302 Stock Block Turbo
- Thread starter esr209
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I'm just going to state my opinion/recommendation here. OP I suggest you concentrate on the basics before trying to "rock" with a forced induction setup. If the engine needs a rebuild or you just want to improve performance, go for it. You can rebuild the motor with a good head,cam,intake,carb,long tube headers,ignition,etc and make a very strong street setup. Keep the compression down on the build so you can add a turbo or whatever later. You'll gain expierience and knowledge and have a strong running car.
Make sure the suspension,brakes,trans,etc are up to snuff before worrying about making a bunch of power. These cars can be a handful in near stock form. Of course I know you probably don't care about my rant/opinion but good luck
Make sure the suspension,brakes,trans,etc are up to snuff before worrying about making a bunch of power. These cars can be a handful in near stock form. Of course I know you probably don't care about my rant/opinion but good luck
I'm open to all opinions, and that was my second thought. Possibly just building then engine this summer and next summer go forced induction. I do like that idea, the only thing is I'd have to get a new block next summer for forced induction because I believe I'd be going over the safe power limit of the block with an h/c/i with turbo
A freshly rebuilt 306 with forged internals and forged crank with a truck flow top end will net you at or around 300whp slap a turbo and keep the boost low and you'll be shooting around 410 to the wheels. That's dam fast in these lightweight cars and you'll still be in the realm of the stock block
As long as you don't go to boost insanity you'll be fine with the stock block. The problem with the turbo is that people get greedy and keep running up more and more boost to get more power.
Kurt
Kurt
Like Kurt said you may think you go up 2 lbs here 2 lbs there and meh you be alright you think but that's where you start breaking 
Well at least rebuild the bottom end if anything when you reach the capabilities of the stock block you can swap everything over to a dart block. That's my plan with my car swap everything over to a dart shp block
I agree. A turbo with a good intercooler will get you to 400rwhp. I would get it up to that and leave it. If you spend a whole lot of money on a top end then you will be under utilizing the turbo. Or you could just push it to 500rwhp like I do and experiment.
Kurt
Nitrous is like getting hit in the center of the back with a dead blow hammer. I don't care what any one says, it's worth it.
Kurt
Don't mean to offend you but it seems like you (as we all have at some point) are jumping in over your head trying to turbo a carb'd fox when you don't seem to have a real grasp of either carbs or EFI at a pretty basic level.
I support anyone who shares my hobby and wants to learn and wrench. My only real advice is to read read read and read before you do anything at all.
That's my absolute favorite part about this hobby, you can never stop learning
I support anyone who shares my hobby and wants to learn and wrench. My only real advice is to read read read and read before you do anything at all.
That's my absolute favorite part about this hobby, you can never stop learning
bentley429isBAC
10 Year Member
DesertDawg
Member
- Apr 2, 2014
- 35
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I want to 3rd what tannerc91gt said: 'Don't mean to offend you but it seems like you are jumping in over your head'. All I could offer would be a series of questions to get firm idea of what you want to achieve. Then I noticed your age and thought hmmm maybe handling mods rather than doubling the vehicles horsepower might be a good place to start?
If you start adding up the foxbody knowledge/experience of the frequent posters in just this
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) sub category it is measured in centuries
Properly done, you could get a lot bang for your bucks.
Is that your stock LX hatch in your avatar?
If you start adding up the foxbody knowledge/experience of the frequent posters in just this
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) sub category it is measured in centuries
Properly done, you could get a lot bang for your bucks.
Is that your stock LX hatch in your avatar?
Grabbin' Asphalt
5 Year Member
To the OP, the only reason I'm not putting boost(SC) to my DD is my bottom end has 200,000 miles on it. Granted a compression check was done a year ago and it's really good. But if I go adding boost to a non-freshly built bottom end, I will potentially have air pushing on every possible weak point in gaskets throughout the entire system, WHEREVER they might be. So when adding boost if your bottom end is not ready for it, in freshly rebuilt form, YOU WILL have pressure or blowby, on a weak ring, seal, oil pan gasket, head gasket or any weak point in your system and it will rear it's ugly head. You will have oil and liquids coming out of everywhere 
...as she said 'tonight is bottoms up' 
...as she said 'tonight is bottoms up'
my car don't run right now that's no fairrrrr
