO i think its a good engine. things i lack are carb and headers.... But. last month i pulled the engine and was gonna bring it here to my house to fiddle with and check stuff out. well we loaded it on a trailer and i was gonna pick it up next morning and it rained so water got in it. Not sure if that'll screw the engine or not??? or do you think it could still be good????

 

[woodsnake]

2V or 4V, refers to the Venturi's. Did it have a 2 barrel or 4 barrel intake? I doubt that it got ruined over night, however, you will want to drain it now as soon as you can...

 

[Jaryd]

Oh I've no clue what that is. and its been around a month since its happened and i haven't had the chance to mess with it... :/ it doesn't have a intake on it. I have a 4 barrel intake and plan to put a holley 650 on it. I'll just have to wait and see I'm picking the engine up tomorrow and bringing it home. with me. so i can start working on it getting it ready to run. Btw now that i think about it does anyone have a wiring diagram for all three harness's?? I've got to put the new harness's in sometime soon. and i have a book but its got like 5 different years in it and They are all diff it looks like. the main one i'm worried about is the dash.. thats a mess of wires... engine harness and body harness's should be easy enough for me to get right. and IS there anyone on this forum who lives In middle TN?? manchester or near by??? :/ would love to talk to someone in person. seems like most of you guys are No where near me..