Madmike, You Are A Bad Influence And An Alabama Crazy @$$

@madmike1157 , I am balls deep in this 4R70W swap since my C6 decided to start slipping horribly out of no where. After cramming the huge b itch up in there, I find out I cannot reuse the C6 engine plate (wishful thinking, considering they share the same bellhousing bolt pattern). My question is this. The starter bolt holes do not match between the C6 engine plate, and the 4R70W bellhousing. That makes me assume my starter will no longer bolt up and work on the current flex plate? Of course it is zero degrees out (about 40 in the garage with my propane heater), so I am trying to research whether I should continue this venture, or throw in the towel and put in a T5 and try to sell off this big heavy assed auto. I cant seem to find where any other flex plate sizes are available, so if the current one doesnt work, I have no idea where to go from here.
 
Last edited:
  • Sponsors (?)


Alright, well $130 later I THINK I have the right flexplate and block plate to make this thing work. I still dont know for sure about the starter, but I will find out when I get there. I am hoping I dont have to pull the trans all the way back out to access the flex plate bolts, cause its a wrestling match with a T Rex to fit that thing in past the pinch weld between the fire wall and the trans tunnel. P.S. I beat the piss out the the tunnel with a BFH to gain some clearance and still had to ratchet strap the trans in cause it was so tight. This is after cutting off my brand new exhaust cause I couldnt get it out once the new trans was crammed in place. I will say this, once this fiasco is behind me, this is going to be one fun truck. I put a new carb on it a month ago, and it runs smooth and strong. So strong that I burnt up the old C6 trans in fact. The fluid came out nearly black, so it was only a matter of time anyway.
 
Alright, well $130 later I THINK I have the right flexplate and block plate to make this thing work. I still dont know for sure about the starter, but I will find out when I get there. I am hoping I dont have to pull the trans all the way back out to access the flex plate bolts, cause its a wrestling match with a T Rex to fit that thing in past the pinch weld between the fire wall and the trans tunnel. P.S. I beat the **** out the the tunnel with a BFH to gain some clearance and still had to ratchet strap the trans in cause it was so tight. This is after cutting off my brand new exhaust cause I couldnt get it out once the new trans was crammed in place. I will say this, once this fiasco is behind me, this is going to be one fun truck. I put a new carb on it a month ago, and it runs smooth and strong. So strong that I burnt up the old C6 trans in fact. The fluid came out nearly black, so it was only a matter of time anyway.

Aww........... stop being a crybaby b itch.;)
What's the difference between what you had, and what you had to get?

I knew that I had to get a 164 tooth flywheel. Mine is from a F150 w/ a 300 in it. Don't know if it'll work just yet, my crank is at the machine shop. BFH? I had to cut and extend the trans tunnel on the driver side to create the necessary room for the shifter, so don't feel all isolated and s hit because something from a completely different car just didn't bolt right in.:stick:

What do I need to do?...Come up there and slap the p iss outta you?:nonono:
 
Yeah, pretty much. Its too damn cold to be going through this BS. You made it sound like this puppy would bolt right up in place of the C6, you grumpy old man. All I am doing is letting you spend my money and make my decisions for me, you might as well get to work after you slap me. Its too bad the C6 didnt end up lasting a couple more months or this could actually be somewhat fun. I was a little frustrated earlier, and honestly not sure it was meant to be, but then I finally found an F150 forum where someone had done the swap and gave a couple part numbers I needed. Maybe MadMike's crazy suggestion could actually work??!!!
 
Oh, and I needed a flex plate that allowed a torque converter with an 11.38" bolt pattern to bolt up, instead of the current 10.something". The block plate is not wide enough around the starter area, so I had to order one that I THINK is going to fit. Not sure why that didnt come with the transmission, but whatevs. Figure while Im in there now, might as well replace the rear main seal, so I threw that in the virtual cart as well.
 
Oh, and I needed a flex plate that allowed a torque converter with an 11.38" bolt pattern to bolt up, instead of the current 10.something". The block plate is not wide enough around the starter area, so I had to order one that I THINK is going to fit. Not sure why that didnt come with the transmission, but whatevs. Figure while Im in there now, might as well replace the rear main seal, so I threw that in the virtual cart as well.
forgot to ask.

what engine did your new flexplate come from?
 
forgot to ask.

what engine did your new flexplate come from?

The guy with the F150 with my engine/trans combo used a Pioneer FRA-205 flexplate from an '88 Crown Vic with a 351W. His truck is running and driving, so lets hope it works for my application. I will see if the bolt holes line up with the converter before actually installing it, and if it doesnt work I will take it back and sell the truck to the highest bidder!
 
Boom, the engine plate is right, the flexplate is right, and the big assed trans is back up in its spot. I have all the bell housing bolts torqued, but still need to secure the torque converter to the flexplate. Then its on to sort out the cross member, wiring, and hook up my cooler lines (already bought and installed them on the truck, just need to hook them up to the trans). Hey @madmike1157 , any idea if it matters the order of the lines as far as fluid flow, top versus bottom? Oh, and I guess I dont know for sure if the starter is going to work or not just yet.

Edit: Nevermind, Google is my friend. The top is the return.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Boom, the engine plate is right, the flexplate is right, and the big assed trans is back up in its spot. I have all the bell housing bolts torqued, but still need to secure the torque converter to the flexplate. Then its on to sort out the cross member, wiring, and hook up my cooler lines (already bought and installed them on the truck, just need to hook them up to the trans). Hey @madmike1157 , any idea if it matters the order of the lines as far as fluid flow, top versus bottom? Oh, and I guess I dont know for sure if the starter is going to work or not just yet.

Edit: Nevermind, Google is my friend. The top is the return.

You kill me.:nonono:

You edited the post after you answered you own question, then didn't bother to untag me.

You Iowa guys............:banana:
 
So I FINALLY about have this trans swap accomplished. Got all the wiring done (installed a new carb with electric choke and mounted the TPS sensor to it), Ran the controller harness into the truck, and got her all filled up (after flushing the old black fluid out of the cooler and lines). Calibrated the TPS sensor, and go to shift it through the gears while still on stands and figure out the 4R70W shifts backward from the C6 I had. When I thought I was in park, I was actually in first. So now I get to crawl under and redo my bracket to get my cable to tug at it the correct way. One of these days this puppy will drive again, and then I can go hacking it apart installing my drop kit. In any event, I just wanted to post that I still believe @madmike1157 is a bad influence.
 
So I FINALLY about have this trans swap accomplished. Got all the wiring done (installed a new carb with electric choke and mounted the TPS sensor to it), Ran the controller harness into the truck, and got her all filled up (after flushing the old black fluid out of the cooler and lines). Calibrated the TPS sensor, and go to shift it through the gears while still on stands and figure out the 4R70W shifts backward from the C6 I had. When I thought I was in park, I was actually in first. So now I get to crawl under and redo my bracket to get my cable to tug at it the correct way. One of these days this puppy will drive again, and then I can go hacking it apart installing my drop kit. In any event, I just wanted to post that I still believe @madmike1157 is a bad influence.

Huh......maybe I can influence you to read an instruction manual first.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Sure... Why not change water to wine while you're at it. :O_o:
That's what I'm sayin'

Imagine the goofy assed "island of misfit toys" this guy has in his kids rooms.

** Christmas eve,....BlueStallion assembling JR's (Blue pony) Turbo man robot.

"What the hell???? what kind of stupid robot has a left hand on the right arm, and a right hand on the left arm?? This has to be Madmikes fault".
 
That's what I'm sayin'

Imagine the goofy assed "island of misfit toys" this guy has in his kids rooms.

** Christmas eve,....BlueStallion assembling JR's (Blue pony) Turbo man robot.

"What the hell???? what kind of stupid robot has a left hand on the right arm, and a right hand on the left arm?? This has to be Madmikes fault".


Well... There is a precedent. :shrug:
 
I have welded on well over 100 old gas tanks and have never had any trouble what so ever. I wash them out with water followed by a solution of PurplePower and water and weld away. The only one I have ever seen blow up was after a guy cleaned it with brake cleaner (dumbass) and he blew his eyebrows clean off, neat trick if you ask me!
Friend of mine cut one in half and ran around on fire like Ricky bobby. Still has carhart burned into his neck!

You'll shoot your eye out kid!!
 
I wish I had kept up with this thread better because I could have saved you the hassle of learning the hard way your flex plate wouldn't work.
I plan on doing this in my '84 F150 but I'll be using a 4R70W from behind a 302 Explorer/Mountaineer. Can you tell me how much it cost between the trans harness, computer, and TPS kit together? I'll probably do this to my car when I break the T5.