Two New Passes

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Ahhh, good times. Makes me want to get out to the track again sometime. It's really a shame our local track shut down. I have to drive a bit further to Topeka now, and they are a bit more strict with tech.

What tires and tire pressure you running?

I have been tempted for a while to throw the nitrous setup from my 88 on the GT. The system is just sitting in the garage now. Add a window switch so I don't break anything *when* I miss a shift or bog it down and I could have a bunch of fun.
 
i despise the burn out box at quaker... good times though.
Thanks. It doesn't matter where you do it with a line lock. Not enough water though.

Ahhh, good times. Makes me want to get out to the track again sometime. It's really a shame our local track shut down. I have to drive a bit further to Topeka now, and they are a bit more strict with tech.

What tires and tire pressure you running?

I have been tempted for a while to throw the nitrous setup from my 88 on the GT. The system is just sitting in the garage now. Add a window switch so I don't break anything *when* I miss a shift or bog it down and I could have a bunch of fun.
I have the Hoosier DOT drag radials. The ones with two lines of tread on them. I start around 15-16 and try to hit 18 psi or so when they are hot. They work great on most tracks.
 
Yikes, I would have thought the Hoosier DR would hook up better for you. I can't imagine trying to skate around on that new surface with a street tire if you were having trouble with the Hoosier.
 
You just need seat time. Those tires should g
i despise the burn out box at quaker... good times though.

I'm not sure if you were commenting on his lack of driver or track etiquette driving through the water with front radials like that, doing a burnout in entirely the wrong spot with radials, or just a track thing. If the former 2, I agree, lack of track experience, etc.

OP. there is always a bit of inside/outside area around the water box to drive around. While you might get 1 tire wet if the water box is wide, you minimize the damage(water drug) even crawling one tire through the edge of it. Back up the car once around the water back in the box, rev to 5k in the water in 1st gear and dump the clutch for a second. Pull up about 5-7feet, and do a full 2nd gear burnout on Hoosiers. You minimize the damage done to the track by ripping up prep/rubber, and will help keep the track in good condition. Fortunately, you had on Hoosiers, which are much softer than Nittos or BGF's, so on your launch, it's easier on the area between the start and 60-330ft.

Just an observation, you're way too quick on your clutch release. Seat time will be your key. Slip that clutch, and use it to takeoff. I think my best 60ft in my 1998 GT in high school in 2001 was a 1.74. I only managed a 13.1 on a liw 1.8 but I watched other guys at the track to get pointers on what they were doing. Good luck, and try to keep in mind other racers!
 
Yikes, I would have thought the Hoosier DR would hook up better for you. I can't imagine trying to skate around on that new surface with a street tire if you were having trouble with the Hoosier.
Yea. I wasn't the only one. The slick cars were spinning too. There is absolutely no tread on the ground, just some prep. They were going to have a burnout length contest before the racing, but ran out of time. They couldn't get the timing to work right.

You just need seat time. Those tires should g

I'm not sure if you were commenting on his lack of driver or track etiquette driving through the water with front radials like that, doing a burnout in entirely the wrong spot with radials, or just a track thing. If the former 2, I agree, lack of track experience, etc.

OP. there is always a bit of inside/outside area around the water box to drive around. While you might get 1 tire wet if the water box is wide, you minimize the damage(water drug) even crawling one tire through the edge of it. Back up the car once around the water back in the box, rev to 5k in the water in 1st gear and dump the clutch for a second. Pull up about 5-7feet, and do a full 2nd gear burnout on Hoosiers.

What? Haha. Have you not seen these tire before? They have about 30-40 passes on them. There is absolutely no tread on them. No reason to drive around the water box. Thanks for the info on how to do a burnout, but I know what I'm doing there.

I understand I can get a better launch with slipping the clutch out. That's not my plan. I know where to rev to and dump to get a little wheel spin, and that's what I shoot for. I've seen too many guys break their stock 28 spline by launching hard, and I need to drive my car home. With the line lock, I pre-load fairly hard to get the slack out of the drive line.
 
Yea. I wasn't the only one. The slick cars were spinning too. There is absolutely no tread on the ground, just some prep. They were going to have a burnout length contest before the racing, but ran out of time. They couldn't get the timing to work right.



What? Haha. Have you not seen these tire before? They have about 30-40 passes on them. There is absolutely no tread on them. No reason to drive around the water box. Thanks for the info on how to do a burnout, but I know what I'm doing there.

I understand I can get a better launch with slipping the clutch out. That's not my plan. I know where to rev to and dump to get a little wheel spin, and that's what I shoot for. I've seen too many guys break their stock 28 spline by launching hard, and I need to drive my car home. With the line lock, I pre-load fairly hard to get the slack out of the drive line.

Lol, I don't even know where to start with this reply.

Your front tires are the ones dragging water down the track, not your rears. If you did that in front of any of the guys I race with, we would be pissed.

If you know what your doing, it obviously doesn't show in your driving ability. And slipping the clutch puts less strain on drivetrain parts, not more. Clutch dumping is harder on parts and axles. I've broke plenty racing over the years. If you don't want help, then cool. Keep killing those 2.0 60fts.
 
Lol, I don't even know where to start with this reply.

Your front tires are the ones dragging water down the track, not your rears. If you did that in front of any of the guys I race with, we would be ****ed.

If you know what your doing, it obviously doesn't show in your driving ability. And slipping the clutch puts less strain on drivetrain parts, not more. Clutch dumping is harder on parts and axles. I've broke plenty racing over the years. If you don't want help, then cool. Keep killing those 2.0 60fts.
There isn't a single person there that drives around the water box, including slick cars. It's very difficult to do that there with the limited space. That's why they keep the water level low, and tend to spray down after you drive through. I've stood at the line and watched this specific thing and have never seen water tracks leading from the box.

Apparently you missed the several times I wrote, "they just paved the track almost to the eight mile." There's no traction there. Everyone was spinning off the line. Apparently you and all your friends have never raced on new pavement.

Dumping your clutch without preloading is what breaks things. It's the shock of the drive line plus a sudden hook.

I never asked for help, and I definitely didn't ask you to ride in here on your high horse and try to talk down to me. I understand there's plenty left in the car, and I'm ok with that. I also understand that if I keep pushing the car harder, something will eventually break, and I'm not ok with that. I understand what I'm doing and can do it consistently, which is all that matters with bracket racing:
IMAG0184_zps111b06cf-1_zps42c1b2c6.png
 
If spinning down the track like in your video works for you, so be it. I've done my share of racing in many cars from street, strip, to high speed runway racing. I hold the fastest 6 speed C6 1/4 record. I got there by taking criticism and advice over the years from people. Your track prep argument is only valid to a certain extent. I've dead hooked 850+whp/800wtq from a stop with go pro cameras to prove it with no track prep not on a track.

Good luck in the future.
 
If spinning down the track like in your video works for you, so be it. I've done my share of racing in many cars from street, strip, to high speed runway racing. I hold the fastest 6 speed C6 1/4 record. I got there by taking criticism and advice over the years from people. Your track prep argument is only valid to a certain extent. I've dead hooked 850+whp/800wtq from a stop with go pro cameras to prove it with no track prep not on a track.

Good luck in the future.
Good for you man. I'm only in my early 20's and have about 30-40 passes under my belt. I'm happy with where I'm at.

Guess I forgot to add to the first post the reason why this was my fastest pass with this car. The front calipers were sticking, and I never knew it. They weren't terrible, but the car wouldn't roll. Finally changed them and this was the result.

Wow. I haven't been on this site in a long time because of the way people talk/tread each other, and the moderators being ok with it. Also started becoming a large :poo: hole of terrible advice and information. It became an environment I didn't need to be a part of. I'm surprised you're not still trying to fight a stupid argument.

I know this is a Mustang site, but I'd love to see that video. Sounds like a bad ass car.
 
Try keeping the air pressure closer to recommended inflation (around 25-30psi). Drag radials don't like to be deflated like bias plys. They don't have a soft side wall to wrinkle like true "slicks", so all you end up doing with low tire pressure is creating drag while you're running down the track.