Just as the title suggest...Needs to be put into the 9's on spray...Needs to be able to be driven on the street...Like to the track, home, and on nice days when I need to go and adjust a chevy guys attitude lol...Its not going to be a daily driver more of a toy...auto or manual...Some opinons would be greatly appreciated.
Trying To Put A 3v Into The 9's On Spary.
- Thread starter iwannagoreallyfast
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timjimmy
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Automatic with a 3000+ RPM stall torque converter, billet input shaft, 3.73s, forged stroker kit, and the Ford Racing heads, intake, cams, and throttle body kit. Single piece drive shaft and forged aluminum 15s with sticky tires. Then, replace the rear suspension to actually hook up on the launch. I hope you have some serious cash saved up.
I have a nitrous kit and all thee tubing for a direct port set up...payment from workk preformed for someone who went fored inducted. Gears i have laying up in my attic, they are 4.10s...i will be doing everything except the headss myself...susspension is gonna be the biggest cost for me...i plan on using an old iorn block...do you think i should or stick with aluminum
timjimmy
Active Member
That depends on which block it is. If it's an iron block out of an '02 or so Cobra, you'd be good to go. But if it '05 and up you'd want to stay aluminum. The newer iron blocks didn't keep the strength. But you'd have even more costs swapping an iron block. I'd keep the factory aluminum block and give it a crankshaft girdle along with the forged internals.
timjimmy
Active Member
As for the 4.10s, you may want to do some math and figure out RPM and tire size to reach an expected overall speed. Unless you have pretty tall tires, you may run out of RPM if you're into the 9s.
timjimmy
Active Member
You'll also need axles and subframe connectors. Weld on, not bolt on. Bolt ons have a little bit of play under extreme load and that leads to weakened structural integrity and a shorter lifespan. Injectors and a fuel pump are obviously a necessity as well.
Well, on the street I will prolly run some 18's for just cruising and stuff on some low pros prolly around 10 inch wide in the rear...Sub frame connectors I definately figured that....Do you think 3.73's would be suffecient...I would like to keep the aluminum for weight. I just thought that with im figuring a 300 shot (direct port) I would have to go to a iorn block for strength...But if the aluminum block be able to take the beating ill keep it..Im planning on over building the rotating assembly with livernoise internals that are rated at over a 1000 and i think the crank is rated at 1300hp...I can't remeber exactly...I know its high...I don't think ima be making a 1000hp...Im not looking at dyno numbers I just want driveability and a quarter mile terror...Lets face it who can honestly run a 150-170mph on the interstate...If I could top a 140 on the speedo and do a quarter in high 9's i'd be satisfied...
timjimmy
Active Member
I ran the numbers, and with 4.10s, a 27.5" outer tire diameter, and the 1:1 fourth gear ratio of the 5R55S transmission, at 140 MPH you're looking at just over 7000 RPM, not taking into account and torque converter slippage. Based on what you want, I'd either get a slightly oversized tire, say 30" diameter, or build the engine to exceed 7500 RPM. A 30" tire drops you down to 6400 RPM. That's the safer route. Yes, the numbers for the rotating assembly sound correct. Different factors can have a large affect on the aluminum block's strength. Most people with agree that the factory block will support around 650 horsepower, but Blowby Racing sells a billet crankshaft girdle that increases that limit to around 1000 horsepower. While I have no experience using girdles on the modular 3V, I can say they work great on older Chevy engines. The theory is sound, but there's an inherrant risk to everything. Another thing to consider is whether or not you NEED the extra couple of cubic inches you'd gain by boring the cylinders, which thins and weakens the cylinder walls. Or, you can avoid the entire situation by shopping around for a built short block, either iron or aluminum, that will give you the strength that you're looking for.
3.73s i would take or have you heqrd anything about the 3.90s from motive...blow by racing is who i planed on talking to once i start swiping the debit card....they are by far the best..im not going to lie i can afford to do this but im a penny pincher..l do it right be i do my own labor...no offense to any engine builder..i believe though if you build your motor know what your doing you know its right....anyone can drop (even if it takes a while) 10 to 15gs and have something fast but for me its more about showing i did it myself and creatted something amazing and can be proud of...
Thatnks for gear ideas though
Thatnks for gear ideas though
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timjimmy
Active Member
3.73 puts you at 6400 RPM whereas 3.90 is 6700 with a 27.5" tire. Looking into what specific tire you'd want to run may help you make a decision. It may be difficult to find a slick that's that small. There's nothing wrong with trying not to waste money. I can respect doing the work yourself, too. I'm not one to ever pay somebody else to do anything that I can.
timjimmy
Active Member
That doesn't sound unreasonable as far as the rotating assembly is concerned, but that's the point where you start having issues with valve float and need to get into lightweight, high strength valves and springs, which will tack another $2000 or so onto the build. I'd avoid it, because it isn't really going to give you much more than extra expense and some bragging rights.
pete_05_gt
Member
- Feb 23, 2014
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i would go 4.10's im running them with 20" wheels and 315/40 in the rear and have plenty of rpm's im not a math guru but even with my stock 17's i had enough rpm but I'm also using a stock tr3650 may not help you much but I put out there for you
timjimmy
Active Member
315/40R20 is a slightly taller tire than stock. Just short of 30", so they'll run a slightly lower RPM.
timjimmy
Active Member
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