Aje Crossmember Problem

Jan 2, 2010
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just put in an AJE cross member and my rag joint come up about 3/4 to an inch short at the mounting bolt. original rag joint was not stressed, frame not bent. put original k-member back in, all seems normal, put AJE back in, still short. any ideas is this normal??
also noted was when I tried to fit the road racing braces in, the stock lower control arm bolts don't fit the braces, anyone else had these problems???
 
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I had the same issue, but it was more like an inch in my case. I've read since that the steering shaft is compressible, and it should extend out enough to still bolt right up. At the time, I welded and bolted on tubing to extend my steering shaft the inch or so mine was short. The maximum motorsports control arms I had bought did bolt right in. The AJE K member overall looked flimsy to me, my son welded on some additional bracing to it to help stiffen it up some. All those bolts and bushings that bolt the control arms to the K member are something else....
 
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coolamundo, I'll see if I can tap that steering column tube down a bit.
I actually bought the AJE road race brace kit because I thought the k/member looked like it couldn't take a lot of heavy abuse, it's a beautiful k-member, plenty of room to add a 4.6.
there are a lot of choices for k-members, I thought it was good value for money. did you have any issues with the rear mounting brackets?? I had to do a slight bit of grinding on mine to fit the back bolts.
 
For what its worth, i built a friend a 93 coupe with a 468bbc using an AJE k memeber and it holds the weight with no issues and sees alot of street time.
 
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I didn't have any issues with the bolts, though it took a while to get all those bushings in place for the control arms. The design seemed overly complicated compared to others; in the end I wished I had gone UPR. I didn't see the road race brace; I'll have to check into that! Take Care,
 
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thanks, for the info, I'm well pleased with my choice, however I'm not plugging any sales for AJE, some guys like Maximum Motorsports etc. this is my first aftermarket k-member installation, so when it's done, I can pass on the experience like you guys did. there's certainly a hell of a weight difference and sooo much room now. I'm going to fit the 97 L/C/A's to get the front track width out there, along with a MAC performance caster camber kit. it looks like I've got plenty of room for the tires.
again thanks for the info.
 
I just did this don't tap down on the wheel it will just compress more you have to take it apart and pull it and the mounting point back. If that makes sense
 
do you mean take the column apart and push the outer tube down. I don't mind, I just want to do it right. I see there is a "compression" point built into the outer tube, I was hoping to put a punch thru the bottom of the shaft and hit it with a hammer from inside the engine bay to pull the steering tube/shaft down some.
 
You don't have to take the column apart.

The shaft is designed to collapse into the column in a crash, so it telescopes. Spray a :poo:-ton of penetrating oil down the slot in the steering column inside the car right above where it passes through the firewall...
View attachment 128629

...and let it soak overnight. The next day take a roofing bar to the upper U-joint using the firewall as a fulcrum and without too much grunting or swearing you should be able to get it to move. You can see how far I drew mine out in this pic

View attachment 128630
 
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Yeah I did mine in a vice out of my car I mean its only three connectors and four bolts I found it easier that way but either way don't tap down on the steering wheel it don't work that way ... hope this helps ya out
 
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