Engine Engine Mount Alignment Question

[cjcoburn]

So.....after pulling the engine and tranny for some work, which included replacing beat engine mounts, I just got it all back together. Tonight I just noticed that the driver's side engine mount stud is not sitting in the same place it was before I did this work.

The questions I have are -

1. How bad is this?
2. Should I try to adjust it.
3. What would be the best way to adjust it?

I'm thinking I could remove the big engine mount nuts (both sides), disconnect a few things from the engine (CAI), unbolt the tranny from it's mount, and then using some pieces of 2x4 on the lip of the oil pan with a floor jack try adjusting how the engine is sitting.

So what are the thoughts out there about all of this?

As always, I look forward to your help.

 

[Rick 91GT]

What year car is this in? You can also see the alignment nub is not in the hole below the stud.

You have alignment nubs on both sides that should be in the corresponding slots.

A large pry bar can be used to help manipulate the mounts in place.

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[cjcoburn]

What year car is this in? You can also see the alignment nub is not in the hole below the stud.

You have alignment nubs on both sides that should be in the corresponding slots.

A large pry bar can be used to help manipulate the mounts in place.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

The car is a 1999 GT 5-speed. Sorry I forgot to mention that - thought it was in my signature. Anyhow, I see what you mean about the alignment nubs, too. Thanks!

 

[cjcoburn]

I've had guys in other forums suggest that if nothing is rubbing or binding to just leave the mount the way it is.

What are thoughts on that? I prefer to fix it but I was just curious.

 

[wmburns]

Just wondering. Why did Ford put the alignment nubs on the mount in the first place? Do you think it was for no reason at all?

Your motor is turned in the K-member. It's not hard to fix. The worst part of the job is loosing the bolts.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Yeah the motor needs to be straightened out...

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[cjcoburn]

Just wondering. Why did Ford put the alignment nubs on the mount in the first place? Do you think it was for no reason at all?

Your motor is turned in the K-member. It's not hard to fix. The worst part of the job is loosing the bolts.

Well that's a strange question...the alignment nubs are there for a reason.

Anyhow, I'm glad that you said loosening the bolts is the worst part of the job. I was thinking adjusting the engine was going to be. Cool to read it won't be that hard a fix.

Thanks!

 

[cjcoburn]

Well, the engine mounts are aligned now. I can't believe how easy it was. I just -

1. Got the car on 4 jack stands.
2. Loosened the transmission mount quite a bit.
3. Removed the big honkin' engine mount nuts.
   1. I know that compared to a semi these aren't big honkin' nuts
4. Using a piece of wood as a pad, used the floor jack to raise the engine at the passenger side front corner of the oil pan lip.

When I did that the driver's side engine mount just dropped right into place. Yeah...so I was laying under the car cheering. So both alignment nibs are in the exact place place on each side.

Unfortunately, I'll have to wait until I put in the lowering springs before I can tighten the driver's side nut to spec. With the mount in the correct place now I can't get a torque wrench on it...or any real wrench, for that matter.

So thanks again for your suggestions and encouragement. It's really appreciated.

 

[wmburns]

Well that's a strange question...the alignment nubs are there for a reason.

I was trying to use sarcasm to make a point.

I was able to torque the motor mount bolts using a regular torque wrench with an extension socket. The only parts removed were the wheels. Granted that only a few clicks of arc were possible but it was enough to get the job done. Certainly less work than removing any suspension parts.

 

[cjcoburn]

I was able to torque the motor mount bolts using a regular torque wrench with an extension socket. The only parts removed were the wheels. Granted that only a few clicks of arc were possible but it was enough to get the job done. Certainly less work than removing any suspension parts.

That's how it went for me on the passenger's side. I'd expect both sides to be the same. Maybe I've got a problem with my front end (K-member, lower control arms, etc.).

As for removing suspension parts, I'm only considering that route on account of putting in lower springs and new struts.