I understand what you are saying John D, I too bought an "orphan" that needed lots of work. I have probably spent about 8k in making it what I want. I didn't care about having a low mileage car and my goal was similar to this guys. I think my turn out worked out well for me. He has a vision and his goal can be obtained.
Buying My First 88' Lx 5.0
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Case settled then. I guess myself and the others had not realized you were already committed.
As far as mechanical goes, your general inquiry is vague. For us to any good from our remote locations, more specific info about particulars is usually needed. With you being far from the car, those specifics are not likely at hand. Lots of things could need attention. Starting system, charging system, engine cooling, brakes, engine management, suspension...the list goes on.
When you get back and get it going, let us know what's going on. I'm sure we can help you work through whatever it needs.
As far as mechanical goes, your general inquiry is vague. For us to any good from our remote locations, more specific info about particulars is usually needed. With you being far from the car, those specifics are not likely at hand. Lots of things could need attention. Starting system, charging system, engine cooling, brakes, engine management, suspension...the list goes on.
When you get back and get it going, let us know what's going on. I'm sure we can help you work through whatever it needs.
Sorry for being a little short on that last one guess i mislead you guys a bit in the initial introduction. I'll have more particulars before i get back because my friend whose working on it between now and then will update me to anything he finds that needs more work or anything that was upgraded that we didn't notice before. Scaringly the car is being painted almost the same dark metallic blue as elarm1 beauty is, i think mine is just going to be a bit darker. Performance wise the car is completely stock as far as we know except for this: Headers (brand unknown), Flowmaster exhaust, swapped to a T-5 tranismission from an automatic, along with a brand new clutch. Other than that the car seems to be what came out of the factory. Since the car can exhale now i was thinking the other half of breathing needed to be taken care of but unsure of what to go for and or with, what works best with this engine as far as intake and throttle bodies go?
Looks like you're on the same path as me as far as performance mods are concerned. If you're on a budget, read through this thread. Some good options discussed here.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/maf-and-tb-questions.870307/
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/maf-and-tb-questions.870307/
#1 put some better heads on(either the "budget" gt40s or aftermarket alum)
#2 aftermarket cam(either a good OTS or custom grind) stay away from the ford alphabet cams
#3 good intake manifold(any of the aftermarket ones are ok some are just better than the others. I like the Holley systeMax or TFS intakes. You'll also need a better MAF/tb maybe bigger injectors and most importantly a well running engine in the first place ie no codes/good ign/proper oil press etc
#4 rearend gear change(I like 3.73 or 3.55) these probably should be #1. This mod will really wake up any stock 5.0
These are all the basic h/c/i - rear gear changes that everybody does to wake up our stangs
#2 aftermarket cam(either a good OTS or custom grind) stay away from the ford alphabet cams
#3 good intake manifold(any of the aftermarket ones are ok some are just better than the others. I like the Holley systeMax or TFS intakes. You'll also need a better MAF/tb maybe bigger injectors and most importantly a well running engine in the first place ie no codes/good ign/proper oil press etc
#4 rearend gear change(I like 3.73 or 3.55) these probably should be #1. This mod will really wake up any stock 5.0
These are all the basic h/c/i - rear gear changes that everybody does to wake up our stangs
Yeah after i did some reading over that article that john posted and a little more research i determined that after gearing (going with 3.73's) im going to have to open up the whole top end to allow it the breathe better since the exhaust side of the house is already taken care of.
Why do you say stay away from the ford alphabet cams? curious.
I was thinking either Holley or Edelbrock for the intake, possibly Edelbrock for the heads as well(that might take some extra putting away though since i'm really liking the performer heads they have out versus the e street).
The car runs great for an old car that wasn't under the best of care if it wasn't for the interior not fully being together my friend would've driven it to his house. Nevertheless i still am going the basics upgrade all the wiring, fluids, distro cap and rotor, etc. just so i know that its reliable and can set myself up for more parts down the road.
The alphabet cams designs are outdated. There are better cam manufacturers like comp cams or better yet get a custom grind. It only costs a little more for a custom. IMO edelbrock heads are ok but tfs and Afr heads are better. The estreets need a spring change right out of the box. They are junk and not designed for a roller cam
The eddy heads are a great entry level aluminum head. The tfs heads will offer more room to grow and provide overall better flow. The old alphabet cams are "ok" but the newer split duration cams offer better performance at the same price. Overall the trick flow top end kit is the best bang for the buck and the quickest way to reach300 streetable hp.
This is all great information guys thank you so much, a catalog will only tell you why you should buy it but not what i'll get/ go through once i get it, exactly the advice i've been looking. Now you mentioned the trick flow top end kit but i had a hard time finding it for the 302, is it listed under another motor and it just so happens to be compatible with the 302 o am i just blind?
http://treperformance.com/i-90332-t...-wedge-top-end-engine-kits-for-ford-5-0l.html
Here is the kit. Rick at RNH Performance could likely cut you a better deal when you are ready to buy. Goes by @rick91gt here.
Here is the kit. Rick at RNH Performance could likely cut you a better deal when you are ready to buy. Goes by @rick91gt here.
Thanks a bunch, thats perfect for what im looking to be at and get into with the car.
Probably obvious answer but im assuming the kit is cheaper even if just a little bit than buying out the parts seperately?
Also would i need to buy new cylinders with this kit, i saw some of TF cylinder head requires it because of valve clearance or something like that?
I'll definitely look him up soon that way it's not a hey i just met you, can i get a discount haha.
Probably obvious answer but im assuming the kit is cheaper even if just a little bit than buying out the parts seperately?
Also would i need to buy new cylinders with this kit, i saw some of TF cylinder head requires it because of valve clearance or something like that?
I'll definitely look him up soon that way it's not a hey i just met you, can i get a discount haha.
talk to Rick. He is a huge vendor here and he can/will make a custom combo for you. Whether you use these parts or not he knows ford pushrod engines like the back of his hand and he will have everything you need. The only guess work is how many boxes it will take to ship everything to your house back home. Everything will be bolt and go after that assuming your shortblock is still in good shape.
betke76
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I just talked to my buddy whose got the car, he said there's more body pieces with it that are just not on it. If it's close tobeing a gt than stock I'll get what ever is missing and do that, if not its back to lx. As long as it's a clean looking car at the end im non preferred to either look
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