Let's assume it's fuel related. First you need to test for fuel pressure and if it's not to spec possible causes are: bad fuel pump, clogged filter or a failed regulator. Do the easiest first. Filter, replace if you don't know how long it's been in use. FPR, remove the vacuum line. If there is any hint of gasoline it needs to be replaced. To confirm the fuel pump the first two possible causes need to be verified as being good. Fuel pump needs to be tested KOEO and KOER. KOEO should be about 40 psi. KOER about 35 psi.
94 cobra run rough, cuts off, but runs a little better with MAF unplugged
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There is a schraeder valve on the passenger side front of the fuel rail. You hook a fuel pressure gauge in there when the car is running. Should be around 35-38 psi at idle. As long as it's close the car should run fine. If it's like 60 psi you have a problem.
Kurt
Kurt
Once you turn the key to the on position and hear the fuel pump it should come right up to pressure. It actually isn't necessary to start it up.
Kurt
Kurt
Well it is important to check the pressure while running so as to ensure the pressure is being maintained.
This is going to sound silly, but did the previous owner install an SCT switch chip? I have on installed on my car. When I took it to the body shop, it somehow got switched to one of the non-running positions and behaved exactly as you describe (turns over, barely cranks up, requires heavy gas pedal application to stay barely running). Turned it back to one of the tune positions and it ran perfect.
earleys94gt
Active Member
Code 564 is low fan circuit relay, check the relay as well as the grounds in the engine bay...sometimes a wire brush can clean all the crap off of the grounds.
You said before the car has been sitting, and that got me to thinking if something like bad gas could/is the problem or adding to it??
You said before the car has been sitting, and that got me to thinking if something like bad gas could/is the problem or adding to it??
02 281
I am not sure what that is, how do I check that?
Hey guys it was raining pretty tough over here and with the holiday I have not had a chance to check into the fuel pressure. But let me ask you this. I got in contact with Pro-M and explained my MAF sensor issue with their CAI kit. ANd they guy told me that there is no OEM replacement MAF for 24lb injectors? Basically he said I will need to buy a new kit, which is this http://www.promracing.com/mass-air-meters/75mm-plastic-bullet-un-flanged.html . Does that sound correct?
This is the replacement MAF I purchased.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...48upZ9gsmv?itemIdentifier=267297_298837_4995_
Remove the passenger side kick panel (panel in front of the door, just below the dash). You'll see the PCM (engine computer) mounted underneath it with the connector on the top side slightly out of view. On the bottom side of the PCM will be a test port with a small plastic cover. If there is a wire protruding from the test port, then the PO likely installed a switch chip. A switch chip is basically just a chip with different engine tunes burned onto it which is installed into the test port connector. Which tune is currently active is controlled by a small 8-position rotary switch connected to the chip at the PCM via a long cable. Positions 1 through 3 are usually the tune positions, 4 is the stock tune, and all others are usually non-running positions.
They're technically correct in that there is no Mustang-specific stock 24lb injector MAF sensor. The Cobra-specific computer compensates for the 24lb injectors. All 1994-1995 Mustangs had the same MAF sensor; it was also found on a lot of other Ford vehicles. Check out this post for a list of which vehicles: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/need-help-with-maf-coversion.823903/#post-8294825
I hate to start throwing parts at this thing, but after some research I am seeing some people reporting issues like mine. This is not the same year but I have a similar issue.
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I had a run condition just like yours with a 92 . It would not idle with the mass air conected and if you pedaled it it would pop and miss fire in the intake . Tried everything from mass air to computor . Pulled a vac line and it ran better but still crappy . Turned out to be an injector problem . I think one or more were stuck open . When the mass air was pulled the limp mode would let it lean a bit an run . It might not be the problem but something else to look at ."
How do you test injectors? Mine is doing the same thing with the MAF plugged in.
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I had a run condition just like yours with a 92 . It would not idle with the mass air conected and if you pedaled it it would pop and miss fire in the intake . Tried everything from mass air to computor . Pulled a vac line and it ran better but still crappy . Turned out to be an injector problem . I think one or more were stuck open . When the mass air was pulled the limp mode would let it lean a bit an run . It might not be the problem but something else to look at .
How do you test injectors? Mine is doing the same thing with the MAF plugged in.
You can test if they are firing with a node light. As to flow they may need to be pulled. Before doing that I would run some injector cleaner through them first. Also there is a system that allows you to clean injectors without removing them. Some shops will have the equipment to do this.
Anyone notice that the avatars are upside down today. Must be an April 1st thing.
Anyone notice that the avatars are upside down today. Must be an April 1st thing.
Ok I will look into testing my injectors as well as running some injector cleaner through them. Also I forgot to mention that I have a ton of powder coated parts under the hood (upper/lower manifold, valve covers, accessory brackets..). It was recommended that I check the grounds too. I will be doing that this week as well. Will report back....
Also quick question, the "node light" you speak of is that a normal test light? I am guessing I will touch the terminal on the top of each injector, turn the car on and see if it lights up? Sorry most of this i have never done before. Does anyone have a write up for doing this?
Thanks
Also quick question, the "node light" you speak of is that a normal test light? I am guessing I will touch the terminal on the top of each injector, turn the car on and see if it lights up? Sorry most of this i have never done before. Does anyone have a write up for doing this?
Thanks
Just google it for instructions/video. You can make the node light using a LED bulb.
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