Help Engine Tick.

[jahernandez]

Getting this ticking noise coming from the engine bay.
I'm not sure what it is maybe one of you do.
The car drives perfectly fine. You can hear it really good between 4-15 seconds.

 

[Noobz347]

Does it change at all when you push in the clutch?

 

[jahernandez]

No difference when the clutch is in or out plus I just had a new clutch assembly put in 800 miles ago so
I doubt it's a TOB or Pilot.
The ticking gets faster as it is revved up but you can't hear it past 2k rpms due to my exhaust.

 

[trinity_gt]

What led to this?

Did you start it up cold one day and suddenly it was ticking?

Or did this follow some spirited driving? High revs? Burn-out?

 

[84Ttop]

What kind of mileage is on the motor? I've seen a few high mileage 4.6 motors wear out the lash adjuster pockets In the heads which caused a really similar ticking noise. We wound up putting precision ground steel washers under the lash adjusters to tighten them up and it has been fine for almost 2 years now. Just a thought

 

[Jhussey1280]

It almost has that exhaust gasket leak sputter to me. Just a thought.

 

[rockyracoon]

Broken timing chain guides ? try listening with a stethoscope on the timing cover to see if you can pinpoint the noise.

 

[jahernandez]

It could have been ran hard I'm not quite sure, I left the car with my dad and once I got back from south padre on Tuesday it was doing this. The car had 82,000 miles on it so its not that high. The car does have a exhaust smell to it. The sound sounds like it is coming from either under the passenger side valve cover or under the engine. I'll get out there right now and try to pinpoint it.

 

[rockyracoon]

If it does seem like it is coming from behind the timing cover, please dont run the car much until you get it checked out as the plastic from a broken guide can clog up the oil pickup tube and starve the top end of oil. It happened to mine and galled some of the cam bores in the heads as well as the cam journals, plus the chain wore through the oil pump from rubbing against it. Luckily the block and crank were ok still.

 

[jahernandez]

I got out there and the sputter or tick (sounds mostly like a sputter) seems to be coming from under the car in the area of my passenger header (loudest here) OR seems to be coming from somewhere in cylinder 4/under the valve cover. If anyone of those part were broken or not functioning properly wouldn't I be able to tell with driving the car? The car drives perfectly fine. Once I get paid I'll take it in to check for exhaust leaks then I'll check behind the timing cover then heads. I'll start with the cheapest first. Thanks guys.

Anymore suggestions on what I should check out when I get in there?

 

[trinity_gt]

Check the spark plugs. Make sure they're all tight.

 

[jahernandez]

I spoke to my Dad about it today and he did say it was the lash adjusters due to running the engine on low oil (I have an oil leak). Has anyone ever replaced these things and what all does it take?

 

[jahernandez]

Actually I'll just leave the car as is now and I've decided I'm going to build a whole new engine for this car from the ground up. Since I don't want to be rebuilding the inside of a engine with 82,000 miles on it. I have no idea how hard it was ran before I purchased the car. I'm going to switch it over to 4v instead of 2v and I'm wanting forged internals. Any suggestions on blocks? I'm learning towards a Longblock so I'll have less internal work I plan on taking this car and sitting around 400-450 hp and have it as a Daily.

 

[rockyracoon]

Huh ? If you get a longblock youll have no internal work. why not build up that motor ? what does 89 K have to do with it ?

 

[trombonedemon]

Check the sparkplugs, you can feel the coil on plugs for bounce. No reason for rebuild if not needed.

 

[jahernandez]

Spark plugs have no bounce checked them so I'm ruling that out.
89k miles has a huge deal with it. To get around the HP that I want I'll need to get forged internals in my car right now and this engine has high miles. It would be a much better investment to build one up with forged internals and swap to 4v heads. ID rather have everything brand new. I dont plan on selling this car but rather keeping it and putting it away layer in life.

This link right here I think would be appropriate to start with or do one of you all have experience with this and can point me in the right direction? http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/99525250.htm

The car drives fine but I'm leaning towards that it is one of the lifters so I'll leave it as is and start on my new block.

What I ment with no internal work was that dont long blocks already come with the forged, rods, pistons, etc?

 

[Mattstang04]

The link goes to a short block, but that is a complete bottom end. You wont have to put the pistons, crank and rods together in the block. You will have to put heads and cams on top of the short block. A long block would come complete with heads and cams already installed.

 

[jahernandez]

That's what I thought Matt. Right now I'm looking at all options (short, long, crate) but I would prefer to build from the ground up. I plan on spending lots of money on this build would be dumb to use CL parts or cheapo parts which could end up hurting this build in the end. Modular Mustang Racing seems to have some nice blocks on there that I've been checking out. Have any of you guys built a motor before?

 

[Mattstang04]

I havent built one. Its a long term goal, its possible I might do one in the future. Of course I like the idea of buying a built longblock. Knowing its done right and any type of manufacturere guarantee is nice peace of mind.