Starter Removal PITA

[JordanB21]

So today, since my stang has been having trouble starting, I set out to remove the starter. And gave up after I got to that second high up bolt.

First off, let me say I've never thrown such a fit. I was literally throwing wrenches and because I couldn't get to it easy enough or get it to rotate out.

First I tried with a socket wrench, the head was too big.
I tried with an extension, I couldn't fit the body of the wrench in there.
I tried with a wrench but it hit the o2 sensor.
So I went to remove the o2 sensor and all I had was an adjustable wrench, perfect right? Well it was too big, at this point I just flung the wrench and said it.

How should I go about removing this damn upper bolt?
I can't imagine how much it's going to suck to put a starter back in.

Once more, I'm even more pissed off because my brother came back to visit from the navy, worked on his jeep, and then lost half of my tools in the process. NEVER let people borrow your tools. ever.


On another thought, while I was under there I noticed oil everywhere, all over the rack and pinion, oil pan, bell housing, everywhere was coated with oil. So I'm not too thrilled about that either. After I take of the starter tomorrow I'm going to do a good wiping down.

 

[revhead347]

You remove the bolt with a half inch wrench, or a half inch socket on a long extension. If it's pissing you off now you really aren't going to like removing the starter with long tubes.

Kurt

 

[JordanB21]

but...but..I want longtubes...

I think I was really just so pissed off because I couldn't find (still haven't found) half my tools, making it all the more difficult to try and do without the proper tools.

I have the perfect 1/2 wrench that is long enough to reach in there but it's missing.
socket was a close try but didn't work.
I might just go buy a long extension for how ever much and save me the headache.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

3ft extension over the k member.

 

[revhead347]

You can reach over from the backside of the bell housing over the top and get at that bolt with a half inch wrench. I scream bloody murder when I can't find my tools either.

Kurt

 

[ratio411]

I use the super-long extension from the front of the motor method to get the top bolt.
It's super easy...
Just put your extension in from the front of the engine, just behind the radiator support, and find the route back to line up directly on the starter bolt. Done this way, the top bolt is actually easier than the bottom bolt. You just have to find the perfect hole to line up with the bolt, and it might take one or two tries until you are familar with it. Route the extension beneath the block, above the k-member, and I can't explain which side of the engine mount, you'll see it.

 

[RIO5.0]

I use the super-long extension from the front of the motor method to get the top bolt.
It's super easy...
Just put your extension in from the front of the engine, just behind the radiator support, and find the route back to line up directly on the starter bolt. Done this way, the top bolt is actually easier than the bottom bolt. You just have to find the perfect hole to line up with the bolt, and it might take one or two tries until you are familar with it. Route the extension beneath the block, above the k-member, and I can't explain which side of the engine mount, you'll see it.

What he said.... def need like 2 ft worth of extensions to snake in there.

 

[Labora]

As mentioned longer extension the better, think that is bad try the 3 bolt starter some of the 4.6s had!

 

[JordanB21]

Well I got the starter out by the extensions and front of the engine method, replaced it, and now that was done. But then the car started to shake really bad out of no where, which turned out to be the harmonic balancer. I got that replaced by a semi-friend mechanic. So now the car wasn't shaking anymore and the idle smoothed out again.

But then while he was working on the car he pointed out my radiator was leaking, it must've been a new leak that started sometime while I was driving to his shop. So today I'm getting a new radiator and putting that in.

Maybe now the car will stop breaking?


It's a little irritating with how many repairs to this car have been made over the last year, adding up to nearly 3 grand in just repairs.

 

[Chythar]

Every Mustang I've owned goes through a phase where it seems like everything is breaking. Stick with it, this phase will pass and you'll have some repair-free months and years coming up.

 

[revhead347]

You have to except that it is an old car. Everything has pretty much over reached it's service life already.

Kurt

 

[jcgafford]

when i replaced mine it took some special sockets and going at it from the passenger front wheel well with the car jacked up and the tire removed. took maybe 20 minutes with the socket slipping off time after time.

 

[JordanB21]

Well as for the radiator, I put that in, new upper and lower hose, a few new clamps on some hoses that were missing, new radiator cap, thermostat housing (cracked the first one), thermostat and gasket of course.

While testing it for overheating, prior to finding out the fan wasn't spinning, on start up the low oil light came on, along with the e-brake light. I checked the oil and it was fine and the e-brake wasn't engaged at all. Not sure what t0 make of it, but on the third start up the lights went away.

I'd be driving it, but the fan isn't spinning again, which isn't a big deal since it's on a PWM versus the factory set up. So when I find the time (hopefully tuesday) I'm going to look over the wires and test for voltage and it should be good to go.





hypothetically.

 

[revhead347]

The brake light will come on if the brake reservoir is low on brake fluid.

Kurt

 

[Sn(95)]

When I pulled the starter I was planning on changing my throw out bearing so if you pull you exhaust off first its pretty easy. I just yanked it with a half inch drive and 2ft extension. Then the starter was pretty easy to pull after that. But I do have mid length headers don't know if it will be that easy if you have Long Tubes