1986 fox rebuild questions?

odsysean · Apr 1, 2013

I'm rebuilding my 86 vert and i'm running into some issues. Before I decided to rebuild, the car ran like crap. I tore the motor apart and each piston was coated in carbon due to misfires and detonation... I assumed the pcm was bad due to getting wet. After that, wires started breaking in my hands off the efi harness... I decided to convert to a carb to save me trouble but people on this forum told me to stay efi due to fuel consumption purposes. I go to an automotive school and we have a machine shop that does work with no labor charge, only charges you for materials. Also, that instructor gets great deals on automotive parts so i'm letting them rebuild my bottom end... possibly have it bored .030 over for about 80 bucks. However, I want to save money and use what I already have, besides a cam. I want to keep this car as a daily driver, so which cam would be best for this? I hear that the e303 is good, but is barely noticeable and robs you of low end power. I'd like to keep that low end power.

1. I have a stock bottom end, not making it a stroker, but maybe boring .030 by my machine shop.

2. I have the e7te heads, I need one through hole for the intake bolt to be helicoiled... an intake bolt snapped off in the head to the point I had to drill it out and I messed up drilling it so I have to helicoil it if possible. Also, are these heads worth porting and polishing? I can have it done for cheap by my machine shop.

3.The smog system... my smog pump is seized and I don't feel like paying out the @$$ for a new pump, charcoal canister and hoses. regardless of emissions. How can I eliminate this whole system? The pulley doesn't get rid of all the vacuum lines and hoses.

4. The pistons were all coated in a thick layer of carbon, due to misfires and detonation. The car is a convertible and when I removed the pcm there was green corrosion on some pins so I assume the pcm is bad, also, the efi harness is shot so I guess I need a new one. No I will not buy 25 year old copper from a junk yard, I want this car to last me. Are pcm's sold at autoparts stores worth the $120 they sell them for? it would need to be shipped. Or am I better off purchasing an a9l off ebay?

5. The upper&lower intakes.... are they worth being ported and polished as well for better efficiency? Might sound like a dumb question to many of you but i'm trying to use what I have.

6.My dash is shot... idk where to buy a new one but my friend has autometer guages I can buy off him for 10 each and I dont need heat or a/c right now especially being that its a convertible. That racing aluminum dash I found on www.latemodelrestoration.com sells for a little over 200 bucks, I could buy that, rivet it in, drill holes for guages and save weight altogether or I can buy a 93 dash off a guy at my work in good condition for 50 bucks, but I would need a guage cluster which runs over 150 in good condition, not to mention i need to fabricate my own mounts for it being that it is a different dash and the mounts are different. SO alum. dash off latemodel or fabricate own mounts and buy cluster and dash? I work a lot and dont really have time for making mounts. Also, as goes for heat, I can deal with buying a 12v heater off quadratec for jeeps if i must.

7. MAF sensor... what can I use for a mostly stock 302/306 with a streetable cam, ported/polished intakes and heads?

8.This is a huge project for me and I just want to get it done

ThatBear · Apr 1, 2013

1. I would only bore as much as it needs to clean everything up. It doesn't really give that much extra power anyways.
2. Sure port them if you can get it cheap. Also gt40p heads aren't bad, get them from a junkyard off an explorer with a 5.0, could get the manifold off one as well
3. Remove all the system from the car and plug the holes? Not 100% sure on that one though
4. If I'm not mistaken LMR should sell the computers with free shipping at that. Same for the harness I think
5. Pretty much the same as #2. Anything extra would help, but like I said gt40 intakes aren't expensive and they flow decent
6. I think a 93 dash would need some fabricating. They look different to me on the outside. For $50 its worth a shot
7. The stock MAF will be good enough.
8. Good luck, don't get frustrated, take your time. Nothing good comes from rushing a project. Trust me lol

odsysean · Apr 1, 2013

ThatBear...

1. I was thinking the same thing
2. If I can find a nice set, Ill try to get the gt40 irons... already found a set on CL off a 93 cobra for 350
3. me either lol
4.I found a harness and a9l on CL for 200 i could give a shot maybe
5.I find those intakes everywhere but I want to check my school for pricing first
6.The 93 dash mounting plate are in different spots, but not too far from here I found an add for $60 with 86 dash, dash harness and cluster in good shape
7. The 86-88 doesnt have MAF so I would need the conversion...
8.Frustration is an understatement lol

ThatBear · Apr 1, 2013

My bad about the MAF lol didn't realize it as I was typing. My last fox an 89 gt had a whole explorer engine from a 98 freshly rebuilt bottom to top with a trickflow stage 1 cam, gt40p heads and 1.7RR. Dynoed 295whp. It surprised me

02 281 GT · Apr 2, 2013

The associated smog pump equipment consists of the hoses from the pump to the AIR tubes behind the heads and the other AIR tube to the rear cats. You can also remove the associated vacuum lines and just cap off any unused vacuum ports (they sell rubber cap assortments at all the parts stores). You can run a short belt once the smog pump is removed to bypass the pulley. See this thread for examples: Schematic and routing for Short Belts

I'm pretty sure that jrichker or someone else may have actual vacuum diagrams to show you exactly what you can remove if you want to delete the smog system.

As far as the MAF goes, a '94-'95 MAF would be a good choice if you want to run a stocker. They were interchangeable with many other vehicles. See this thread for a list of vehicles from which you could grab a MAF: EFI to carb or keep EFI?

jrichker · Apr 2, 2013

If you have catalytic converters, you need the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) in place and working. If it isn't the cats will clog and choke over time.

Thermactor Air System
Some review of how it works...

Revised 17-Sept-2011 to add testing procedure.

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps break down the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump draws air from an inlet filter in the front of the pump. The smog pump puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. Check valves located after the TAB & TAD solenoids prevent hot exhaust gases from damaging the control valves or pump in case of a backfire. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the Bypass valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. This dumps the pump's output to the atmosphere, and reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT. The Bypass valve also opens during deceleration to reduce or prevent backfires.

Code 44 RH side air not functioning.
Code 94 LH side air not functioning.

The computer uses the change in the O2 sensor readings to detect operation of the Thermactor control valves. When the dump valve opens, it reduces the O2 readings in the exhaust system. Then it closes the dump valve and the O2 readings increase. By toggling the dump valve (TAB), the computer tests for the 44/94 codes.

Failure mode is usually due to a clogged air crossover tube, where one or both sides of the tube clog with carbon. The air crossover tube mounts on the back of the cylinder heads and supplies air to each of the Thermactor air passages cast into the cylinder heads. When the heads do not get the proper air delivery, they set codes 44 & 94, depending on which passage is clogged. It is possible to get both 44 & 94, which would suggest that the air pump or control valves are not working correctly, or the crossover tube is full of carbon or missing.

Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid.

For 94-95 cars: the colors are different. The White/Red wire (TAB control) is White/Orange (Pin 31 on the PCM). The Green/Black wire (TAD control) should be Brown (pin 34 at the PCM). Thanks to HISSIN50 for this tip.

Testing the system:

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.

Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve.

The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.

The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheel well turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the
vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel & the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin 32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38 and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin 38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power & ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.

Typical resistance of the solenoid valves is in the range of 20-70 Ohms.

Theory of operation:
Catalytic converters consist of two different types of catalysts: Reduction and Oxidation.
The Reduction catalyst is the first converter in a 5.0 Mustang, and the Oxidation converter is the second converter. The Oxidation converter uses the extra air from the smog pump to burn the excess HC. Aftermarket converters that use the smog pump often combine both types of catalysts in one housing. Since all catalytic reactions depend on heat to happen, catalytic converters do not work as efficiently with long tube headers. The extra length of the long tubes reduces the heat available to operate the O2 sensors and the catalytic converters. That will cause emissions problems, and reduce the chances of passing an actual smog test.

Now for the Chemistry...
"The reduction catalyst is the first stage of the catalytic converter. It uses platinum and rhodium to help reduce the NOx emissions. When an NO or NO2 molecule contacts the catalyst, the catalyst rips the nitrogen atom out of the molecule and holds on to it, freeing the oxygen in the form of O2. The nitrogen atoms bond with other nitrogen atoms that are also stuck to the catalyst, forming N2. For example:

2NO => N2 + O2 or 2NO2 => N2 + 2O2

The oxidation catalyst is the second stage of the catalytic converter. It reduces the unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide by burning (oxidizing) them over a platinum and palladium catalyst. This catalyst aids the reaction of the CO and hydrocarbons with the remaining oxygen in the exhaust gas. For example:

2CO + O2 => 2CO2

There are two main types of structures used in catalytic converters -- honeycomb and ceramic beads. Most cars today use a honeycomb structure." Quote courtesy of How Stuff Works (HowStuffWorks "Catalysts")

What happens when there is no extra air from the smog pump...
As engines age, the quality of tune decreases and wear causes them to burn oil. We have all seem cars that go down the road puffing blue or black smoke from the tailpipe. Oil consumption and poor tune increase the amount of HC the oxidation catalyst has to deal with. The excess HC that the converters cannot oxidize due to lack of extra air becomes a crusty coating inside the honeycomb structure. This effectively reduces the size of the honeycomb passageways and builds up thicker over time and mileage. Continuous usage under such conditions will cause the converter to fail and clog. The extra air provided by the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) is essential for the oxidation process. It oxidizes the added HC from oil consumption and poor tune and keeps the HC levels within acceptable limits.

Newer catalytic converters do not use the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) because they are designed to work with an improved computer system that runs leaner and cleaner
They add an extra set of O2 sensors after the catalytic converters to monitor the oxygen and HC levels. Using this additional information, the improved computer system adjusts the air/fuel mixture for cleaner combustion and reduced emissions. If the computer cannot compensate for the added load of emissions due to wear and poor tune, the catalytic converters will eventually fail and clog. The periodic checks (smog inspections) are supposed to help owners keep track of problems and get them repaired. Use them on an 86-95 Mustang and you will slowly kill them with the pollutants that they are not designed to deal with.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

odsysean · Apr 2, 2013

i bought the car without cats and figured the system is pointless without them... im just trying to save money to get it working for now then add on

1200gt · Apr 3, 2013

Jrichker,

As always, you present some awsome articles!

I have an offroad H-pipes installed now so I assume my Thermactor Air System is of no use anyway, now. I was considering taking the whole system out to clean up some space and HP, but was not sure if I would run into engine managment problems done the road. I have and 86gt speed density for the moment, but will be converting soon to MAF.

If I take it all out now would I have issues?

BTW, I don't have to muster at the smog inspection lane.

clemsonf250 · Apr 3, 2013

I ran my 86 for 8 years without smog pump, cats, etc. IMO it runs better without it.

TOOLOW91 · Apr 4, 2013

1200gt said:
Jrichker,

As always, you present some awsome articles!

I have an offroad H-pipes installed now so I assume my Thermactor Air System is of no use anyway, now. I was considering taking the whole system out to clean up some space and HP, but was not sure if I would run into engine managment problems done the road. I have and 86gt speed density for the moment, but will be converting soon to MAF.

If I take it all out now would I have issues?

BTW, I don't have to muster at the smog inspection lane.

No it will not cause any issues , computer may have a soft code or two but not gonna leave your check engine light on or anything

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers

1200gt · Apr 4, 2013

I'm pulling mine too.

Would it be best to get the EGR delete setup or just try to bypass it. I'm big on having things look neat and professional.

I have been researching the belt swap issue when pulling the smog pump, and understand it to be an 84.5 length that is, if you are running underdrive pulleys.

The only problem in my mind that I see comming my way is that I live in South Florida and an over-heating issues may come into play using the UDP's.

So, getting everything to jive together is where I'm trying to go. I kind of want to run the UDP's you-know. They are just something else cool to put on the car that if I get a bit of HP help out of, all the better.

I have a cold air kit to install so I 'm wondering how this all will join together with an EGR delete setup if I go that route???

Thanks for for the feedback!

mikestang63 · Apr 4, 2013

1200gt said:
I'm pulling mine too.

Would it be best to get the EGR delete setup or just try to bypass it. I'm big on having things look neat and professional.

I have been researching the belt swap issue when pulling the smog pump, and understand it to be an 84.5 length that is, if you are running underdrive pulleys.

The only problem in my mind that I see comming my way is that I live in South Florida and an over-heating issues may come into play using the UDP's.

So, getting everything to jive together is where I'm trying to go. I kind of want to run the UDP's you-know. They are just something else cool to put on the car that if I get a bit of HP help out of, all the better.

I have a cold air kit to install so I 'm wondering how this all will join together with an EGR delete setup if I go that route???

Thanks for for the feedback!

I'm sure you may get differing opinions, but here is my 2 cents.

1) IMO leave the EGR. It is not worth the hassle. The correct way to remove the EGR would be to remove it and either block off the opening or get a delete spacer, then have the car retuned so the computer doesn't throw off codes and your car doesnt drive like crap. The EGR does not impact performance at WOT anyway. I've seen guys use resistors and other methods to trick the computer into thinking the car is WOT but I would advise against that route.
2) The length of the belt will depend on the size of the pulleys- sometimes it is 83.5, sometimes 84.5. Best to take a piece of string and mock it up or get both at the parts store and bring the one that doesnt fit back.
3) Don't fear the U/D pulleys. March and BBK make U/D pulleys that do not compromise cooling or charging. I've had them on several cars down here and never had a cooling problem. The only times I have seen issues is when people throw on a 3.5" crank race pulley and/or if your cooling system is already suspect. I would not suggest doing the U/D pulleys if you don't have a 3G alternator. I am in the process of installing U/D pulleys and a Taurus fan with a FAL VSC.
4) The CAI will give you a nice little bump in HP and is separate from the EGR system. I would not recommend you install a CAI with the filter inside the engine compartment as it defeats the purpose of cold air and is subject to fan wash causing turbulence in the air stream.

1200gt · Apr 4, 2013

mikestang63 said:
I'm sure you may get differing opinions, but here is my 2 cents.

1) IMO leave the EGR. It is not worth the hassle. The correct way to remove the EGR would be to remove it and either block off the opening or get a delete spacer, then have the car retuned so the computer doesn't throw off codes and your car doesnt drive like crap. The EGR does not impact performance at WOT anyway. I've seen guys use resistors and other methods to trick the computer into thinking the car is WOT but I would advise against that route.
2) The length of the belt will depend on the size of the pulleys- sometimes it is 83.5, sometimes 84.5. Best to take a piece of string and mock it up or get both at the parts store and bring the one that doesnt fit back.
3) Don't fear the U/D pulleys. March and BBK make U/D pulleys that do not compromise cooling or charging. I've had them on several cars down here and never had a cooling problem. The only times I have seen issues is when people throw on a 3.5" crank race pulley and/or if your cooling system is already suspect. I would not suggest doing the U/D pulleys if you don't have a 3G alternator. I am in the process of installing U/D pulleys and a Taurus fan with a FAL VSC.
4) The CAI will give you a nice little bump in HP and is separate from the EGR system. I would not recommend you install a CAI with the filter inside the engine compartment as it defeats the purpose of cold air and is subject to fan wash causing turbulence in the air stream.

OK Mike, I guess I will question you more a little later about the details of the EGR retention as it conjoins with the smog pump removal. Actually I thought I would be removing everything related to the Thermactor Air System as diagramed above, but I see that the EGR is sidelined from that diagram. You can tell I'm out of my specialty with this mod...

I will take your advice as I respect it: I will leave the EGR in place in whatever the final configuration is.

The UDP's: I did read that there were different types. LMR sells a red set that I had my eyes on, I thought they were BBK, but not sure. What wording should I specify when ordering? ( street system - certainly not race...) I also read that the anodized pieces sometimes chip, so I might just get the plain aluminium ones. The red happens to match a fan brace that I bought years back. I was hoping to begin a red theme on the engine.

Tarus Fan? Is this a JY pull of yours and what is the FAL VSC - I'm tired, can't think well enough tonight to get thru the acronyms.

mikestang63 · Apr 4, 2013

1200gt said:
OK Mike, I guess I will question you more a little later about the details of the EGR retention as it conjoins with the smog pump removal. Actually I thought I would be removing everything related to the Thermactor Air System as diagramed above, but I see that the EGR is sidelined from that diagram. You can tell I'm out of my specialty with this mod...

I will take your advice as I respect it: I will leave the EGR in place in whatever the final configuration is.

The UDP's: I did read that there were different types. LMR sells a red set that I had my eyes on, I thought they were BBK, but not sure. What wording should I specify when ordering? ( street system - certainly not race...) I also read that the anodized pieces sometimes chip, so I might just get the plain aluminium ones. The red happens to match a fan brace that I bought years back. I was hoping to begin a red theme on the engine.

Tarus Fan? Is this a JY pull of yours and what is the FAL VSC - I'm tired, can't think well enough tonight to get thru the acronyms.

Hey, you can pm me if needed buddy as I know there are a few people here who frown upon removing the smog equipment. I respect their opinion but I have removed the smog pump and hoses off Mustangs since the 80's, and have never had it cause a problem.

Here's a quick overview.

The EGR is different from the Thermactor system. You can go ahead and remove the smog pump, hoses, and it will not impact the EGR and will not throw off the CEL. The reason I don't like removing the EGR is that does cause a CEL and cause driveability issues unless you get a tune. If you don't have the cats anymore, there is no reason to still have the smog stuff. You can remove the pump, rubber hoses and two vacuum hoses from the TAD and TAB valves and then stick a small bolt in each vacuum hose and tuck them away. I capped off the metal line coming from the crossover tube off the back of the heads as that is easier than trying to get the crossover tube off. If you still have the cats and are switching to an off road X or H pipe, you can either pinch or cap off the small metal tube coming from the new X or H pipe as you don't need that anymore. For the belt, you can either run a short belt or the stock belt with a smog pump delete. I pulled my smog stuff 2 weeks ago this way I have a smog pump delete only because I got it for $5 at the JY, however they are prone to bearing failure and when this one does I'll just run a short belt.

For the pulleys, they make them in steel or aluminum and in race and two types of street versions. The steel ones are more durable but are heavier and don't give the same hp pickup. IMO you do not want the race version as that will cause charging and cooling problems. The anodized do tend to chip. If you go to the March or BBK sites, the difference in the regular street and the "power amp" type of pulley set which they say is better for charging and cooling is the alternator pulley is smaller - I think 1 11/16 vs. 2 1/2. Personally, I've run the regular street set on several cars with no problem, as long as your cooling and charging system (3G is a must) are fine. In fact, I just bought a set off Ebay that is a March U/D billet set with I think a 5 1/2" crank, a slightly smaller H20 pulley ( 4 3/8"?) and a 2 1/2" alt pulley for $75. You can get them new for about $120 and I think that is a 83.5" belt

For the Taurus fan, I pulled that from a 90's 3.8 v6 Taurus. You need to do some minor trimming, add some foam insulation and drill a few holes for the stock overflow tank and the radiator zip ties on top, then I'll attach to small L shaped brackets on the bottom to fit into the stock lower radiator support. IMO it is the best electric fan to put in as it is a Ford factory part, is cheap, and pushes more air than just about any other fan. I suggest when you pull the fan at the JY, make sure you get the pigtail and as much wiring. Find a battery and test it. It is a two speed so put the black to the - and the blue wire (high speed) to the + to make sure it runs.

FAL VSC- you need some sort of controller for the fan. It should be a Variable Speed Controller - VSC- versus one that just goes on and off as the fan will spike the amps on start up and you don't want it to draw that much power. There are two VSC's I recommend. One is made by DCC and the Flex A Lite - FAL- 33054 controllers. They are both good but it takes almost 2 months to get the DCC one and they are both about $100. The VSC will come on with a "soft touch" at around 60% or so at start up and also when the A/C comes on and has a thermostat control so you can adjust when it comes on and off.

Here is a good write up MFE did on the fan and VSC install. I plan on doing my U/D and fan install over the next month so let me know when you are ready,

http://forums.corral.net/forums/articles/898470-installing-taurus-fan-vsc-5-0-a.html

1200gt · Apr 5, 2013

Mike thanks a bunch for this awsome info!!! I wassssssss hitting the JY yesterday, but got held up with my leaking roof! Had to cover it before the rain last night - JUST in time! That's a whole other project that I will be getting to soon - Re-roofing my house.

I believe another friend on here is doing the efan and controller on his on-going Rebuild. I have been posting with him as well, about his plans for an efan and I believe he also got a similar fan from a donor Ford. He hasn't gotten around to the install part yet.

You know, I don't mind spending the money if I get good stuff that will both give some benifit to power or gas milage and longevity of the part. (pulleys and DCC are no exceptions) Ofcoarse I want it to look nice too. I think I am going for the fulll pull of the smog pump setup becuase I have the whole front clip off the car and I am getting ready to paint the fender stuff that I told you about.

I will also go for the UDP's as well being that I just got a new water pump, 2 core x1" aluminium radiator, and the aforemention efan plans. My "Xpipe is a BBK offroad - no EGR tubes. I have an 130 amp alternator as well.

I have two efans from other Fox donors that I bought years ago and stowed for this rebuild. One of them has a controller on it and somesort of relay. I will pulll it from the storage and take a second look - then send you a pic for your comments. I no doubt will not be getting around to the efan install right away so I may as well order a controller now and wait. I still have to sand a prep the engine bay. I decided to paint it black because it hides all the machine-gun holes that ford put in the surrounds. Funny how you intend to just pull one part and it turns into an allout rebuild. I initially intended to just fix a leaking radiator and now I'm doing everything dhort of pulling the engine! - which I plan to do later anyway after I get the other motor built, but that wil be a while.

OK, enough. I'll be in touch.

Thanks again for the help; I really appreciate you taking the time to write-up these responses. Certainly others will benifit as well...

1200gt · Apr 5, 2013

odsysean said:
I'm rebuilding my 86 vert and i'm running into some issues. Before I decided to rebuild, the car ran like crap. I tore the motor apart and each piston was coated in carbon due to misfires and detonation... I assumed the pcm was bad due to getting wet. After that, wires started breaking in my hands off the efi harness... I decided to convert to a carb to save me trouble but people on this forum told me to stay efi due to fuel consumption purposes. I go to an automotive school and we have a machine shop that does work with no labor charge, only charges you for materials. Also, that instructor gets great deals on automotive parts so i'm letting them rebuild my bottom end... possibly have it bored .030 over for about 80 bucks. However, I want to save money and use what I already have, besides a cam. I want to keep this car as a daily driver, so which cam would be best for this? I hear that the e303 is good, but is barely noticeable and robs you of low end power. I'd like to keep that low end power.

1. I have a stock bottom end, not making it a stroker, but maybe boring .030 by my machine shop.

2. I have the e7te heads, I need one through hole for the intake bolt to be helicoiled... an intake bolt snapped off in the head to the point I had to drill it out and I messed up drilling it so I have to helicoil it if possible. Also, are these heads worth porting and polishing? I can have it done for cheap by my machine shop.

3.The smog system... my smog pump is seized and I don't feel like paying out the @$$ for a new pump, charcoal canister and hoses. regardless of emissions. How can I eliminate this whole system? The pulley doesn't get rid of all the vacuum lines and hoses.

4. The pistons were all coated in a thick layer of carbon, due to misfires and detonation. The car is a convertible and when I removed the pcm there was green corrosion on some pins so I assume the pcm is bad, also, the efi harness is shot so I guess I need a new one. No I will not buy 25 year old copper from a junk yard, I want this car to last me. Are pcm's sold at autoparts stores worth the $120 they sell them for? it would need to be shipped. Or am I better off purchasing an a9l off ebay?

5. The upper&lower intakes.... are they worth being ported and polished as well for better efficiency? Might sound like a dumb question to many of you but i'm trying to use what I have.

6.My dash is shot... idk where to buy a new one but my friend has autometer guages I can buy off him for 10 each and I dont need heat or a/c right now especially being that its a convertible. That racing aluminum dash I found on www.latemodelrestoration.com sells for a little over 200 bucks, I could buy that, rivet it in, drill holes for guages and save weight altogether or I can buy a 93 dash off a guy at my work in good condition for 50 bucks, but I would need a guage cluster which runs over 150 in good condition, not to mention i need to fabricate my own mounts for it being that it is a different dash and the mounts are different. SO alum. dash off latemodel or fabricate own mounts and buy cluster and dash? I work a lot and dont really have time for making mounts. Also, as goes for heat, I can deal with buying a 12v heater off quadratec for jeeps if i must.

7. MAF sensor... what can I use for a mostly stock 302/306 with a streetable cam, ported/polished intakes and heads?

8.This is a huge project for me and I just want to get it done

Hey Sean, I just thought! - Didn't mean to hi-jack your thread with smog pump and efan question... you'll probably need the info anyway though.

So what have you accomplished as-yet on your 86 rebuild? As you may know, I have an 86gt Vert also and am doing some rebuilding of it. So far I've covered a lot of ground collecting ideas as well as parts specific to the 86. Feel free to ask me any question - on here ofcoare, and I say this because if I don't know the answer, certainly someone far more knowledgeable than me will chime-in and get you directed to the right answer.

Hope to hear from you...

Dwayne

BTW, I'd stick with the 86 Dash as all of the surround part like arm rest and panels seem to hold up better than the 87 and new stuff. My arm rest still look great after 26 years and some in the JY do also...

mikestang63 · Apr 5, 2013

1200gt said:
OK Mike, I guess I will question you more a little later about the details of the EGR retention as it conjoins with the smog pump removal. Actually I thought I would be removing everything related to the Thermactor Air System as diagramed above, but I see that the EGR is sidelined from that diagram. You can tell I'm out of my specialty with this mod...

I will take your advice as I respect it: I will leave the EGR in place in whatever the final configuration is.

The UDP's: I did read that there were different types. LMR sells a red set that I had my eyes on, I thought they were BBK, but not sure. What wording should I specify when ordering? ( street system - certainly not race...) I also read that the anodized pieces sometimes chip, so I might just get the plain aluminium ones. The red happens to match a fan brace that I bought years back. I was hoping to begin a red theme on the engine.

Tarus Fan? Is this a JY pull of yours and what is the FAL VSC - I'm tired, can't think well enough tonight to get thru the acronyms.

Sorry about the hijack thread Sean.

Anytime Dwayne. Glad to know you can shoot paint as I suck at it and will need someone when I decide to replace my stock trunk lid with the rack for one without the rack and an LX anniversary wing.

If you head up to the JY can you let me know if you spot a driver side black leather seat (94-2004) in good shape? thanks

95PGTTech · Apr 5, 2013

odsysean said:
I'm rebuilding my 86 vert and i'm running into some issues. Before I decided to rebuild, the car ran like crap. I tore the motor apart and each piston was coated in carbon due to misfires and detonation... I assumed the pcm was bad due to getting wet. After that, wires started breaking in my hands off the efi harness... I decided to convert to a carb to save me trouble but people on this forum told me to stay efi due to fuel consumption purposes. I go to an automotive school and we have a machine shop that does work with no labor charge, only charges you for materials. Also, that instructor gets great deals on automotive parts so i'm letting them rebuild my bottom end... possibly have it bored .030 over for about 80 bucks. However, I want to save money and use what I already have, besides a cam. I want to keep this car as a daily driver, so which cam would be best for this? I hear that the e303 is good, but is barely noticeable and robs you of low end power. I'd like to keep that low end power.

Use the stock cam and upgrade the roller rocker ratio if you are concerned about the low end. The carb is personal preference - I prefer the driveability and tunability of EFI but I know of a lot of carb cars that run just as well. Poorly tuned carbs will perform just as poorly as poorly tuned EFI systems.

1. I have a stock bottom end, not making it a stroker, but maybe boring .030 by my machine shop.

Only overbore if necessary. Hone it if you can get away with it. .030" over will require new pistons and the rotating assembly to be rebalanced. You will not gain any horsepower with the overbore.

2. I have the e7te heads, I need one through hole for the intake bolt to be helicoiled... an intake bolt snapped off in the head to the point I had to drill it out and I messed up drilling it so I have to helicoil it if possible. Also, are these heads worth porting and polishing? I can have it done for cheap by my machine shop.

The money saved from #1 should be put into a set of heads, at least GT40s. This is the biggest bottleneck to your motor as-is. Especially with the work needed to your stock ones.

3.The smog system... my smog pump is seized and I don't feel like paying out the @$$ for a new pump, charcoal canister and hoses. regardless of emissions. How can I eliminate this whole system? The pulley doesn't get rid of all the vacuum lines and hoses.

Start at the pump and start chucking into the trash can. It's a pretty simple process to trace the vacuum lines from the pump. When you get back to the vacuum manifold, simply cap off the nipple. Same process with the electrical connections. If you want to go nuts, unloom the harness and de-pin the ECM. The charcoal canister is not part of the smog system, it is part of the EVAP system.

4. The pistons were all coated in a thick layer of carbon, due to misfires and detonation. The car is a convertible and when I removed the pcm there was green corrosion on some pins so I assume the pcm is bad, also, the efi harness is shot so I guess I need a new one. No I will not buy 25 year old copper from a junk yard, I want this car to last me. Are pcm's sold at autoparts stores worth the $120 they sell them for? it would need to be shipped. Or am I better off purchasing an a9l off ebay?

This carbon build up is normal and will happen on any vehicle running only unleaded fuel. Detonation or misfires would be signified by pitting of the piston, holes, burn marks, etc. Auto parts stores are remanufactured units and it's a shot in the dark, as is an eBay one. I'd purchase from someone offering a warranty/return right before you're ready to start the car up. Good luck finding a new/good harness for less than your first born child - you're better of taking yours apart and addressing the problematic areas.

5. The upper&lower intakes.... are they worth being ported and polished as well for better efficiency? Might sound like a dumb question to many of you but i'm trying to use what I have.

Ever heard the saying you cannot polish a piece of ? Or "good money chasing bad money". The stock upper and lower, like the heads, are good paperweights. At minimum find a set of GT40s.

6.My dash is shot... idk where to buy a new one but my friend has autometer guages I can buy off him for 10 each and I dont need heat or a/c right now especially being that its a convertible. That racing aluminum dash I found on www.latemodelrestoration.com sells for a little over 200 bucks, I could buy that, rivet it in, drill holes for guages and save weight altogether or I can buy a 93 dash off a guy at my work in good condition for 50 bucks, but I would need a guage cluster which runs over 150 in good condition, not to mention i need to fabricate my own mounts for it being that it is a different dash and the mounts are different. SO alum. dash off latemodel or fabricate own mounts and buy cluster and dash? I work a lot and dont really have time for making mounts. Also, as goes for heat, I can deal with buying a 12v heater off quadratec for jeeps if i must.

Put in the OEM dash your friend has. You do not need to make brackets. With everything else you have going on, you need to UNCOMPLICATE this build.

7. MAF sensor... what can I use for a mostly stock 302/306 with a streetable cam, ported/polished intakes and heads?

This really is a good discussion for you and your tuner. The one I use for my Fox customers and SN95 5.0L prefers a Lightning 90mm MAF and 42 lb injectors for HCI setups. While a bit more than needed, they work well with a simple drop-in fuel pump and allow the user some headroom to grow while being able to provide the tuner a wide range of values to work with to get OEM-type driveability.

1200gt · Apr 5, 2013

95PGTTech said:
Only overbore if necessary. Hone it if you can get away with it. .030" over will require new pistons and the rotating assembly to be rebalanced. You will not gain any horsepower with the overbore.

Doesn't the 86 have flattop pistons that have minimal valve reliefs, and don't match up to most Cylinder Heads? - Maybe the GT40's will clear the pistons. Just want to clarify....

1200gt · Apr 5, 2013

mikestang63 said:
If you head up to the JY can you let me know if you spot a driver side black leather seat (94-2004) in good shape? thanks

For sure Mike!

1986 fox rebuild questions?

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