Oil And Filter Choice

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Yeah, my old man was a 3rd generation mechanic and says it's all marketing. You don't want to grab the cheapest out there but for normal everyday driving most filters will do just fine. It's when you start running the engine harder(racing, etc.) when you want to start looking into those heavy duty filters which may cost a little more but you can clearly see they are better built and should withstand better than the cheaper.

I was happy to get a chuckle out of some of the video's on the net however :D

Edit: Changing the filter on a regular basis is the best thing you can do for your engine!

yes, and I havent heard any engine fail due to use fram ( orange can of dead ).
 
I've been using FL1A filters for eons, with that being said I have just recently switched to Wix. If you cut the filters apart and compare them side by side the Wix line uses an actual spring to hold the oil bypass closed where the Ford filter uses a bent piece of metal. The bypass will fail open much sooner on a Ford filter than a Wix.

Interesting. Might just have to switch myself
 
I had few filter for the mustang 5.0 left on the shelf right now ( I had problem in the past where, I hoarder oil and filter ), anyway wix and mobil 1 , mobil 1 is ALOT heavy and very sturdy/tanky filter ( 12k miles oil change rating ), where wix is more for 6k miles oil change, wix will be on the 89 LX tomorrow ( might as well use all up, i dont like storage oil filter any more ), all my mustang 5.0 is running FL1A for rest of it life, I like the idea of going to walmart pick up 10w30 oil and turn around pick up FL1a and walk out the door ( 20 buck oil change, good for 5k miles or 4-6 month ). Here the pix of the wix and mobil 1 for the 5.0
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My dd Volvo has 245,000 miles. I've used a WIX filter and Mobil1 full synth for the last 200,000 miles. Recently switched to their extended interval and now I get a lifter tap when cold. I guess that's why I ususally don't switch from something that's been working fine
 
I use a Wix racing oil filter and at this time Joe Gibbs XP-5 20-50w oil. This will be used for the first 20 passes or so on the new race engine. I also have an engine oil pan heater that gets plugged in for about 2 hrs before the engine is started so that the oil is close to operating temp when the engine is cranked over. It is amazing how much easier the engine rolls over with the oil hot compared to ambient.
 
I use a Wix racing oil filter and at this time Joe Gibbs XP-5 20-50w oil. This will be used for the first 20 passes or so on the new race engine. I also have an engine oil pan heater that gets plugged in for about 2 hrs before the engine is started so that the oil is close to operating temp when the engine is cranked over. It is amazing how much easier the engine rolls over with the oil hot compared to ambient.
I would be careful using the race filters. The micron rating is significantly higher with a race filter than a standard filter. Both housings carry the same burst pressure and are otherwise identical. The only difference is the filter element. From the mouth of one of the Wix reps, the racing filters are more so designed for an engine that sees regular tear downs. A small piece of metal that would otherwise be stopped in a standard filter will pass through a race filter and could do subsequent damage to the engine.
 
I would be careful using the race filters. The micron rating is significantly higher with a race filter than a standard filter. Both housings carry the same burst pressure and are otherwise identical. The only difference is the filter element. From the mouth of one of the Wix reps, the racing filters are more so designed for an engine that sees regular tear downs. A small piece of metal that would otherwise be stopped in a standard filter will pass through a race filter and could do subsequent damage to the engine.
Something to consider then......I will have to talk to the machine shop as that is what was recommended.