Fuel Lines

Putting 5.0 fuel lines in my car and noticed that there is a kink in the soft lines right after it connects to the hard line under the hood. Anyone ever have to replace that soft line? It goes from hard to soft to hard again where it connects to the fuel rail.
 
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Yes and it was a pita. It's soft on the outside but on the inside is a hard plastic line. I messed around with them for a bit and then I bought the Russell braided stainless fuel lines for 5.0 'Stangs (google them-I can never figure out how to add links in here), and they've been great. I wish I did that first.
 
Go to autozone, they have efi lines... It's flexible soft line sold by the foot, but designed for efi pressures.... Cut to length use efi clamps, itll work perfect
 
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Since I'm having no luck on my post.....

I cut off the lock couplings off of the nylon lines in the engine bay at go to the fuel rail.

I have the Russel braided lines that came with the adapters but I need to get the braided lines to the nylon lines....

What connector should I use?

Images are worth quite a bit if possible

I have these lines:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/russell-fuel-line-kit-8793gt.html

And I need to connect them to the nylon fuel line
 
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Unfortunately I am back at school, an hour away from my car. So I will attempt to find supplemental pictures as best I can.

so I bought these rails:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-fuelrail-8693.html#customer-reviews-section

Can I just push in the braided lines into the rail? I don't have the clips...can I get those at a NAPA or autozone/advanced?

These braided lines:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/russell-fuel-line-kit-8793gt.html

I need to connect the braided lines to this:
IMG_2045.jpg




*Not my picture, found it on google*

using this other picture I found:
spring lock coupling.jpg


I have numbers 2-5 on the Russel braided lines...

BUT I cut the female connector (item 1 above) off of the nylon line in the engine bay.

so i have the metal fuel lines to the frame rail, then the soft rubber lines with nylon inner lines until the motor with no connector, just cut off. I have to join that nylon end to the braided lines some way.
Be it using the spring lock couplings, or a barbed connector to AN threaded brass to go directly into the braided line, which would in turn remove the spring lock coupling connection.
 
uhhh... so you cut the female fitting off? I dont know if I would be cobbling together any fuel lines, especially after a gasoline fire. I cant remember how the other end attaches to the hard line.
 
I just looked at my setup and took a couple of pictures. They are just Earl's AN fittings. If I remember correctly the Russell fittings do unscrew. So I just took them to my local speed shop, and got two Earl's AN to hose barb fittings. Don't use any sealant on AN fittings, they are designed to seal without the use of sealant. So I clamped two rubber fuel injection lines onto the hard lines coming out from the "frame", and clamped them right to the two hose barbs that are now coming down out of the bottom of the Russell lines. It's been over a year of daily (and spirited) driving with no problems at all. I don't have a smart phone so it is a PITA to get pictures on the computer but I will put them on later if I get home from work at a decent hour.
 
Awesome thanks.

I do understand that clamps and barbs aren't the correct way to fix them, but it does work.

I may just take it to a shop and have them replace the lines all the way back to the metal lines on the frame. I just trying to find an option that works and gets my car back on the road.
 
The russell braided lines that you posted earlier simply use the stock push in spring loaded connectors. These eliminate the chrome steel factory fuel lines.
I personally don't care for the bbk fuel rail kit due the the rubber hose that they use but that's just me I guess. Neither the fuel rails or these braided lines are going to address your problems with the plastic nylon fuel lines coming from the frame rail
 
Yeah, I have found this out. That was my original thought on the installation.

Are the Russell stainless lines both -6 AN? Or is one a -6 and one a -8?

I seem to have found the correct Earl fittings that I need to solve my issue.

The pictures would still be very useful @Spaz

Thanks guys
 
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