Engine Oil From Air Filter Now Runs Horribly
- Thread starter downonmonday
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
I really don't want to derail the thread, but I am extremely interested in this catch can. I am always fighting oil in the intake. I have a Steeda oil seperator (it looks like a water seperator for an air compressor) and it accumulates a huge amount of oil, but even that doesn't get it all. How much oil are you getting in your intake?
Kurt
Sorry Op. I don't do it intentionally.
Kurt - not a lot. I would take the upper off and set it on some thing and there would always be a small puddle, and varnishing my new lower at the time pretty quickly. With the catch can I maybe get 1/4 - 1/3 a cup of oil in it in 3K mi? Around there, its not much. 122K original bottom end. Using the motorcraft pcv screen also.
Edit - I looked up the Steeda. I would fill that one up to the element before a oil change. That one probably separates better judging from he element (mine is basically stainless steel wool), but it does seem to work well, and has a large capacity. Mounting is tricky.
Kurt - not a lot. I would take the upper off and set it on some thing and there would always be a small puddle, and varnishing my new lower at the time pretty quickly. With the catch can I maybe get 1/4 - 1/3 a cup of oil in it in 3K mi? Around there, its not much. 122K original bottom end. Using the motorcraft pcv screen also.
Edit - I looked up the Steeda. I would fill that one up to the element before a oil change. That one probably separates better judging from he element (mine is basically stainless steel wool), but it does seem to work well, and has a large capacity. Mounting is tricky.
Last edited:
The tubing from the air intake is NOT a vent tube. The air flow is from the air intake into the engine and up through the PCV back into the intake. Did you replace the screen below the PCV? Very important. If you are experiencing severe blowby changing the air exchange path is a patch for an engine that needs refreshing. As mentioned oil viscosity isn't your problem.
Thanks for the reply, and to the OP, sorry for the derail. My Steeda one is actually pulling out quite a bit more oil than that. Still looking for a catch all solution to this one.
Kurt
No it's ok, it's all related and educating. But, I did add a K&N breather today and just took her for a test drive. Started off great then I opened her up in the country...and the stuttering and erratic RPM's started again. This time I made it home. So far so good on no oil from the breather, but now I have to figure out why it's erratic when I give it gas. Acts like there's no fuel or misfiring. I don't know anymore. It has only done this once the engine is nice and hot. When it's below 150 it runs awesome.
You can't run a line from the oil filler neck to the throttle body in a forced induction setup. You will pressurize the crankcase with boost. Bye bye engine seals.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Yep, that is why most guys just cap it off and use a breather cap or run the rube to a remove breather or catch can.
Well no more oil issues after installing external breather. BUT now it idles horribly, chokes and pops when I press the accelerator WOT, and the fuel gauge reads 40psi when no load, but once I had the wife hit the accelerator it dropped down to 15-20psi. This thing is falling apart on me in 2 weeks. I'm thinking maybe the fuel pump? But lately there has been more of a fuel smell in the garage than there used to be. I have the big aeromotive pump and the large injectors/rails, etc so it's set up but no fuel/horrible psi. This thing went from fun to pain in the butt.
With the breather and a working PCV you are now sucking a massive amount of un-metered air into the intake so the ECU fuel calculations are useless. How are the system electronics being managed? Is the ECU chipped and are you using a FMU? I suspect there are a couple of things happening that more info would help narrow down the problem. Have you pulled the trouble codes?
I know its been reprogrammed for all the add on through a dyno tune. How do I go about knowing if it's been 'chipped' and what is an FMU? I'm going to take it to the shop this week for codes. I rented a code reader yesterday but it was for 96+ Mustangs, so it wouldn't read my car.
here is a good read on catch can, pcv etc on an SC engine... details his various set ups and final solution...
http://www.w8ji.com/pcv_system.htm
@jAEded how'd you run you lines? both VC's and PCV? etc
Thanks OP, asking in your thread because i think you'll find its your problem/solution...
http://www.w8ji.com/pcv_system.htm
@jAEded how'd you run you lines? both VC's and PCV? etc
Thanks OP, asking in your thread because i think you'll find its your problem/solution...
Last edited:
I know that running a breather does allow un metered air to get into the engine. I have never seen a car where it made any driveability difference whatsoever. It's just not enough un metered air to matter. AT full throttle, it makes no difference, because the PCV valve closes.
Kurt
I'm baffled. I don't want to start throwing money into parts that aren't the culprit. The fuel pump alone is 500 bucks. I can't imagine a dirty MAF causing my fuel pressure to drop while I put it under load?
Similar threads
