Advice Or Ideas On Next Step With A Dd

[FastDriver]

On the hwy, those 3.55's are darn close to 2400rpm around 70mph, that 5% would put it overboard for me on the hwy, 2500+ Plus rpms would suck b@lls, people who do hwy driving KNOW what i'm saying

I do 3-4 hour drives every weekend on the AUTOBAHN!!! 2500RPM is nothin'! I like to cruise at 120 which is a comfortable 2600RPM in the Corvette (gotta love .5:1 6th gear w/ 3.42 rears), but nearly flat out in the 318i at about 5500-6000RPM. Takes it like a champ. I've put over 120k km on my 318 in the 3.5 years I've been doing this.

ps. by the way, if I'm right about the tire you're running, your tach is off - kinda normal if you're running a stocker. 25.6" OD tire with a .675:1 5th gear, and 3.55:1 rear end should be doing right at 2200 rpm at 70mph. A 25.6" OD tire would be consistent with a 225/60/15, a 245/50/16, or a 275/40/17. It would take a VERY small 23.5" tire for that gearing to get up to 2400 RPM.

I guess my reference point was my '03 GT. It had 3.27s and I loved them. Different power and and engine rpm limit of course, but being at 80mPH at 3k rpm in 4th was perfect for rolling on the throttle and zipping along. You could then ride that gear to 100MPh at the track. If I needed to cruise, 5th gear was just over 2k rpm.

With my 3.73s, It just feels like too much

Persona opinion of course

Honestly, I probably wouldn't do it in a daily driver, anymore. I've grown too used to lugging along where the engine is barely audible and getting 30+ mpg. It's pretty nice. It's what has me really wanting a .5:1 OD. Then I can keep the gears and have my fuel mileage, too.

Here's kind of a cool fact I just uncovered. The final drive ratio of a 2.73 rear with a T5 (.675:1 OD) is almost identical to a 3.73 with a T56 (.5:1 OD).

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

I have 16 inch wheels with 3 chamber flowmasters, could not imagine louder mufflers or more gear doing 2500rpms plus.

 

[FastDriver]

I sympathize. I've got dynomax race magnums on the mustang.... even with a turbo, it's ear-crushingly loud. I'm going to work to quiet everything down on the car.

 

[Gearhead92]

I just want some extra kick, so I figured since my rear end could use a rebuild throw some gears in. So I'll probably go with 3.55s. Later on if I want a little more I'll go to 3.73s.

It is a DD and will be for at least the next two years, maybe three. All depends on where I land outta undergrad. Then I'll be looking for a different DD and keep my Fox for my fun car.

Within the next 2 years, I plan to buy a used 302 and T5, and completely rebuild them. Then drop them in when finished. This way I still have a DD, while working on the engine and trans.

 

[Mustang5L5]

That was my plan too.....8 years ago.

 

[Gearhead92]

HA. Well, I will learn from your experience, and will hopefully complete that plan. As soon as I get the motor and trans, it should be a good start

 

[Gearhead92]

I got the intake. Pressure washed it. I had to get all that awkward grey paint off of it.

I'd like to polish it somehow, the it is a pretty rough surface to polish. I'd rather not paint it, but if that is my only option then sure.

Suggestions?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Polishing is a lot of work and requires upkeep.

Painting is just easier

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/painting-upper-intake-and-valve-covers.819809/

 

[Gearhead92]

Thanks. Those intakes are gorgeous. I'm going to do something similar.

 

[mikestang63]

I have been polishing parts for over 20 years. It takes me at least 10-12 hours to polish an upper intake, the lowers longer. Not an easy task. You can chrome powerdercoat it or get some Eastwood Alumiflash paint.

 

[Gearhead92]

After looking at the painted ones....I've convinced myself to paint them instead. But thanks

 

[Cherilyn]

hi guys i got a 2006 myself

 

[Mustang5L5]

Hi


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk

 

[Gearhead92]

just saw the pic. Looks like the #5 runner is tapped. There are no coolant lines and I can't see the rear passenger of the intake so I assume it is not tapped. Your call- either drill and tap the boss back there for your existing hard lines or if you don't have heat just screw in the temp sensor into the opening in the front- looks like that is what he did but pic is fuzzy.

it has stock injectors

that thing looks awful carboned up. I would at a minimum break it down and soak it overnight in some seafoam or better yet buy the bucket of parts cleaner or have a machine shop hot tank it. Same for the TB and EGR, give them a good cleaning . Replace all the gaskets- intake, TB, EGR,. You'll need to swap over your IAC and TPS, and I would replace the FPR while it is off- cheap insurance.. IF not running the coolant lines. cap off the two lines on the EGR. Finally, you'll need to address the vacuum line routing fir the FPR, cannister, A/C, etc. coming off the upper- again buy 10 feet of new hose as cheap insurance..

Jrichker has a good tech article on the explorer install that is very comprehensive.

Well now that I have cleaned the intake upper, lower, and TB very well. Removed all old paint and such. Then I primed and painted them....attached are the pictures.

I took everything apart....currently, my car is sitting with the top half off. I'm a bit confused on how the coolant running works.

So I will be looking into "Jrichker", not sure i that is a person, or post or what, but I'll look. Anyhow, I have these questions about the GT40.

Reading my Chilton's manual, it says to use RTV sealant on the lower manifold-to-block/heads gaskets....I have been recommended to do so..unless I'm in a hurry...RTV is a must yes?
I'm also replacing my water pump with a Ford Racing high flow since I had it, and Chilton suggests using water resistant sealant on that gasket. Also a must?

My fuel injectors have cracks in the bottom dome/port (? not sure what to call it). 3 of the 8 are fine with no cracks, 3 of the 8 have cracks at the base, and the other 2 have cracks all over the bottom and top of the dome. I believe this bad, bad enough to not put them in and get new ones. I'll looked for used ones on CL, since I can't afford a new set. Plus I have heard higher rated injectors don't do much if I have the stock (E7?) heads. Does this all sound correct?

To the intake:

There is a hole on the very back of the lower manifold, the stock had some sort of filter thing? A lot of metal and such inside, with a rubber insert on top...I have no idea what this is...Answer?

There are the two ports on the back on the lower manifold, that had coolant lines going to them, one from the EGR...and I don't remember where the second goes....I believe this is what you (mikestang63), were mentioning?
I do have heat....so do I need those lines for heat? Those two ports are not on the back of the GT40.....How to fix?

I've heard that you don't need to run coolant to the EGR...I have been told of issues where coolant leaks somehow from the EGR into the lower and then somehow into the engine, mixes with oil...bad. Again, all what I've heard, and I have no idea if this is true or possible.

Are there any other issues with coolant routing?

I'm still waiting to start putting it back together until I get this figured out, get new valve covers, and injectors.....I love cars

 

[Dugl]

So from that reasoning...the manual is more efficient in transferring the power...so you'll get more out a manual with 3.55s than a AOD with 3.55s.....but the same would go with 3.73s?

Am I right?

My 2cents.....asI posted elsewhere, my gearing went from 4.10 to 4.30 because I switched from 235x55x17 to 275x40x17 tires.

 

[Gearhead92]

Thanls for your input.

I forgot to attach the pictures of the painted intake. I also painted the throttle body, and thermostat housing. And I'm putting on a new high flow FR water pump

 

[mikestang63]

Thanls for your input.

I forgot to attach the pictures of the painted intake. I also painted the throttle body, and thermostat housing. And I'm putting on a new high flow FR water pump

You can grind down that cable bung on the upper manifold so it's flush, as that isn't needed an makes a cleaner look. Take a look at the pic of mine in my sig.....

 

[MikeH686]

Man wish i saw this earlier i wouldve showed you my intake its hydrodipped which holds up really well.

 

[Gearhead92]

Well there is always a next time.

Anyone have answer for my questions?

 

[Gearhead92]

I believe I found some answers.

I am getting the sealers, they are cheap and needed.

I believe the hole in the back of the intake is the PCV valve? For that I need a new grommet? (Looks like a filter) and a little valve goes inside? Then that line goes to the upper intake? So whatever is sucked in can be burned? That's my understanding of the PCV valve system...

The two coolant lines on the back of the stock intake I believe one came from the EGR and them through the lower and then into the upper? Correct?
Since the EGR will not have coolant going to it, I can not worry about those correct? I know where the heater core lines go and come from. That isn't an issue anymore.