Only 60 Ft Lbs On Harmonic Balancer Bolt???????????

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
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I only got about 60 lbs of torque on the bolt.

with my son holding the brakes, car in 5th and the torque setting at 90, the wrench wanted to turn a little bit and the crank moved just a tad but it was as if the bolt was as tight as it would go. I took the setting down in increments of 5 till I got a click and I would only get a click at 60 ft lbs. Manual calls for 70-90 ft lbs

I mean it seems like it's as tight as it would go, or would with the heads on it would probably allow for me to be able to turn it more? I wouldnt think so as the crank felt steady and stable but the bolt seemed maxxed to me..........

???????????
 
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I have been where you are at, there is just too much "give" in the drive train and brakes so about the time you get it all out you need to take another bite with the wrench and loose the loading on the bolt. You can put an impact gun on it but you won't know what the bolt is torqued to unless you keep checking it like you were doing to find the current torque. You can put a stock Fox lug wrench in the starter hole and let it wedge up against the top of the bell housing while you keep the tip positioned in the ring gear which will give you a "locked up" engine to work with but that takes two adults or one adult and one savvy assistant. Another way is the rope in the cylinder trick BUT you must be absolutely certain that both valves in the cylinder are completely closed or you're going to bend a valve-but you don't have the heads on yet. Probably the best way for you is to put two bolts in the dampener pulley holes that stick out enough to put a cheater bar across and wedge it so you can put all of your force into the torque wrench while the cheater bar keeps the engine from turning over. Just be glad you aren't putting in an ARP bolt, it's spec'd at 150'#!
 
Put it in first or reverse, pull up the e-brake as far as it can go, chock all the wheels tight on both sides and keep on cranking till you hear it click. Got mine to 90 pretty easy doing it this way. Just did this about a week ago. Good Luck.
 
I have been where you are at, there is just too much "give" in the drive train and brakes so about the time you get it all out you need to take another bite with the wrench and loose the loading on the bolt. You can put an impact gun on it but you won't know what the bolt is torqued to unless you keep checking it like you were doing to find the current torque. You can put a stock Fox lug wrench in the starter hole and let it wedge up against the top of the bell housing while you keep the tip positioned in the ring gear which will give you a "locked up" engine to work with but that takes two adults or one adult and one savvy assistant. Another way is the rope in the cylinder trick BUT you must be absolutely certain that both valves in the cylinder are completely closed or you're going to bend a valve-but you don't have the heads on yet. Probably the best way for you is to put two bolts in the dampener pulley holes that stick out enough to put a cheater bar across and wedge it so you can put all of your force into the torque wrench while the cheater bar keeps the engine from turning over. Just be glad you aren't putting in an ARP bolt, it's spec'd at 150'#!
yeah i will feel more comfortable using 2 bolts in the balancer holes and trying that method

thanks
 
Put it in first or reverse, pull up the e-brake as far as it can go, chock all the wheels tight on both sides and keep on cranking till you hear it click. Got mine to 90 pretty easy doing it this way. Just did this about a week ago. Good Luck.
yeah but my parking brake doesn't work lol. I had in 5th while my son held the brake so 1st or reverse probably won't make a difference in that regard right?

I will try the method as foxbodies said with the 2 bolts in balancer holes