Maf Conversion Confusion, Please Help

Ok I got you. So just to be safe about everything im just gonna use a manual trans, manual o2 harness, and A9L comp. Id prefer as less of a head ache as I can. Also in one of my earlier posts, can I just go to Autozone and buy a EEC from there for an '89?
Yes, that's where I got one of my A9L's. You will need any EEC-IV core for the exchange. They don't have them in stock, but can get one in a few days. They are all rebuilt by Carbone, no matter who you get it from. I've got a new one in the exchange box, which they forgot to keep. I gave them the exchange when I placed the order. The exchange used to be worth $20.
 
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Yes, that's where I got one of my A9L's. You will need any EEC-IV core for the exchange. They don't have them in stock, but can get one in a few days. They are all rebuilt by Carbone, no matter who you get it from. I've got a new one in the exchange box, which they forgot to keep. I gave them the exchange when I placed the order. The exchange used to be worth $20.
Yeah that's who it said rebuilt them. And now the exchange is like $45 but im just gonna play it safe and keep my SD EEC just invade something doesn't work...I know for sure I can revert back to that. Last and easiest option would be to go carb, but that's what everyone in my area does. I'm trying to be different and keep the injection. I know this question has probably been asked before...but how much of an engine modification will the new '89 EEC that I get adapt to before having to tune it? Example like cam, heads, throttle body. Stuff like that.
 
Sorry, you're wrong. Look at my drawing for '88, there's only 4-pins on the MAF. Fox body used 4-pin MAFS '88-'93.

Sorry, youre the one thats wrong. The 88 mass air sensor itself may only use 4 pins. But the connector is 5 pin. Which is what he was asking about, and what I commented on. The 88 Mass Air Connector is below.
maf-connector1989_large.jpe
 
Sorry, you're wrong. Look at my drawing for '88, there's only 4-pins on the MAF. Fox body used 4-pin MAFS '88-'93.
Hey Blown, the diagram is only gonna show the wires that's used, not the connector itself. I checked my wires and the colors don't match up to your schematic, the color wires that I have are Tan/Org, Blu/Yel, Red, Blk. Your pic shows DrkBwn/Org, Tan/LtBlu, Red, Blk. No disrespect, I appreciate all your help, but im gonna have to side with lilJoe on this one as far as the harness year goes. Like I said I appreciate your help with everything though.
 
Aslong as it'll work with a MAF EEC I dont really care what its to be honest lol. The pins match up to the spots they're suppose to be in on the EEC connector so I'm just happy I dont have to buy a harness or cut and splice everything. Its already beeb done for me.
 
If I may offer an opinion.. Instead of doing the mass air conversion, why not spend that money on a tuneable chip instead? I mean, I still can't use mine worth a crap, but I'm glad I bought it as now I can see what it's doing (once again, have no idea what I'm looking at, but the ABILITY is there..). QH and what not work with the DA1 correct? Since i bought this QH, kind of wishing I didn't go through the trouble of a MAF if I could have just had the ability to tune it anyways!
 
If I may offer an opinion.. Instead of doing the mass air conversion, why not spend that money on a tuneable chip instead? I mean, I still can't use mine worth a crap, but I'm glad I bought it as now I can see what it's doing (once again, have no idea what I'm looking at, but the ABILITY is there..). QH and what not work with the DA1 correct? Since i bought this QH, kind of wishing I didn't go through the trouble of a MAF if I could have just had the ability to tune it anyways!
Any Opinion is good. Ive already bought a Tweecer (similar tor your QH) and love the though of it with my DA1. The problem is like you said, I dont know what Im doing at all when it comes to setting up the VE Tables (and a few other tables). Thats the table that controls the Air/Fuel Mixture if I remember right. The only extra money im really gonna be putting in to it would be for the computer itself. I can get it from AutoZone through a friend for about $110 bucks with no core. I already have a harness with everything I need to pretty much just be plug n play. Plus the Tweecer Chip I have will work with the new EEC I get as well. It should be easier to tune because it is MAF. Thanks for the input.
 
http://www.foureyedpride.com/vb/album.php?albumid=1526&pictureid=11821
4 wires

'86-'93 had ACT sensor on top of lower intake
When it was moved to the air box, connector went to 6 wires.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/act-sensor-location-90-vs-95.798079/
Im curious about your post...Is the intentions of it about the " T " connector for the new Maf sensor or about the ACT sensor location. My car is an '87, ive determined that the wiring harness is an '89. I know I previously thought it was an '88 but I was wrong on that. The harness I have now already has a Maf wiring harness built into it. Every pin that I would of had to move around or add with an original '87 harness, are already in their respective places. The EEC Im going to use is going to be from an '89 as well.

The ACT link you posted was about the guy using a 1995 Mustang GT with a 1990 A9L EEC. His problem was that on the '95 he had, the ACT sensor was in the intake tubing before the throttle body and after the Maf sensor. It wouldnt work right with the A9L in that location. I double checked to be on the safe side and went to look at my car. The reason I did that is because I have an Aftermarket BBK Upper and Lower intake. Wanted to make sure that when I did the intake swap that there was actually a place for the ACT and I just didnt leave it off. The ACT sensor was right were it is suppose to be on the lower intake on the driver side.
 
Im curious about your post...Is the intentions of it about the " T " connector for the new Maf sensor or about the ACT sensor location. My car is an '87, ive determined that the wiring harness is an '89. I know I previously thought it was an '88 but I was wrong on that. The harness I have now already has a Maf wiring harness built into it. Every pin that I would of had to move around or add with an original '87 harness, are already in their respective places. The EEC Im going to use is going to be from an '89 as well.

The ACT link you posted was about the guy using a 1995 Mustang GT with a 1990 A9L EEC. His problem was that on the '95 he had, the ACT sensor was in the intake tubing before the throttle body and after the Maf sensor. It wouldnt work right with the A9L in that location. I double checked to be on the safe side and went to look at my car. The reason I did that is because I have an Aftermarket BBK Upper and Lower intake. Wanted to make sure that when I did the intake swap that there was actually a place for the ACT and I just didnt leave it off. The ACT sensor was right were it is suppose to be on the lower intake on the driver side.
I'm the original owner of my '88, so I know it didn't come with any mods. I bought all the manuals within the first few months, the EVTM being the one I use the most. The first mod I did was change the speedometer from 85mph to 140mph, with less than 1000 miles on the car. A couple years later came the conversion kit, because the damn car would never idle right. There were no other options back then, it was Ford or nothing. The kit was in the car until last year when it was removed & sold.
The EEC from this kit was used on no other. I think some functions were disabled so it wouldn't throw any bad codes at the dealership or the test light. '87's & '88's don't have a check engine light. Home code readers didn't arrive until 20 years later. The T-connector as you called it, added the 4 wires for the MAF, & had traces inside that remapped some pins to others. Other than Cali cars, '87's are identical to '88. The '89's added the MAF for all 50 states.

SN95's ('94-'95) are transition 5.0's, many things are the same, some are different. They also started changing things on the Explorer, the MAFs have a flange, but are still 4-wires. As for the ACT, the extra wires in the MAF connector are only for that. If your ACT is in the lower intake, your original MAF connector would only have 4-wires. I've spent a lot of time in junkyards over the past couple years, looking for parts. We made a Fox MAF by machining off the flange on the CNC. The hot wire sensors are all the same. I've got a couple spare MAFs & ECU, am selling some soon since I don't need all these spares. AZ for $110 with no core is good, I was going to sell my unused one for $120 shipped because Advance gave me the box for the core exhange by mistake. I think cores are going for $40, JY ones cost about $15. $25 profit for buyer. They can turn any EEC-IV to an A9L by changing the PROM. It's soldered in, so not easy to do for the average guy. I still have the original SD EEC, DA1, same as yours. Do you know any model number can be used for the exchange, doesn't have to be A9L for A9L?

It's still a point of contention as to where the ACT should really be located. It really depends on the EEC you use. The A9L is setup for ACT in the intake manifold. I only posted the link to show that the wires from the ACT don't go to the MAF connector.

Because of these subtle differences, the aftermarket suppliers sometimes get very confused & label their inventory wrong. A 6-pin Ford plug won't insert into a 4-pin MAF & vice versa. The actual pins are a different size, 6-pin are a bit narrower than the 4-pin. The connector shell size might be the same. I never actually tried it, when there are so many of the 4-pins to be had.

That sounds right about your having an '89 harness or more likely, a previous owner modified the '87, like I did my '88 last year. A couple years after I installed the Ford kit, they figured out what was inside the EEC & how to do it with only a conversion harness. I'm sure Ford wouldn't even allow their supplier to sell the connectors to anyone else. When vehicles started showing up in junkyards, they could no longer stop it. Aftermarket MAF's & chips started showing up about the same time, around 1992.

Found an online version: http://www.coolcats.net/modifying/massair.html
The entire 1988 EVTM is online on my website. Your '87 should be identical right down to the wire colors.
1988 EVTM
 
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I get what what your saying. When I get a chance I'll take some pics of the harness. The reason I say it was fully replaced and not modified is because I dont see any cut or splicing of wires. Every wire that goes to the EEC is the color it is suppose to be. The MAF connector I have it the oval shaped 4 pin. I think we're on the same page. But the only thing I have to do is get an EEC and try it out. I know there's a few other things I'll need to do. I need to get a 70mm Maf sensor, readjust my tps sensor, readjust my IAC, and adjust my timing. I'm not to sure what timing I'm gonna need since I'm not using the stick cam anymore. I'll figure that out when I get there though. I'll check out those links you posted up and search for that mustang you mentioned as well.
 
I get what what your saying. When I get a chance I'll take some pics of the harness. The reason I say it was fully replaced and not modified is because I dont see any cut or splicing of wires. Every wire that goes to the EEC is the color it is suppose to be. The MAF connector I have it the oval shaped 4 pin. I think we're on the same page. But the only thing I have to do is get an EEC and try it out. I know there's a few other things I'll need to do. I need to get a 70mm Maf sensor, readjust my tps sensor, readjust my IAC, and adjust my timing. I'm not to sure what timing I'm gonna need since I'm not using the stick cam anymore. I'll figure that out when I get there though. I'll check out those links you posted up and search for that mustang you mentioned as well.
If there is a splice, you might never see it, depending where the splice was made. They are only necessary if you have a code reader which will show a problem doesn't exist. I only got the code reader a couple years ago. The "bad codes" could have been there for 20 years. IIRC, the Ford OBD-I reader was $25 + $25 for the extension cable.
View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oeuAgCgVdM
 
Ok man im gonna be honest...what have you been trying to inform me about this whole time. Maybe im just reading things wrong. First you said I didnt have an '88 harness, which you were right, I really didnt. I said after the info I received and some more researching I have an '89 harness. You tried saying that I didnt have a '89 either. Then you started telling me about some kit that you bought from Ford that came with a MAF Connector. I then again tell you that I dont need that setup because I have an '89 harness and nothing was spliced into it. You then tried telling me that more than likely someone did splice connection into the orginal harness. The reason I know my harness isnt from an '87, early '88, or Cali '88 is because the '87 and early '88 came with a 5 pin connector from the main harness to the o2 harness. The '89 main harness came with an 8 pin connector to the o2 harness. The Cali '88 came with a rectangle MAF connector instead of the oval connector like on the '89. My car has the oval connector. Your now trying to tell me that I need a code reader for the sake that there might be codes that i dont know about. I dont need a code reader. Ive been knowing for some years now that you can check the codes with a test light. Ill post up a link for you to check out. Like I said, I honestly dont know what you have been trying to "teach" me or inform me about. I guess the Mustang that is sitting in MY drive way isnt mine, it must be yours since you "know" so much more about the car that I have in my name and possession than I do. I appreciate your help on the topic ive asked about, but now you seem to be veering off the main question from what I asked. I kind of see why lilJoe07 quit responding to you.

Anyway heres the link. Dont tell me that you need a CEL because you dont. Pre '91 used a 2 digit pattern which you can read with a test light or multimeter. The post '91 will use the check engine light to read the 3 digit codes.
 
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