Fox Picking An Engine
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Duc_Stang_95
Member
Just FYI, I'm probably going to have around $17k in my N/A 331 by the time all's said and done. Things like rear axles, chassis mods, and transmissions all add up quick; you can't just throw in a beastly motor and say good enough... not if you want to do it right, anyway.
The only way I'm justifying all the cost is by reminding myself that a 2014 costs upwards of $35k.
The only way I'm justifying all the cost is by reminding myself that a 2014 costs upwards of $35k.
Duc_Stang_95
Member
Maybe so, but in all fairness that $17k factors in much more than just a motor. It includes $2500 worth of paint and body work, new headlights and tail lights, another $1000 in the rear end once you count new control arms and all the other goodies, full Flowmaster exhaust, a $950 Eibach Pro suspension plus install costs, new MM steering shaft, subframe connectors, all new poly bushings, Baer big brake kit for the front, line lock, wheels and spacers, shifter, plus transmission. I'm still not done btw; that $17k is just an estimate (but a pretty accurate one IMO)...
My car was originally a v6 that needed a lot of cosmetic work. I'm sure I could have started with a GT that didn't need paint, used the stock rear end, skipped out on the 331 kit, and just gone with HCI and a better transmission for a whole lot cheaper.
My point to the OP was that there's a whole lot more to it than just the engine. In fact I'd rather have a bone stock GT engine in a properly built chassis than a highly modded motor in a weak, crappy-handling stock chassis. If that makes sense.
agreed fully, but also think of what built fox you could buy for that 17k! Not dissing you or your car in any way, btw
Duc_Stang_95
Member
Yup, definitely true. It wouldn't be the car I've had since I was 16 though.
The thing about built cars is that someone has to do the building... and that person always loses lots of money if and when he sells it.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
It's always cheaper to buy a built car than build one yourself, as you are lucky to recoup 50% of what you spent. Isn't that part of the fun- building it? The problem is every time I buy one of these cars I say, " I'm keeping this one stock." That last's maybe two days and then it's open the checkbook time.
I see on Ebay all the time cars that have made the magazines, where the seller cant get 1/2 what they put into them. I guess it is easier to justify spending the money piecemeal rather than writing the big check upfront.
I bet I've spent $40k on my car since I bought it. There's no logic in a car hobby. Don't try and apply investment logic to rationalize your hobby. I wouldn't matter how much cheaper it would be to buy an Sn197 car. They are ugly and I don't like them. It would be money flushed down the toilet, because I wouldn't enjoy driving it.
Kurt
Kurt
The day I add up all the receipts from my build to send to the insurance company for the declared value is the night I drink myself to sleep. However, there is a pride than comes from building a car that you can never get from driving around in one that you simply wrote a check for.
4k is nowhere even in the ballpark to build anything.
You may have most of that 4k invested if you added a trick flow top end alone if you include the meter, injectors, fuel pump, exhaust and the rest of the minor crap to your 302.
I'd throw the 351 idea out the window, that's an entire build+351 swap parts. I'd guesstimate 8k and up and that's building something mediocre.
My opinion?
Just do a good h/c/i setup on your 302 and start building your engine on the side.
With a 4k budget you may never get an entire build finished. And an unfinished project is worthless.
You may have most of that 4k invested if you added a trick flow top end alone if you include the meter, injectors, fuel pump, exhaust and the rest of the minor crap to your 302.
I'd throw the 351 idea out the window, that's an entire build+351 swap parts. I'd guesstimate 8k and up and that's building something mediocre.
My opinion?
Just do a good h/c/i setup on your 302 and start building your engine on the side.
With a 4k budget you may never get an entire build finished. And an unfinished project is worthless.
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Or as I said earlier, throw a Vortech on it for $3k. Easier install of 100hp, and you're not using it until you hit the go go pedal down. H/C/I and you are talking about all other kinds of parts and tuning needed.
There is no tuning needed for a h/c/i setup. I've had a bunch of h/c/i intake setups, none had anything more than the proper meter and injectors. I'll concede and say if you want to go ahead, but it's not "necessary", especially in a simple hci setup.
And slapping on a vortech is rarely that simple especially on higher mileage cars. Many times it blows out gaskets and causes you to do half the the work of a h/c/i swap anyway. Before you know it your car is leaking oil from every oriface.
Heads/cam/intake at least freshens up the top end of an engine.
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Duc_Stang_95
Member
Throwing boost at an otherwise stock car is ghetto IMO. Feel free to disagree.
Fellas this guy said he came from the ls1 community where horsepower per dollar is better. He's not used to starting with 170 some odd rwhp so I'm guessing he assumed his $4k would carry him further. That being said like everyone else has mentioned $4k won't get you a ton of power but it can get you a stock type rebuild or a slightly better than stock crate motor. If you're bottom end is fairly good enough and you don't mind having an old azz w new top you could opt for the trickflow topend kit which sells for around $3k and will get you somewhere between 280-300 rear horse, that is of course if your bottom end is good and you have good compression such.
My car is very high mileage odometer says 33k oil change says 333k wasn't told that when I bought it. I understand the need for supporting parts this thread is about an engine build not a car build. I'm thinking I'm going to get a f4te 351w and build it on the side while I'm still able to drive the car and do odds an ends in between that I'd like such as 5lugs disk brakes etc... I understand I just spent 1500 in rest o interior parts and still need a few more. Remember ENGINE BUILD NOT CAR BUILD THREAD
Build the 351. Go with at least 185cc heads,good cam,and EFI system. Preferably a stroker(408). But do remember stock trans is forfeit if you do. I personally like the new TFS205cc 11r heads. They have top end valvetrain pieces otb. Have a custom cam ground. And for an intake I recommend either a Super Vic EFI with an elbow or tfs r box. You'll need a new hood for clearance. All said and done expect 10k for the engine and 2-4 for incidentals
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