Terminator Question

BrianRClone

New Member
Aug 26, 2013
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I just found a really good deal on a 03 Cobra 10th Anniversary Edition. Whats the limit on the stock rods and pistons. I was going to make a 1000 hp Cobra R look alike. I have decided to move in a differnt direction in light of the new circumstances. The car has 80,000 some miles on it. I planed on breaking down the motor replacing the rod bearings, add the Arora 2000 Rod Bolts, maybe replace the rings or get new manley pistons with that black coating stuff that helps with friction I forget what its called. After the engine refresh I was going to throw the 2.8LC Mammoth from KenneBell on her, crank the boost up, beef up the fuel system, a good tune, MAF and have a 774 RWHP daily driver. Of course as time goes on their will be more goodies... Is there anything I should consider before I get into this build.
 
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700 is the typical number on stock pistons. Some hold more, some hold less. They will also spin bearings at high HP if you're not very cautious. If it's much over 750 rwhp and is driven hard much, it's only a matter of time.

As mentioned, you'd better have the pocketbook right. 1000 rwhp is going to take a LOT of money to do right. Between built bottom end, good flowing top end, good power adder, fuel system, complete drivetrain, suspension, tires, etc, you're talking north of 15 grand. I don't believe a 2.8 is going to get it there. You definitely won't do it on pump gas.
 
I been checking into compound boost more and more the past couple of days. I also have build the bottom end using the MMR 4.75 Stroker Race Mod 1500 Rotating assembly. Heads Im going to send them off get them worked on. As I mentioned the Hellion Compound boost seems to be the way to go.
 
Tests I've seen showed compound boost systems are less efficient than normal forced induction systems. Size it right and you can achieve your objectives without the addedd complexity, heat, cost, and loss of efficiency. Whipple 3.4, or 80+mm turbo. Some 76mm turbos would also get you there.
 
Tests I've seen showed compound boost systems are less efficient than normal forced induction systems. Size it right and you can achieve your objectives without the addedd complexity, heat, cost, and loss of efficiency. Whipple 3.4, or 80+mm turbo. Some 76mm turbos would also get you there.

You are 100% right...BUT...

I still haven't seen one done the way I want to one day. Everyone who does compound boost always pulley's the Eaton way up, like 14+ pounds of boost. Well, it's already out of its efficiency range then anyway, even without the turbo(s), and of course the IATs are going to be high; the A2W intercooler can barely handle the blower. I want to see one done where they fully port the blower, put the stock pulley back on (8 pounds of boost max), and then throw a turbo on. Using a ported blower and not spinning it outside its efficiency range would certainly keep the temperatures down to at least a more reasonable level. Now, could you take the blower off, run the same total boost just on the turbo, and make more power? I have no doubt you would, but I don't think it'd be nearly as much as it is on the tests that you and I have seen in the past. Plus, that low end, roots-blower torque (from the 8 pounds of boost) is the reason why most people like these cars anyway.

I also want to see one done with a proper water/meth setup. People have (and continue to) tell me that there's no way my non-intercooled M112 can make any significant power. Well, when you hit it with enough water/meth to cool it down (it takes a LOT), the thing will make power. And the tuning is fairly simple, too. I'd like to see the same water/meth and tuning principles done on a high boost, high horsepower compound boost setup. I think it could probably make 900+ on pump gas, and definitely make that much on E85.